5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
05-12-2011 | 01:21 PM
#635
I have a few questions, first, my stearing seems to stick to the right a couple degrees of a bit, then returns to straight. It happens intermitenly, and there is no binding in the stearing, or diffs, and im using a brand new xp ds1015. Any thoughts? Secondly, im running the castle 1410 with the hobbywing sc10 esc, I need some tips to make it smoother from a standstill, it studders quite a bit untill it gets its roll on.
05-12-2011 | 01:39 PM
#636
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,143
From: Havasu AZ
I cant get my servo straight either . i tried several times but it always wants to be off one way or the other . in the video he saus to straighten it with the elecroncis or what ever and thats fine and dandy but as soon as i turn it off and back on the arm goes to one side slightly ... i guess im missing something but i cant figure out what . its a hitech servo if it matters and anyone has a suggestion .. oh and the wires reached no problem 
I also had two quality control issues . the front shocks were leaking in the plastic bags and on the car .I was hoping it was residual from AE building them so I wiped em clean and installed them but they still leak and the shock mount studs in that mount to the shock towers wasnt threaded on two of them . I also get a slight cogging or something sometimes that i for the life of me cant figure out . i followed the instrructions when it came to building the trannys and belt drive to the T so im hoping its actually an ESC issue .
BUT OTHERWISE I LOVE THIS TRUCK ITS BADD A**
I also had two quality control issues . the front shocks were leaking in the plastic bags and on the car .I was hoping it was residual from AE building them so I wiped em clean and installed them but they still leak and the shock mount studs in that mount to the shock towers wasnt threaded on two of them . I also get a slight cogging or something sometimes that i for the life of me cant figure out . i followed the instrructions when it came to building the trannys and belt drive to the T so im hoping its actually an ESC issue .
BUT OTHERWISE I LOVE THIS TRUCK ITS BADD A**
All cheaper low end Hitec servos do not center well at all, if you turn your
wheel off center left and let it go, then right and let it go it will center
different both times. Once they are used a while they even get worse, so
if your using a low end Hitec servo there is nothing can be done that is
just the nature of the beast. Now if your using a high end Hitec servo like
a 7955TG and your having that problem I would call Hitec about it because
they have a great customer service department and will take good care of
you.
Good luck & enjoy"
Last edited by Chuck 21; 05-12-2011 at 07:59 PM.
05-12-2011 | 01:42 PM
#637
Tech Adept
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 105
From: North Texas
For those who saw any of my prior post, I was running a VXL with a Tekin SC4x 5.5 and it was sputtering like it had a rev limiter. The only way to attain full speed would be to slowly ease into the throttle on a super long straight. I checked everything and when I changed the ESC the problem finally went away. I would advise that no one use the Slash VXL ESC even though it says that it is compatible. I am now using my 1/8 scale mamba monster and this truck is hauling!! 
05-12-2011 | 01:43 PM
#639
So how does the bleeding on these bladder shocks work?
I read the manual but I'm new to this.
It seems like the bleed port would have to be below the bladder somehow or it wouldn't work.
On an emulsion type shock I'd expect to bleed it simply by extending shaft, filling it all the way and removing air, cranking the cap on fully with bleed port open... then compressing shaft in to where I want it minus whatever preload (rebound?) I want, then putting bleeder screw back in.
But this concept doesn't seem to work once you throw a bladder into the equation. Any input on this? I'm an engineer so I need diagrams and equations, lol.
I read the manual but I'm new to this.
It seems like the bleed port would have to be below the bladder somehow or it wouldn't work.
On an emulsion type shock I'd expect to bleed it simply by extending shaft, filling it all the way and removing air, cranking the cap on fully with bleed port open... then compressing shaft in to where I want it minus whatever preload (rebound?) I want, then putting bleeder screw back in.
But this concept doesn't seem to work once you throw a bladder into the equation. Any input on this? I'm an engineer so I need diagrams and equations, lol.
Coaster, I looked at my shocks and they have a small hole right under the screw. So it appears the small hole is for bleeding bladder type shocks and the screw would be for if you ran them emulsion style I guess.
05-12-2011 | 02:00 PM
#643
Tech Adept
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 105
From: North Texas
05-12-2011 | 02:48 PM
#645
Im loving the orion experience 2 pro. Similar to castle sct but alot smoother and built better. On sale at stormer right now for $99.99!!!! Running it in both 2wd kyosho and ae 4x4.that thing rocks!