Try 15/62, sensored only mode, 4Deg. timing. If you want any more speed then add a few more degrees timing. 150-160 deg. after 6-7 min.
I tried 12/62, motor was a slug and ran hot. 14/62 and it was ok with 20-30 deg. timing adv. 15/62 only needed 4 deg. to wake it up. I haven't found the need to make it any faster. This motor is very responsive to timing advance.

Saddle Packs on SC10 4X4?

I was wondering if anyone has tried running saddle packs on their truck yet? I was thinking one on the left and on the right and then moving he rest of the electronics around

I tried search on here and came up with nothing

-TB

Does anyone know if the new hard coated shocks will be like the stock shocks or like the rc8 shocks in terms of how they build? I sure hope they will be like the 1/8 shocks!

Same as the stock shocks just hard coated.

I believe a pro racer did that, supposedly worked pretty good. One of the members here I think was going to try it.

clutch basket ordered at 6:15pm today, shipping notification from paypal at 7:20pm...awesome service, kudos MacTheKnife.

Wasn't it Maifield that did it? And he had the packs shoved all the way forward, no?

On a truck that seems to lack rear traction that doesn't seem like the best course of action...but, he's a pro and probably knows better than ThunderbirdJunkie That being said, wasn't that in that race across the pond that was like half pavement, partial turf that looked like what you'd find on a minigolf course, and super hard packed dirt?

Uh huh, sure he knows better then you TBJ lol........

Thanks Cameron I'm not really a fan of this shock design.

My sc10 4x4 is in the white and gold body shell. My buddy's is in the silver and yellow body shell. Here's proof of how much abuse it can take. After two days of this, the only damage is a bent front CVD shaft and one torn body mount. I'm pretty much a newbie to off road. This is footage of the 1st day. 2nd day there is much less abuse and I got much better at those jumps. Footage is not avail yet.

http://youtu.be/rz1NM8C8ldc
http://youtu.be/gYpJ7IEc22k

Please don't take that as a knock on you, I just meant I'm eagerly awaiting that basket!!!! I really wanna get that truck back to running, I miss it... I even picked up a new set of HT and regular pads to load it up with! Brand new gears set aside, in packages. Kinda like when I first got the 4x!!

What gearing are you running? Today was my first day with my sc104x4 and im trying the 540 set-up. Ive been doing alot of gearing testing started with a 21 and ended at a 15/93 and my temps stopped going down it appeared after 6 minutes of driving hard they are at 180-185.
Im running an lrp x12 octa 5.5 with an optional 12.5mm rotor, im going to try the 13mm rotor(didnt realize there was one when i ordered the 12.5mm rotor)
Its super fast and still plenty of torque until it gets hot.
Got a pair of associated fans i may install in front of the motor but would have to do some dremeling.

No LRP? Please explain?
JT

Found the answer to my own question elsewhere after chasing some links. In case anyone else needs a reference to how different weight diff oils affect 4x4 performance:

DIFF OIL
THICKNESS CHARACTERISTICS

Front
Thinner
• Increases steering into corners (off-power)
• If oil is too thin the steering may become inconsistent,
especially it can lose forward traction (and steering)
during acceleration out of corners
Thicker
• Increases stability into corners during braking
• Increases steering on-power at corner exit


Center
Thinner
• Front wheels unload more during acceleration
• Decreases on-power steering (reduces oversteer)
• Easier to drive on rough tracks
• If a high-power engine is used you could waste too
much power and sometime “cook” the oil in the center
differential because it “overloads”
• More off-power steering
Thicker
• More all-wheel drive effect
• Better acceleration
• Increases on-power steering (reduces understeer)
• Better suited on high-bite, smooth tracks
• Car can be more nervous to drive especially if a high
power engine is used - you might need to be smooth on
the throttle


Rear
Thinner
• Increases cornering traction
• Increases steering into corner
Thicker
• Decreases rear traction while cornering
• Reduces wheelspin

im running a tekin sc4x 5.5 and rx8. im geared 14/62. thunder power 65c 5300m 2s race batteries.

i have a sc10 2wd with an rs and 10.5, and to me that truck smacks my sc10 4x4 motor in the mouth. it's faster, and it can clear the jumps better. a 540 can should not be smacking a 550 can in the mouth so easily, let alone a 10.5 vs a 5.5.

currently i have a significant amount of timing...i think 90 or 100 timing advance, and i am on throttle profile 5.

when i first called tekin and complained my motor was slow, they told me to turn the timing on the motor all the way to 100, since it only represents 100% of 30 degrees timing. so say if i set the timing to 85, it would only be 85% of 30 degrees. i did that and it's a bit faster, but it seems like it has no "ummmph."

so i called them again. they told me i could have a soft rotor. they said that they currently have some 13mm rotors set to be released, but they don't have a date yet. the new rotors are designed different than the current ones, and they are slightly bigger. they said that we will be able to change rotors on our own in the future, but not at the moment. they suggested two things.

1. turn the timing back to the default starting and ending rpm, which should be 5443 rpm starting and 20016 ending.
2. the motor comes with 12 degrees of timing from the factory. the tech told me how to adjust the timing on the motor manually, and he advised me to set it back to 0 degrees.

this stuff kind of makes me upset. what's the point of having so much adjustable settings if your equipment can not handle it? to me it defeats the purpose of timing advance if i have to not use it or set it to default settings to get it to actually work. wow...

does anyone have any suggestions on gearing or esc settings? i am thinking about going up to a 15t pinion since a lot of people are running a 15/62 on 5.5 in this thread. you guys think if i pulled the timing off the esc instead of the motor and went up a tooth on the pinion it would help?