Thanks for the plug!

In regards to the Mcmaster Carr o-rings, I did get some (in both materials) but haven't had a chance to try them. I'll be rebuilding this weekend and I'll throw those in there. From other conversations I have seen around them, they may cause a little friction if 2 are used, however I can't confirm that.

Also interesting note, I received a Slash 4x4 on trade and I took one of the shocks apart, and it had blue groved o-rings in it. Not sure the sizes but that maybe an option as well.

Yeah, I have some spurs, lots of alternate pinions. Will definitely need to get some shock rebuild bits, and some different weight oils etc. Might try out those Kyosho grooved o-rings too. All good advice. Thanks everyone!

I am just curious as to what gearing would be good to run on my t4. i have an lrp spx esc and a tekin 13.5 motor. i am currently running a 75/25. motor seems to be getting a little hotter than i like. any info would help.
thanks

Hot hot? What does it temp at after a typical run?

I haven't put a temp gun on it, but if I put my finger on it for about twenty to thirty seconds its too hot to touch

I know neither are T4s but I run 75/30 on my 13.5 B4.1 and 75/26 on my 17.5 SC10. B4.1 never gets beyond high 130s (maybe it's hit 140 before) and the SC10 is between 150-160 after a 8 min main outdoors. I've seen it go up to 180 though, but I think I was practicing for over 15 mins.

that's not hot. Unless you actually temp it, you just aren't going to be able to tell. "too hot" is right around the 180 degree mark, which will allow you to hold your thumb on the motor for about 1 second, maybe 2 if you are the hulk.

I'm sure Cpt America could do it for 3.

I agree! Captain America is the man... I can't wait for the movie.

You guys have the part number for the Kyosho o-rings?

http://www.shortbusracers.com/2011/0...shock-leaking/

are they any option parts you guys recommend for a b4.1 and how do i get more steering

The only thing I did with my FT was convert the front axles to nuts from button head screws, RPM longshank rod ends on the rear turnbuckles, a lipo ballast in the rear, 1/4 ounce in each rear triangle. That's it.

I replaced the rear ball cups with RPM parts, and that's it.

Proper tires, setup and a little bit of weight (as well as running the battery all the way forward) will help with steering.

The only optional parts I recommend is ceramic diff balls, Kimbrough spur gears and Avid ball bearings. The car is solid. Steering is dependent on many factors such as track surface, car setup, radio settings and etc.