RC10B4.1 FT/WC
05-23-2011 | 05:24 PM
#2927
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 97
Anyone ever have this problem on their rack? I had to do this same fix last night. I swear it was fine when I was building it, but after about a week of running it, the servo saver started rubbing against the top plate. We had to dremel a little piece of the top plate to give it some clearance.
05-23-2011 | 07:20 PM
#2929
mxracer458, I think you race at WC/RC, can you suggest a good starting point for gearing (17.5 NT)? Also are guys still running ribbed tires up front? I have not raced stadium truck in a long time. Thanks
05-23-2011 | 07:23 PM
#2930
05-23-2011 | 07:28 PM
#2931
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,474
From: El Mirage, AZ, USA
Kit question
These are just kit questions...The shock bags come with 2 sets of O rings a large and small. The large ones seem too big for the top of the shocks and the small ones seem too big for the bottom of the shock. The manual says nothing about using both O rings at the same time. So I just used the small O rings on the top of the shock.
Also the shock eyelets that hold the shock pivot balls have numbers on them: 2 #3's and 1 and 2 on the other two eyelets. Wondering if those these numbers have any significance
Never mind the large O rings go in the shock spring ride height adjusters duh!
Also the shock eyelets that hold the shock pivot balls have numbers on them: 2 #3's and 1 and 2 on the other two eyelets. Wondering if those these numbers have any significance
Never mind the large O rings go in the shock spring ride height adjusters duh!
05-23-2011 | 07:34 PM
#2932
These are just kit questions...The shock bags come with 2 sets of O rings a large and small. The large ones seem too big for the top of the shocks and the small ones seem too big for the bottom of the shock. The manual says nothing about using both O rings at the same time. So I just used the small O rings on the top of the shock.
Also the shock eyelets that hold the shock pivot balls have numbers on them: 2 #3's and 1 and 2 on the other two eyelets. Wondering if those these numbers have any significance
Also the shock eyelets that hold the shock pivot balls have numbers on them: 2 #3's and 1 and 2 on the other two eyelets. Wondering if those these numbers have any significance
05-23-2011 | 07:48 PM
#2933
i ended up running a 75-31 in nt truck,hopefully ill be there sat and im going to try a 32 maybe.i think my fastest lap was a 21.3
05-23-2011 | 08:04 PM
#2934
05-23-2011 | 10:22 PM
#2936
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,743
From: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Pardon the n00bish question, I just havn't run into this in the past.
Swing Weight.
At what point does the motor position become a problem? I kept hanging teeth until I got the power/temp I was looking for. I ended up at 28/81 (the larger of the two kit spurs) with an X12 13.5 (still coming off the track @ 130-140*). The motor is all the way back and Im not sure if its in my head (or hands for that matter), but the car feels like it's lost something. It could be changing track conditions, but my main question is with it so far back, should I look at running a smaller spur to get the motor more forward?
Swing Weight.
At what point does the motor position become a problem? I kept hanging teeth until I got the power/temp I was looking for. I ended up at 28/81 (the larger of the two kit spurs) with an X12 13.5 (still coming off the track @ 130-140*). The motor is all the way back and Im not sure if its in my head (or hands for that matter), but the car feels like it's lost something. It could be changing track conditions, but my main question is with it so far back, should I look at running a smaller spur to get the motor more forward?
05-24-2011 | 03:59 PM
#2938
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,470
From: Mass.
Picked up a used b4.1 and was amazed at the amount of play in the suspension. And, after doing a search on here, realized I'm not the only one complaining about it. So, I made up some new hardened hinge pins.
The hinge pins I made up are .0015 larger than the stockers and are a much better fit for the arms. They don't eliminate all of the play ( there is still some from the aluminum hub and bearing fit) but tightened things up quite considerably.
If anyone is interested in a full hinge pin set for this car, send me a pm.
The hinge pins I made up are .0015 larger than the stockers and are a much better fit for the arms. They don't eliminate all of the play ( there is still some from the aluminum hub and bearing fit) but tightened things up quite considerably.
If anyone is interested in a full hinge pin set for this car, send me a pm.
05-24-2011 | 04:26 PM
#2939
Picked up a used b4.1 and was amazed at the amount of play in the suspension. And, after doing a search on here, realized I'm not the only one complaining about it. So, I made up some new hardened hinge pins.
The hinge pins I made up are .0015 larger than the stockers and are a much better fit for the arms. They don't eliminate all of the play ( there is still some from the aluminum hub and bearing fit) but tightened things up quite considerably.
Concerning the bearing to aluminum hub bearing fit, I would like to see something like the 1/8 onroad guys have. They use delrin sleeves between the bearing and hubs to eliminate the play and vibration.
If anyone is interested in a full hinge pin set for this car, send me a pm.
The hinge pins I made up are .0015 larger than the stockers and are a much better fit for the arms. They don't eliminate all of the play ( there is still some from the aluminum hub and bearing fit) but tightened things up quite considerably.
Concerning the bearing to aluminum hub bearing fit, I would like to see something like the 1/8 onroad guys have. They use delrin sleeves between the bearing and hubs to eliminate the play and vibration.
If anyone is interested in a full hinge pin set for this car, send me a pm.
05-24-2011 | 06:33 PM
#2940
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,470
From: Mass.
I've got a set of new arms as well, so my findings are not based on some worn out arms.
I know that ballcups have play , which can easily be alleviated by placing a very small piece of foam inside the ball cup. Still moves freely, but removes unwanted up and down play.
I'd also like to know who, in Jmuck's quote of my previous post, wrote the part about the plastic insert in the aluminum hub. Because it wasnt' me.
I know that ballcups have play , which can easily be alleviated by placing a very small piece of foam inside the ball cup. Still moves freely, but removes unwanted up and down play.
I'd also like to know who, in Jmuck's quote of my previous post, wrote the part about the plastic insert in the aluminum hub. Because it wasnt' me.