2LikesTekno Conversions Thread
, all i know is that i've seen a plastic spur on an 8ightE but it was a Losi conv kit which obviously has the E motor / diff mount and doesn't have mech brakes.
08-07-2011, 05:16 PM
#7428
anyone else have problems with the long shank pinions snapping off teeth? on my second run with my MBX5T tekno v3 conversion, a tooth completely snapped off. the pinion literally only had about 10 minutes of run time at the most. kinda bummed that i spent $7 more for it when i discovered i can run a regular mod 1 pinion.
08-07-2011, 06:29 PM
#7429
anyone else have problems with the long shank pinions snapping off teeth? on my second run with my MBX5T tekno v3 conversion, a tooth completely snapped off. the pinion literally only had about 10 minutes of run time at the most. kinda bummed that i spent $7 more for it when i discovered i can run a regular mod 1 pinion.
08-07-2011, 09:57 PM
#7430
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08-07-2011, 10:24 PM
#7432
i have mine set so it moves the motor mount forward. i just bought the long pinion because everywhere i read said you had to use them. oh well, now i know i don't need to.
08-08-2011, 05:47 AM
#7433
help with d8 conversion please
Wow! long thread, getting a D8 and a Tekno v4 converson kit, still up in the air on direct drive vs clutch bell set-up, mostly bash but rarely race,lots of street beatings. I have a Castle 2650 to go into it, seems a bit large compared to most people liking the lower kv motors and more battery. If I stick with the 2650 what count lipo would be recommended for the driving that I do, using a MMM. Also if I decide to get the clutch bell set-up, would like gearing suggestions THANKS !! 
oh yeah, mech brakes ?!?
08-08-2011, 10:57 AM
#7434
So I had my first race with the Mugen Tekno V4 and the car was on rails. Felt like a slot car. Very stable. I qualified 4th at RCX Chicago in Pro Buggy. I have never run that fast and consistent... EVER.
Unfortunately, I was the only electric in the A Main and they ran a 25 minute main (after saying it was 20 minutes initially). I had to put a 6s 4000 pack in the car when I normally run a 6s 2650 and it made my set up drive like a drunk donkey with roller skates on in the main. My two year old Hobby City 6s 4000 pack with a weak cell dumped at the 23 minute mark too. Owell...
Loving the car though. I am a believer.
Unfortunately, I was the only electric in the A Main and they ran a 25 minute main (after saying it was 20 minutes initially). I had to put a 6s 4000 pack in the car when I normally run a 6s 2650 and it made my set up drive like a drunk donkey with roller skates on in the main. My two year old Hobby City 6s 4000 pack with a weak cell dumped at the 23 minute mark too. Owell...
Loving the car though. I am a believer.
08-08-2011, 01:17 PM
#7435
Alright this question is on the 8ight 2.0 V4. Directions say to use the rear motor mount slots for standard pinion/motor brake setups. Any other combination will use the front slots. Are the directions wrong? I'm using mechanical brakes and was hoping to use standard pinions since I own a bunch of those already. But I can't mount the motor in the forward position because it hits the brakes. Check it out...
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08-08-2011, 03:11 PM
#7437
Alright this question is on the 8ight 2.0 V4. Directions say to use the rear motor mount slots for standard pinion/motor brake setups. Any other combination will use the front slots. Are the directions wrong? I'm using mechanical brakes and was hoping to use standard pinions since I own a bunch of those already. But I can't mount the motor in the forward position because it hits the brakes. Check it out...
LS or clutch are your options.I'd go with a 15 or 16.
08-08-2011, 03:30 PM
#7438
Wow! long thread, getting a D8 and a Tekno v4 converson kit, still up in the air on direct drive vs clutch bell set-up, mostly bash but rarely race,lots of street beatings. I have a Castle 2650 to go into it, seems a bit large compared to most people liking the lower kv motors and more battery. If I stick with the 2650 what count lipo would be recommended for the driving that I do, using a MMM. Also if I decide to get the clutch bell set-up, would like gearing suggestions THANKS !! oh yeah, mech brakes ?!?
Whether to run clutch or DD is personal preference. Traktion Drive is great for racing but the only benefit when bashing will be driveline protection as you wont benefit a great deal from the improved traction. I would probably keep it simple and stick with DD.
Cant help with gearing as i'm not familiar with D8's.
So I had my first race with the Mugen Tekno V4 and the car was on rails. Felt like a slot car. Very stable. I qualified 4th at RCX Chicago in Pro Buggy. I have never run that fast and consistent... EVER.
Unfortunately, I was the only electric in the A Main and they ran a 25 minute main (after saying it was 20 minutes initially). I had to put a 6s 4000 pack in the car when I normally run a 6s 2650 and it made my set up drive like a drunk donkey with roller skates on in the main. My two year old Hobby City 6s 4000 pack with a weak cell dumped at the 23 minute mark too. Owell...
Loving the car though. I am a believer.
Unfortunately, I was the only electric in the A Main and they ran a 25 minute main (after saying it was 20 minutes initially). I had to put a 6s 4000 pack in the car when I normally run a 6s 2650 and it made my set up drive like a drunk donkey with roller skates on in the main. My two year old Hobby City 6s 4000 pack with a weak cell dumped at the 23 minute mark too. Owell...
Loving the car though. I am a believer.
