hm i have checked it few times and looks like is ok... But for me is tight. I mean have no experience with electric in nitro is simpler that's why asking... How to check it?

not much difference from a nitro to electric belt, the idea (like the diff really) is to reach that point where the belt is loose enough without jumping or turning.

I usually don't have problems with chassis tweak. To check tweak it must be done on blocks placed on a perfectly flat and clean surface. The blocks must be placed where there are no screw heads as well. Always check with no motor or battery installed. Playing with the order in which the screws are tightened can help. Also make sure the servo is flush with or slightly above the chassis.


Thicker oil will give more on power steering. At least this is what I have found typically my setups understeer according to other team drivers that try them.

Does anyone know the exact height difference between a black ballstud and a silver ballstud? The reason I ask is because some setups ask for a silver in front for the outer camber link but the silver is too long and rubs on the driveshaft.

I assume it is less than 0.5mm or I can't think why people don't use a black with a shim.

Thanks,

Neal

Thanks, long one moves 5 mm now and is on manual settings, rear moves 2.5 mm and had to loose it one teeth.

Nice work this past weekend at Paved Nats...looks like your cars were working really well!

I would love to see the final setups you guys were running!

0.75mm I think. The main difference is the length of the thread however. The silver one has a longer thread.

Not certain of the exact measurement, but a black ballstud with a 1mm shim is about the same, so that seems correct.

Both "silver"(tall) and "black"(short) ball studs are available in a variety of thread lengths.

Cheers guys, i will try a black ballstud with a 1mm shim since I have no short silvers, and I dont want to dremel them all down.

Thanks,

Neal

Thanks! The cars were very good in all three classes. The plan is to have setups for the winning 17.5 and 13.5 cars and my mod car by tomorrow afternoon.

Hello Rick

Are you not running 10.5t class in US at all?

Olly-

10.5 motors were moved under modified a few years back here in the US. Not very many people run it these days, mostly 13.5 and 17.5 motors outside of Modified.

ok thanks, I see there is also some movement on the 13.5t here in Europe, but nothing in 17.5t, here our std class is still 10.5t for the moment.

As a matter, do you see much difference between the 10.5t and 13.5t with variable timing, or are you using blinky only in 13.5t and 17.5t?

I run a TC6 in Vintage Trans Am but, I am suffering from a lack of steering, full left to full right. With the wider wheels/tires required for VTA, the inside of the front wheels will rub where the shock mounts to the A-arm. Need to move the shocks to the inside mount (on the A-arm). Wondering how this will affect handling, and what can be done to compensate? Thanks for any info.

Is it that the rims are too wide or the offset is wrong for the car? If it's the offset, you can use wheel spacers or find hex adapters that have additional offset.