I know what you mean, my car made sparks against the wall twice on Saturday when my front wheel rubbed up against it, but I was pushing it really hard, otherwise with the right amount of power I made it around there with no issues. I found later on that I didn't have to brake at the V turn and onto the straight, but it took a lot of practice. I was there for at least 7 hours on Saturday, but split practice among my 3 rides.

Unfortunately it's impossible for me to make it out for the Weds club races, only Saturdays. Are we the only remnants of those who still drive B4s?

Looks like it. Every wednesday I race against the rb5's and 22s, im the only one.

Saw whole bunch of b4.1s over the w/e at wcrc. 1st time I've seen the number of 4.1s equal to that of 22s.

So its time to upgrade my rtr motor and esc, going with the tekin rs pro and motor combo. Will I feel a big difference going to 10.5t or should I go with 8.5t?

The 3300kv Reedy motor is in between a 10.5 and 13.5. 10.5 should be plenty of power, but if you're confident enough with your skills (and depending on your track's classes) 8.5 should be OK. Most folks here run 10.5/13.5, while the Mod class folks run 8.5.

One thing you'll notice right away when you go sensored is how smooth the power delivery is at low speeds. You'll love it.

Anyone?

My bad , made a mistake ...


Use 1/2 oz to 1 oz on rear suspension mount...

Matt , what body fits your extended chassis ?

Yea, can't wait to see/feel the difference, tired of cogging around low speed turns. One of the 22 guys with 13.5t actually surprised that I was able to keep pace with him in my stock rtr...

Does anyone know if the team drivers ever run these? FT Aluminum Hub Tower C, graphite

They use them quite often. Reedy Race, Hotrod Shootout and other races if conditions call for it. It's a tuning aid.

Rear Camber links are the rear turnbuckles essentially, where they connect to the car. Any adjustment to ball stud locations or height on the back end will change your rear camber link length or position

Are they better suited for high bite conditions then?

No in most cases they will be used in a low bite situation. Not so say they cant be used in high bite scenario. By running the lowered C hub towers you soften the rear of the car producing more roll.

They are actually used in low-bite conditions. Cav used them on his T4.1 at the Shootout and the Reedy Race which was a med bite track. You use them in conjunction with the sanded down rear brace. Instructions are included with the towers.

I do have them, and have since they were only available on AE's site. What is frustrating about them is, the ballstud seems to come loose on tracks that seem to have a lot more turns one way than the other. The little aluminum lock nut vibrates loose and the ballstud starts moving around and that's no good. Would like to find some tiny lock washers and use the tiny flat nuts from AE with a drop of loctite to see if both sides will stay tight. Any idea's?