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Old 08-11-2011 | 08:02 PM
  #6091  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Which is fine if you run a 540 motor, run a 550 and it's not possible. It will slip!
thats funny. I run a 550 and mine doesnt slip.
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Old 08-11-2011 | 09:42 PM
  #6092  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
Neither of the Ryan's are listed Cherry, and those would be considered the "top" 2 AE drivers...
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
R U saying.....
there is
just two Ae Factory drivers ?

So U know , less then 10 that are actually Factory...

So it would be reasonable to consider any factory driver from Ae to be one of the best drivers in the whole world, not just Nats...
Yup, uh huh, sure is, that's EXACTLY what I said..........
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Old 08-11-2011 | 09:46 PM
  #6093  
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Originally Posted by ilanstylz
For those with the clutch basket how far down did you tighten the slipper, as well as those with the FT AE swaybar's which bar do you recommend to use on front/rear for a tight indoor hard-packed clay track? Thanks
Start with the nut flush on the shaft and go from there. Mine is a little looser than flush on a loamy loose dirt low traction surface.
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Old 08-12-2011 | 12:57 AM
  #6094  
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Originally Posted by Odin544
thats funny. I run a 550 and mine doesnt slip.
Mark it with a silver or gold sharpie on the spur, the disc, and the slipper plate. Put it on the carpet and punch it. Check it and then report back. It is possible that it won't slip, but I wouldn't bet on it.

Mine locked down with two extra washers (that means the spring was 100% compressed) slipped with a Balistic 4.5 550 so bad my wife walked in from two rooms away and asked "WHAT is that noise?" to which I replied "The squealing pig?" and she said "YES!" to which I pointed to the truck on the floor that I was doing a radio check on. First time I turned it on and did a radio check, true story.
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Old 08-12-2011 | 01:02 AM
  #6095  
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Originally Posted by Mac The Knife
Draglink? I thought it was the servo arm. I'll have to look again.
I had a problem with both. The servo arm hit the upper plate, the drag link hit the bottom of the transmission case and the front inner belt cover. The ball studs had like .015 sticking out, just enough to let it hang up.

Even after I ground it off flush, it still hits a little, but it's little enough I'm comfortable running it till I get a chance to blow the truck up again. The way it was before it needed to be fixed NOW.
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Old 08-12-2011 | 01:37 AM
  #6096  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
I blew my truck up today, partially so I could say I did it, partially to more closely examine the slipper, and partially because I had some time to kill. Anyway, I wanted to report back what I found.

1. My slipper back plate will slide all the way to the other slipper back plate with the spur removed, so I didn't have the burr other users reported. Anyone who is serious about the SC10 4x4 should just buy the Mac The Knife slipper basket. I'm 100% certain whatever solution AE comes up with will have additional frictional surface area (aka a bigger clutch!), and it you don't want to wait, just buy the darn thing. It's the only aftermarket part that is a must have IMO.


Back to work!
So is there a new rear top shaft that has the machined flats deeper? Here is the stock AE photo and is shows the flats, they would need to to be machined all the way to the largest diameter of the shaft for the outer plate to touch the inner plate...............If yours does that I need to get a hold of one.



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Old 08-12-2011 | 02:03 AM
  #6097  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Which is fine if you run a 540 motor, run a 550 and it's not possible. It will slip!
that is funny mine doenst slipp with 4-poles and with 550's
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Old 08-12-2011 | 02:05 AM
  #6098  
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Originally Posted by ITS ME DAVID
So if I run a 540 1410 3800 I can just tighten the slipper all the way tight to avoid the slipper issue.
I did and I can even back-up the slippernut 1,5 full turns

( out-door hardpacked clay track )
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Old 08-12-2011 | 05:49 AM
  #6099  
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Cool mac the knife

ordered my clutch basket on monday got it in yesterday thanks. if anyone is questioning wether its worth it. well it is i instantly noticed a huge acceleration difference. i had actually ordered some 3s packs because i thought my 4.5 tekin 550 was too slow was going to run the 5.5 on 3s i dont need it anymore i have all my acceleration back. i did not think anything was wrong with my slipper stock setup like most people i had it with hd pad on outside. what a joke it was slipping and causin me not to be consistent on clearing jumps after just running in my yard i could tell the clutch basket is awesome thanks mack i recommend to any one on the fence thinking about it. huge improvement
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Old 08-12-2011 | 06:17 AM
  #6100  
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Originally Posted by 250r
ordered my clutch basket on monday got it in yesterday thanks. if anyone is questioning wether its worth it. well it is i instantly noticed a huge acceleration difference. i had actually ordered some 3s packs because i thought my 4.5 tekin 550 was too slow was going to run the 5.5 on 3s
Just a quick note, neither of those motors are rated for 3s.... run it like that at your own risk... (Double check Tekin's web site if you don't believe me....)
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Old 08-12-2011 | 06:44 AM
  #6101  
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i have the 4.5 on 2s and the 5.5 is a lrp which on there site says 7-11 volts i had a ballistic 5.5 in my jammin scrt ran it on 3s from the day it came out to the day the sc10 4x4 came out. never had one problem. as far as the lrp goes i had the 4.5 in my sc10 lasted three packs on seven volts. the rotor magnet spun on the shaft i sent it back two months ago called ae monday had them swap it for the 5.5 thanks for the warning
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Old 08-12-2011 | 07:06 AM
  #6102  
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Originally Posted by ITS ME DAVID
So if I run a 540 1410 3800 I can just tighten the slipper all the way tight to avoid the slipper issue.
Mine's tightened to 4mm (quite far away from full lockage) and it doesn't slip a single bit.

Guess the Castle motor is a perfect fit for this truck.
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Old 08-12-2011 | 07:21 AM
  #6103  
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any one have a inside line on when the new tekin 4 poles will be out? i called tekin and they are very tight lipped about it saying they dont have a estimated time.
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Old 08-12-2011 | 07:26 AM
  #6104  
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Originally Posted by BulldogSRT
So is there a new rear top shaft that has the machined flats deeper?
Can't say for sure. With the Mac The Knife slipper basket installed, the outer slipper backing plate comes up right near where the first shoulder is machined at the end of the threads. With no spur, you can move it at least 0.250" past that.

My claim to fame used to be getting Losi kits where at least one of axles were mismachined (no holes, or no threads), maybe you just got a bum one.

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Old 08-12-2011 | 07:30 AM
  #6105  
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For those with the clutch basket how far down did you tighten the slipper, as well as those with the FT AE swaybar's which bar do you recommend to use on front/rear for a tight indoor hard-packed clay track? Thanks
I'm running a 4.5 550 motor with high torque rotor. I have one thread showing outside the nut. Slips for approx 5 feet.

Like mentioned before, start w/ the nut flush and go from there.

Running a 2.0 bar on both ends, yellow springs up front.

The yellow springs were my best tuning change to date. It made the truck more stable going into turns as the rear end doesn't come unsettled as easily.
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