what Racer said

does anyone have a starting point for gearing b4.1... I currently run 13.5 and am going fully boosted 17.5. I run tight indoor, OCRC thanks

Should I use the standard setup with the +8mm chassis? If so, which Kyosho springs, should I start with?

I was wondering the same thing? I have my +8 chassis in the works, but was just going to keep the FT setup on it and see how it felt. Does anyone have an suggestions or setup sheets?

I honestly would suggest either of these as a starting point:

Ryan Cavalieri's Worlds Setup:
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...eri_Worlds.pdf

or

Ryan Maifield's Reedy Race Setup:
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...Reedy_Race.pdf

If you're gonna go with Kyosho Springs, go for Orange Fronts and Dark Yellow rears.

As far as the setups, I've tried them in several track conditions, and they are both good starting points for all track conditions.

check to see if you have the shims installed on the axle, behind the drive pin. it should be in the manual somewhere. i had a similar problem with a used sc10 i bought. the rear wheels wobbled because the previous owner forgot to put the shims on which did not allow the nut to make contact with the wheel

There's great discussion and much to learn in this thread:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ber-links.html

I ran my B4.1+8" for the second time today. I think I cased or nosed into every other jump and the chassis showed no signs of weakness. My ESC even came loose dring one of the heats. My chassis was built my Matt Trimmings, if you guys are looking for advice on how to build yours make sure you listen to what he has to say.

Thanks again Matt

Its just wire from Walmart. Bought in the speaker area

Got mine at Walmart today http://www.walmart.com/ip/Scosche-14...Spool/14667126...It was in the car speaker area...$12.77 for the 14awg, and you get 50ft...Cant wait to get it in my car...

Good Luck,Racer53

What is the strand count on that wire?

14 gauge is good enough?

Not all wire of the same gauge is created equal. The more strands, and the more pure copper is in those strands, the more current the wire can carry and generally the more flexible it is. That's why TQ wire can be one gauge smaller, but carry DC current equavilent to conventional strand count two gauges higher. Also, the less pure copper, the more overall resistance the piece of wire has, robbing current from your motor and generating heat.

Also, insulation on speaker wire is usually PVC, which can be molded in all sorts of pretty colors, but is not very heat tolerant at all while soldering. RC wire is generally high temp silicone, which also forms a tighter bond against the wire strands, preventing water intrusion which causes corrosion in short order inside wire insulation.

Bottom line, one is meant for indoor, out of the weather use, and the other is spec'd to go the distance in an RC application. But hey, if a pro does it, it MUST be right! It's ALL about the bling!

ETA: Found the link at wallyworld.com WalMart wire, click here Of note is the review that says ".... i compared this product 14 gauge to a true 16 gauge and it is more like 16 not 14. it is much smaller that a original 14". Strand count is not listed. Likely it's also got a high tin content to the wires, making them brittle when exposed to the weather for extended periods (like using your RC car outdoors or in high humidity environments).

If in fact it's more like 16 gauge, well, we only use 16 gauge on 10th and 12th pan cars, and then ONLY very high current rated high spec wire. Anything less and even on 1S, the motor wires'll get hot enough to desolder themselves.


Not trying to crap on anyone's head, but this is low spec, low price speaker wire......there are much better choices for an RC vehicle, both performance and longevity wise.

idk but im pretty sure BK knows what he is doing.

---------------------------

b4-long, good bday present to myself.

http://www.slide.com/r/y1KvEFKB5T9x2...t_embedded_url

He does but is it really Walmart speaker wire..