The new chassis doesn't have a mold plug in the bottom either, so if the chassis has that its an older b4 chassis.

Can someone post a link for me of shims I need to shim a arms and other things for when the car creates slop? Thanks.

I'M too lazy to measure either but I've never heard of this so until my laziness fades I'll believe this is not correct

Just go to amain and search shim...used to always use the shims that trinity/reedy would sell for electric motors, I believe they were 1/8". I know Kyosho sells 3mm shims, those would work too.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...3x5mm-Shim-Set

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Motor-Shim-Kit

I believe shimming the arms really doesnt help much at all. With the new plastic all the hinge pin holes in the arms get egg shaped a slop out side to side.

I find it much easier to to just spent about $15 for new front and rear arms and caster blocks. Maybe another $3 on the inner hinge pin set. Then just replace the black washers on the steering knuckle and new ones at the rear hubs.

http://www.xfactorystore.com/storeDDP.htm#torx

Look at first item on the page.

Thank you

Hi,

Just got a B4.1 RTR, really excited to be back in the world of RC after 20 yrs. Had a Kyosho optima mid back in the 80's...

Naturally, now I'm looking for lipo batteries and charger to get started. Any recommendations? Friend of mine is running Hobby people's 7.4v 35c lipo on his slash are they decent enough for a beginner to run?


Thanks!

I personally have 3 SMC 24C batteries 1 of them 4100mah and the other 5200mah and one Dynamite 25C battery 6000mah. The 17.5 SC spec class at my local track calls for 25C max which is the reason I don't run anything higher than 25C. My 2 chargers are a Common Sense AC/DC balance charger and the Venom Pro balance charger. I run these on my B4.1 (13.5) and SC10 (17.5).

^^ Thanks! checked out those, wow didn't know batteries and charger will cost the same (if not more) than the car itself...this is going to be expensive.

It is actually cheaper in the long run. You can get away with one lipo for a club race day. You do not need the endless number of NiCd batteries of yesteryear. One lipo for practice and racing. Lipos are a god-send when it comes to RC racing along with brushless motors!

Yes, you really only need 1 pack per car but I like to have a spare ready just in case.

If you spend a lot of time at the track for practice days, you'll appreciate having two packs, but 1 is all you really need for race days.

i tried searching for this but i saw once while back about cuting the rear brace down to make it flat on the chassis is this a mod that is commonly done or was i reading somthing else?

You might be referring to the the new C towers for the FT rear hubs. It lowers the roll center of the rear to give more traction w/o taking away steering. There is a 2mm raised portion on the rear brace that has to be ground smooth and level to the surrounding brace. This along with the C tower will lower the the rear camber link 2mm.

http://www.teamassociated.com/factor.../details/9873/