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Old 07-24-2011 | 02:34 PM
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It should be in the manual, check teamassociated.com if you dont have one.
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Old 07-24-2011 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Asharus
I spoke too soon. I was replacing my bumper tonight and found one of the threads in the top plate stripped. Luckily I had a spare from my SC10.
Looks like I broke part #2, a front A-arm. Yesterday, I cut the corner at the end of a straight too sharp and caught the pipe (I think I hit the nail, since that part of the pipe was raised a little).

The shop only had carbon arms in stock so I replaced both sides. The stock FT arms looked like they were plastic. Is this correct? Which arms do you guys prefer?

Edit: Yep, stock FT arms are plastic.
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Old 07-24-2011 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Asharus
Looks like I broke part #2, a front A-arm. Yesterday, I cut the corner at the end of a straight too sharp and caught the pipe (I think I hit the nail, since that part of the pipe was raised a little).

The shop only had carbon arms in stock so I replaced both sides. The stock FT arms looked like they were plastic. Is this correct? Which arms do you guys prefer?

Edit: Yep, stock FT arms are plastic.
Most guy's are running the regular plastic arms. It makes the car a little more forgiving and a little more grip. It'll be fine with the carbons though.
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Old 07-24-2011 | 03:22 PM
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The carbon arms are used by some team drivers in high-traction or high-heat situations to help take away some bite. Cav runs them a lot, most recently on his Worlds car. The arms don't flex as much as the standard arms.
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Old 07-24-2011 | 03:24 PM
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Even though the .1 plastics slop out faster they are more forgiving. AE FT plastics are a running change so even if you prefer the carbon parts you can't order them anymore. Finding them on your LHS wall is about the only way to get them.
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Old 07-24-2011 | 03:28 PM
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Most people Iknow at OC/RC run the carbon front arms with the carbon top deck. Works very werll for high bite, high heat conditions. The B4.1 arms tend to get a little squishy when the temps rise.
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Old 07-24-2011 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by racer1812
Even though the .1 plastics slop out faster they are more forgiving. AE FT plastics are a running change so even if you prefer the carbon parts you can't order them anymore. Finding them on your LHS wall is about the only way to get them.
Actually a shopout here just got a whole bunch of carbon front arms in stock. And they are a new mold as well. Where the carbon arms before had so much flashing on them out of the package that you had to carve on them with an x-acto for 10 min just fit them on he car. The new ones I just picked are nice and clean molds.
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Old 07-24-2011 | 03:50 PM
  #4253  
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
Actually a shopout here just got a whole bunch of carbon front arms in stock. And they are a new mold as well. Where the carbon arms before had so much flashing on them out of the package that you had to carve on them with an x-acto for 10 min just fit them on he car. The new ones I just picked are nice and clean molds.
thats good to hear they will still make them.
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Old 07-24-2011 | 04:24 PM
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Alright Associated guru's.. I built my B4.1 FT to kit specs, and the car is dialed. I am looking for a little bit more turn-in but don't wanna sacrifice rear bite.. Any suggestions?? Thanks
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Old 07-24-2011 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jspurgin
Alright Associated guru's.. I built my B4.1 FT to kit specs, and the car is dialed. I am looking for a little bit more turn-in but don't wanna sacrifice rear bite.. Any suggestions?? Thanks
What tires and surface do you run on?
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Old 07-24-2011 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69
What tires and surface do you run on?
Jconcepts Flipouts, Red Clay...
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Old 07-24-2011 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jspurgin
Jconcepts Flipouts, Red Clay...
lengthen the front linkages to the middle hole on the block

Last edited by idrummerboy13; 07-24-2011 at 07:35 PM.
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Old 07-24-2011 | 08:38 PM
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hey, does any one have a good set up for the new LRP speed control. the SXX comp. i am runnig a trinity duo 3 17.5 in the timming class. so gearing and boost set up would be nice ! thanks guys!
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Old 07-24-2011 | 08:45 PM
  #4259  
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
Actually a shopout here just got a whole bunch of carbon front arms in stock. And they are a new mold as well. Where the carbon arms before had so much flashing on them out of the package that you had to carve on them with an x-acto for 10 min just fit them on he car. The new ones I just picked are nice and clean molds.
Originally Posted by Jmuck69
thats good to hear they will still make them.
I still question if these are "old stock" simply due to the fact that the part number is the same. An AE rep would have to clarify.

What I REALLY REALLY want to find is a shop that has a stash of steering bell crank parts that are in the carbon material!! Some say that these parts were ALWAYS the same plastic and they are WRONG!
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Old 07-24-2011 | 08:56 PM
  #4260  
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also WHITE Lighting dry teflon lub is nce .. that was tone of the team tricks we use tricks back in the day for the tc3 gears in the diff.. its a wet teflon based lube.. u put like 4 drops on the main gear it 4 different parts so it equal( make sure it doesnt run in the diff) then u spin and work it in and when it drys it coats the gear in teflon.. super free,quiet and less friction..



Originally Posted by idrummerboy13
so guys should i crack open the diff and put lube on them or are they fine running dry? thanks
they work fine dry but some sound terrible dry, a 50 weight shock oil works best, pledge works but kind of wears of and the sound comes back.[/QUOTE]
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