Shame about the long final
. For a 25 minute main i would stick with a set up that runs between 10 - 15 mins and factor in a pack change. We have about 15 e buggies and only run 10 min quals / finals but in E truggy we run with the nitros so have 20 - 30 min finals. We do a pack change at 10 minutes and i came 3rd in the A main last week (1st out of 3 in e truggy), so even with a long pit stop it is still possible to place well. I guess it does depend on how tight the field is but i always count on the fact that nitros flame and it usually pays off.
08-08-2011, 11:42 PM
#7439
I can run against nitros for 25 minutes on 2s 8000mah x2 for 4s saddle pack easy with no batt change and love hearing the nitro guys cry while I take 1st and only come off the track @ 3.7v per cell (TP 35c 8000mah 2s)
I do gear low when forced to run with the nitros, I go down to 46/15 from 44/17
My car only weighs 7lbs. 12oz. in that setup and is very balanced left to right with a 51% front weight bias.
I use either an RX8/1900 or an MMP/1800 with TraktionDrive
I run a 8 2.0B with a very custom chassis that offers a custom layout and wheelbase that no one has out of carbon fiber
I do gear low when forced to run with the nitros, I go down to 46/15 from 44/17
My car only weighs 7lbs. 12oz. in that setup and is very balanced left to right with a 51% front weight bias.
I use either an RX8/1900 or an MMP/1800 with TraktionDrive
I run a 8 2.0B with a very custom chassis that offers a custom layout and wheelbase that no one has out of carbon fiber
08-09-2011, 08:34 AM
#7440
I am running pretty much the stock setup. I changed the diff oils to 10 7 3 I believe. Only other change was dropping anti-squat to one down on the rear suspension arm carrier (the front one in the rear). Shock oils 35 front 30 rear. Stock springs and pistons. Normally run a 6s 2650 pack.
The track was pretty small, so I ran a 5s 2650 for the qualifiers geared 14/44 with a 1400kv motor. I didn't have a 5s pack big enough for the main, so I opted for a 6s 4000 pack. I knew it would make 20 minutes easily, but when I got up on the stand they were like the main is going to be 25 minutes! WTF? I probably could have made it if the pack was newer, but it has a weak cell and hardly ever run it longer than 15 minutes. More of a practice truggy pack.
Crazy thing was my buddy offered me his 6s 4500 nanotech with one run on it. Would have easily made it. It was smaller/lighter too than my 6s 4000. I just didn't feel like soldering. Also, my rx8 died when I went out to practice before the mains so I wound up spending the 1.5 hour break swapping ESCs out and didn't have time to fix the setup. A battery swap wouldn't have worked at that race with the level of Pro's running. Adam Drake won. I was just stoked on the qualifying position even though I got stomped on in the main.
The track was pretty small, so I ran a 5s 2650 for the qualifiers geared 14/44 with a 1400kv motor. I didn't have a 5s pack big enough for the main, so I opted for a 6s 4000 pack. I knew it would make 20 minutes easily, but when I got up on the stand they were like the main is going to be 25 minutes! WTF? I probably could have made it if the pack was newer, but it has a weak cell and hardly ever run it longer than 15 minutes. More of a practice truggy pack.
Crazy thing was my buddy offered me his 6s 4500 nanotech with one run on it. Would have easily made it. It was smaller/lighter too than my 6s 4000. I just didn't feel like soldering. Also, my rx8 died when I went out to practice before the mains so I wound up spending the 1.5 hour break swapping ESCs out and didn't have time to fix the setup. A battery swap wouldn't have worked at that race with the level of Pro's running. Adam Drake won. I was just stoked on the qualifying position even though I got stomped on in the main.
The 2650kv will be fine with 4S, bit of a handful for racing on tight tracks but large tracks or bashing it will be good.
Whether to run clutch or DD is personal preference. Traktion Drive is great for racing but the only benefit when bashing will be driveline protection as you wont benefit a great deal from the improved traction. I would probably keep it simple and stick with DD.
Cant help with gearing as i'm not familiar with D8's.
Nice work, What set up are you running?
Shame about the long final. For a 25 minute main i would stick with a set up that runs between 10 - 15 mins and factor in a pack change.
We have about 15 e buggies and only run 10 min quals / finals but in E truggy we run with the nitros so have 20 - 30 min finals. We do a pack change at 10 minutes and i came 3rd in the A main last week (1st out of 3 in e truggy), so even with a long pit stop it is still possible to place well. I guess it does depend on how tight the field is but i always count on the fact that nitros flame and it usually pays off.
Whether to run clutch or DD is personal preference. Traktion Drive is great for racing but the only benefit when bashing will be driveline protection as you wont benefit a great deal from the improved traction. I would probably keep it simple and stick with DD.
Cant help with gearing as i'm not familiar with D8's.
Nice work, What set up are you running?
Shame about the long final
. For a 25 minute main i would stick with a set up that runs between 10 - 15 mins and factor in a pack change. We have about 15 e buggies and only run 10 min quals / finals but in E truggy we run with the nitros so have 20 - 30 min finals. We do a pack change at 10 minutes and i came 3rd in the A main last week (1st out of 3 in e truggy), so even with a long pit stop it is still possible to place well. I guess it does depend on how tight the field is but i always count on the fact that nitros flame and it usually pays off.