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Old 06-10-2004 | 10:41 PM
  #16  
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Originally posted by Coxy
Much better than the GT7. Way too many of these blew up, but I believe they have fixed it (GT7) now with the larger extra D size cell hanging off the side.

It seems now you get a small speedy, add a large cap to it (Novak style) add a heats shink to it (LRP Style) add a diode to it (Ko Style) and it's now larger than the ESC that were out years and years ago. Oh and now they make them water proof in a gel. Looks like no fixing them when they blow now in that gel case (mtronic style), good plan.

Coxy.
GT7's are rock solid now, over the past months very few have been returned due to faults (maybe just 1).

TC2 was a good speedo except the on/off button can play up, this maybe why the gt7 saw the return of a normal switch.

The power and profiles on the GT7 def out run the TC2.
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Old 06-10-2004 | 11:50 PM
  #17  
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Keyence = Hella reliable !!!

Had mine for 2 years or so, worked absolutely perfect until I (me) reversed battery wires (any speedy would hate this) so i sent it back to manufacture, and a brand new replacement one was sent within weeks at very small cost.

Apart from this, I have never seen a Keyence go up in smoke.
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Old 06-11-2004 | 04:01 AM
  #18  
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Post Sounds like I should keep my....

old Novak T1x then with its 12 or so fets even if it isn't the smallest Esc around lol..

Last edited by Mabuchi540; 06-11-2004 at 04:23 AM.
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Old 06-11-2004 | 06:50 PM
  #19  
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Originally posted by black-knight
GT7's are rock solid now, over the past months very few have been returned due to faults (maybe just 1).

TC2 was a good speedo except the on/off button can play up, this maybe why the gt7 saw the return of a normal switch.

The power and profiles on the GT7 def out run the TC2.
So how do I tell the difference between the 1st and second generation GT7?
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Old 06-11-2004 | 07:01 PM
  #20  
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Originally posted by Glue-Stick
Keyence = Hella reliable !!!

Had mine for 2 years or so, worked absolutely perfect until I (me) reversed battery wires (any speedy would hate this) so i sent it back to manufacture, and a brand new replacement one was sent within weeks at very small cost.

Apart from this, I have never seen a Keyence go up in smoke.
Is that the Zero V Extreme? or A01 or A02?
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Old 06-11-2004 | 07:25 PM
  #21  
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Originally posted by Kennedy
So how do I tell the difference between the 1st and second generation GT7?
Thicker wires on the power cap, smd type diaode and profile #5 is the new default setting. (profile is for mod racing). HEI have been distributing plenty of the revised GT7 for quite some time now.
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Old 06-13-2004 | 12:08 AM
  #22  
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Thanks for all your replies and suggestions.
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Old 06-13-2004 | 01:04 AM
  #23  
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Originally posted by Kennedy
Is that the Zero V Extreme? or A01 or A02?
Zero V Extreme
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Old 06-13-2004 | 09:17 AM
  #24  
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Ive plugged my TC2 into batteries the wrong way before, killed a pack, and its still works flawlessly
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Old 06-16-2004 | 04:35 AM
  #25  
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Yes but dont forget that we r also demanding more current than we ever used when i started racing some time ago now! you u were the gun if you raced with a nine turn black scrc were the packs to have .There will be a few who remember them now we race with 3300s and 6 turn somethings gotta give! Nosram have been the best speedos ive found blow one up under warranty of course and u normally have a replacement under two weeks AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 06-16-2004 | 08:39 PM
  #26  
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heck, there's a few here who remember racing with 1200s and Tamiya's hump packs were the go.

Peak charging those consisted of keeping your chargeleads on until the plastic hump case softened & bubbled...


What's an ESC??
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Old 06-16-2004 | 08:51 PM
  #27  
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Default Re: Quantum Competition 2 ESC Problem

Originally posted by Stonzy
Hi all, I bought a QC2 2 months ago from a shop in HK and i used it for the 1st time last Sunday and all was going well until the 3rd heat when my switch snapped off.
I've fixed that by connecting the 2 wires together so i had no switch which worked fine but then the 5th race i landed very hard on my motor and lost everything. No power to the esc at all....as well with no steering.
When you crash there can be a huge power spike flying thru your electrics.

Our wires are huge, no plug resistance when you hardwire & the motor isn't bothered by spikes and the ESC's FETs can handle heaps of current... so, the common weak point is the soldered interface between ESC's PCB and its surface-mounted FETs or the PCB tracks between FETs & wire.

Think there's enough leeway there for FETs to move in their soldered footholds and short out against something else but the evidence is hard to find. I have inspected many similar charred remains (including a Nosram DomPwr) but the fire is usually hot enough to dislodge other electronic components too.
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Old 06-17-2004 | 05:13 PM
  #28  
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Default Quantum Competition 2

Anyone tried the option of the "World Kit" (2 x Capacitors, & heatsink)

Maybe this would solve any issues????
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