16LikesTamiya F104 Pro!
06-13-2011, 08:04 AM
#5401
hi Jeff this was the first option i put in when i first tried things out i have the 1.3 mm in mine and the rear end was heaps better and i have since been trying other buts and bobs and they all make a big difference with every small adjustments and tips from other people here
BM
06-14-2011, 03:05 PM
#5402
Ok. My new black black F104 is on the way. :-) Along with some Shimitzu and Tamika tires. Some other stuff too. Got a great deal from the guy at TQRC Racing. Free shipping too!!
I'm going to going to Strictly RC Raceway on the 26th to try it out so if any of you local guys are going. I shall see you there. Hoping to take my TC too. Just encase no other F1. Cars turn out. .....
Come out to Strictly 26th June and race your F1 cars. I can pick up some tips off all then. :-)
BM
I'm going to going to Strictly RC Raceway on the 26th to try it out so if any of you local guys are going. I shall see you there. Hoping to take my TC too. Just encase no other F1. Cars turn out. .....
Come out to Strictly 26th June and race your F1 cars. I can pick up some tips off all then. :-)
BM
06-14-2011, 04:49 PM
#5403
hello
i thought the car was pretty good out of the box but i was reading the thread asking questions. I have set mu car up to be running on the Tamiya rubber tires i use a red damper spring the heavy pivot post and 1.3mm t-bar 3 racing kit. tamiya split top deck. i use 20wt oil 3 hole piston and i use the ride hard front springs, my ride height is as standard 5mm as i race on a out door circuit and it has a 60m front straight with a 10 degree right hand sweeper so there is plenty of speed by the end of the straight and a 40 m back straight. and in areas can be a little bumpy for the F1 cars but yet it is a smooth track to if that makes sense
all these great tips i have been getting from the guys from the thread and they have been working a treat
i thought the car was pretty good out of the box but i was reading the thread asking questions. I have set mu car up to be running on the Tamiya rubber tires i use a red damper spring the heavy pivot post and 1.3mm t-bar 3 racing kit. tamiya split top deck. i use 20wt oil 3 hole piston and i use the ride hard front springs, my ride height is as standard 5mm as i race on a out door circuit and it has a 60m front straight with a 10 degree right hand sweeper so there is plenty of speed by the end of the straight and a 40 m back straight. and in areas can be a little bumpy for the F1 cars but yet it is a smooth track to if that makes sense
all these great tips i have been getting from the guys from the thread and they have been working a treat
06-14-2011, 07:18 PM
#5404
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
matt, are you using the center screw on the t-plate? I haven't had a chance to try my car with the new setup yet, (no center screw) so I'm wondering how much I can compensate with the center shock/spring for the extra droop I notice without the center screw and O-ring in place.
06-15-2011, 08:22 AM
#5406
hello
i thought the car was pretty good out of the box but i was reading the thread asking questions. I have set mu car up to be running on the Tamiya rubber tires i use a red damper spring the heavy pivot post and 1.3mm t-bar 3 racing kit. tamiya split top deck. i use 20wt oil 3 hole piston and i use the ride hard front springs, my ride height is as standard 5mm as i race on a out door circuit and it has a 60m front straight with a 10 degree right hand sweeper so there is plenty of speed by the end of the straight and a 40 m back straight. and in areas can be a little bumpy for the F1 cars but yet it is a smooth track to if that makes sense
all these great tips i have been getting from the guys from the thread and they have been working a treat
i thought the car was pretty good out of the box but i was reading the thread asking questions. I have set mu car up to be running on the Tamiya rubber tires i use a red damper spring the heavy pivot post and 1.3mm t-bar 3 racing kit. tamiya split top deck. i use 20wt oil 3 hole piston and i use the ride hard front springs, my ride height is as standard 5mm as i race on a out door circuit and it has a 60m front straight with a 10 degree right hand sweeper so there is plenty of speed by the end of the straight and a 40 m back straight. and in areas can be a little bumpy for the F1 cars but yet it is a smooth track to if that makes sense
all these great tips i have been getting from the guys from the thread and they have been working a treat
I take it to be prity soft?
Also, and excuse the ignorance here about the car. I don't get it until the weekend
But does a softer T Bar or loosenning the centre screw give more droop to the rear then...... is that why I've heard people doing that?BM
Last edited by British Menace; 06-15-2011 at 08:24 AM. Reason: Spelling
06-15-2011, 08:44 AM
#5407
a softer T-bar will give you more rear grip and the center screw is for fine tuning it aids in making it stiffer or allow the t-bar to flex more, this is my experience anyway.
i don't know if it will give you more droop the 2 tracks i race at require the center screw to be adjust differently.
i don't know if it will give you more droop the 2 tracks i race at require the center screw to be adjust differently.
06-15-2011, 08:57 AM
#5408
Here is a good starting point for Foam Carpet:
http://rcf1blog.blogspot.com/2011/03...tup-sheet.html
Jimmy
http://rcf1blog.blogspot.com/2011/03...tup-sheet.html
Jimmy
thanks for the tips on set up for carpet my car was on rails so much rear grip the only thing was i lacked a little speed.
TQ and finish 3rd overall i was running my sports tuned and the some of the others 10.5 and 17.5
i think i will put my brushless in 13.5 for next time
06-15-2011, 01:27 PM
#5409
The kit t bar and the "soft" t bar don't allow much articulation, and generally make the car kinda sucky. To remedy this, locally, we started removing the center adjusting screw and let the t bar flop free. To maintain ride height, a foam donut was glued on the same spot as the screw hole (Associated TC5 shock rebuilds have the perfect foam.). This made the car much better.
