Brad, I personally run no weight at Indy. I tried it both ways and its faster without weight mostly because the car jumps and lands much better. My car is plenty planted, too planted in fact.

I have done it. You can only go about 2mm over, any more and you have to space the slipper too far over and the last plate won't engage the top shaft. I used some 2mm axial spacers and longer screws. Screws are asc9833, you will have to cut them down a bit. You also need to space the slipper assembly out with some axle spacers too. It's not too much work, and I liked how it felt.

Ran my B4.1 in mod buggy for the first time tonight after putting the 22 up on the shelf... and lost 2.5 laps ... car was just aweful. I have a TON of work to do to get this car feeling as good as I got my 22 feeling.

Nice, so I'm not the only one that thinks the AE gears are not accurate. Thanks for sharing...I'll have to order one up.

Did you run the shorty pack in it all night?

No.. ran a heavy full sized 6000 in the main... slightly better, but I think its too light still. tons of work!

On another topic, if I want to run inline front axles, do I only need to buy the steering blocks? or do i need to buy different axles as well?

( http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Right-T4-B4-GT )

that pic is less than a year old.

You will need the axles and the blocks.

?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Axle-Blue-B4-2
?

Can the instructions for the optional C hubs be found online?

here it is.

what I was asking a while back is should the default starting point be with 1 washer after you sand the u brace flat or none.

Thanks for that. I'll try it tomorrow and see what I can come up with.

Thanks!

I would love to hear what you think.

IMO without knowing the exact production reasons the older u brace was lower but still had the height of about 1 spacer so I would think that should be the starting point. I could see even going as far as adding 2 if you sanded it flat to get close to the older style with 1 spacer (This would put you about 1 spacer below flat plastic on a new u brace)?

But I don't know and am just guessing that's why I was asking.

The Ubrace wasn't lower. This is a modifcation so that the angle and length of the upper camber link stays the same, when changing to the graphite ball stud mounts, over the hubs. Because the graphite ones are 2mm shorter, you need to lower the inner ballstud location by 2mm to match. Which is why they recommend grinding it down.

somebody tell me if i have this completely wrong please

Another question... its been SO long since I have worked on or built a B4... changing anti-squat? do i need a hingpin brace set, or are shims used? What part number should i be looking for?