Now with the "high traction" tbar, which has the U shaped cutout, this is not 100% necessary. If I where racing non Tamiya races/rules, I would probably run the kit or soft tbar with no screw. I think the car makes more traction without the screw. The "high traction" tbar is close, but I like no screw even better.
Sometimes, when you want to reduce the car from over rotating, the soft T bar with the screw adjusted loosely can be helpful. That would be good for big tracks with a lot of sweeping corners, not really any hairpins.
06-15-2011, 01:36 PM
#5410
hi
thanks for the tips on set up for carpet my car was on rails so much rear grip the only thing was i lacked a little speed.
TQ and finish 3rd overall i was running my sports tuned and the some of the others 10.5 and 17.5
i think i will put my brushless in 13.5 for next time
thanks for the tips on set up for carpet my car was on rails so much rear grip the only thing was i lacked a little speed.
TQ and finish 3rd overall i was running my sports tuned and the some of the others 10.5 and 17.5
i think i will put my brushless in 13.5 for next time
. I know Rob's car was fast at our TCS Race and appeared easy to drive.Jimmy
06-15-2011, 03:28 PM
#5411
Droop is not really what that mod is concerned with.
The kit t bar and the "soft" t bar don't allow much articulation, and generally make the car kinda sucky. To remedy this, locally, we started removing the center adjusting screw and let the t bar flop free. To maintain ride height, a foam donut was glued on the same spot as the screw hole (Associated TC5 shock rebuilds have the perfect foam.). This made the car much better.
Now with the "high traction" tbar, which has the U shaped cutout, this is not 100% necessary. If I where racing non Tamiya races/rules, I would probably run the kit or soft tbar with no screw. I think the car makes more traction without the screw. The "high traction" tbar is close, but I like no screw even better.
Sometimes, when you want to reduce the car from over rotating, the soft T bar with the screw adjusted loosely can be helpful. That would be good for big tracks with a lot of sweeping corners, not really any hairpins.
The kit t bar and the "soft" t bar don't allow much articulation, and generally make the car kinda sucky. To remedy this, locally, we started removing the center adjusting screw and let the t bar flop free. To maintain ride height, a foam donut was glued on the same spot as the screw hole (Associated TC5 shock rebuilds have the perfect foam.). This made the car much better.
Now with the "high traction" tbar, which has the U shaped cutout, this is not 100% necessary. If I where racing non Tamiya races/rules, I would probably run the kit or soft tbar with no screw. I think the car makes more traction without the screw. The "high traction" tbar is close, but I like no screw even better.
Sometimes, when you want to reduce the car from over rotating, the soft T bar with the screw adjusted loosely can be helpful. That would be good for big tracks with a lot of sweeping corners, not really any hairpins.
Also, was meaning to ask before. The Tamiya 'Red' spring some are using. Is that the 10Lb one? I seen a few 'Red' springs and wasn't sure. There was a 6Lb one too??
Which do you use.
Also. 20wt shock in 3 hole pistons is VERY light. I've never used such thin oil. Has anyone tried more holes and slightly thicker oil? Was thinking of 4 hole and 3 wt??
Using such thin oil wouldn't you get some "seapage" around the shock piston?
Lots of questions I know, but I've never had a Tamiya car, never an F1 or pan car and ran Nitro TC for over 15 years ... lol
You could say I'm comming out of my comfort zone ! hahaha
BM
06-15-2011, 07:50 PM
#5412
Isee ..... thanks. Good info' to have. May get the High Traction one to compare to the "screw out" stock item.
Also, was meaning to ask before. The Tamiya 'Red' spring some are using. Is that the 10Lb one? I seen a few 'Red' springs and wasn't sure. There was a 6Lb one too??
Which do you use.
Also. 20wt shock in 3 hole pistons is VERY light. I've never used such thin oil. Has anyone tried more holes and slightly thicker oil? Was thinking of 4 hole and 3 wt??
Using such thin oil wouldn't you get some "seapage" around the shock piston?
Lots of questions I know, but I've never had a Tamiya car, never an F1 or pan car and ran Nitro TC for over 15 years ... lol
You could say I'm comming out of my comfort zone ! hahaha
BM
Also, was meaning to ask before. The Tamiya 'Red' spring some are using. Is that the 10Lb one? I seen a few 'Red' springs and wasn't sure. There was a 6Lb one too??
Which do you use.
Also. 20wt shock in 3 hole pistons is VERY light. I've never used such thin oil. Has anyone tried more holes and slightly thicker oil? Was thinking of 4 hole and 3 wt??
Using such thin oil wouldn't you get some "seapage" around the shock piston?
Lots of questions I know, but I've never had a Tamiya car, never an F1 or pan car and ran Nitro TC for over 15 years ... lol
You could say I'm comming out of my comfort zone ! hahaha
BM
The spring that a lot of people also like is off one of the older mini cars, it's silver and has a ton of coils, pretty soft.
I run the shock pretty thin on asphalt.
06-15-2011, 08:59 PM
#5414
Ok. Thank you for the info'. It will help in trying this car out alot!
Any of you able to go to Strictly Rc on the 26th June?
I'll be in the area and will have my car with me to try out.
BM
Any of you able to go to Strictly Rc on the 26th June?
I'll be in the area and will have my car with me to try out.
BM