good to them on roar but i have a question for all\
How come a hobbywing sensor cable doesnt work out of the packet but a cracked up tekin does... it measures point to point ok.has anybody had this experience????

Nick, please tell me the length of your straigt and the layout of your track, we team hobbywing china will test it to see. but we can only test it with HOBBYWING motors.

regards,
Salton

Hello Sihzeng, can you recommend me a setup for the engine Xerun 17.5 and FW211 to medium track (about 35 meters straight), I can not find a good compromise between speed and temperature.

Thanks

Guys,

I need some advice before testing, I currently run the 119 software on a SP 21.5 to great success but looked to upgrade to the 211 software as I was told it helped reduced temperatures. The issues was that the power plant felt completely different even when the settings were set the same, basically really flat no top end or punch?
Should I alter the gear for the new software? Just wondered if there were some secrets i was missing ;-)

Thanks

Can you post your current settings?

If it's my first test, I'll try the following setting.
FDR:5.8
DDRS:9
BOOST:38
TURBO SLOPE:12
TURBO:22
START RPM:3000
TURBO DELAY: 0.2
BOOST ACC:350

A FAN FOR MOTOR IS A MUST.

Many thanks for response.

The setting of the ESC is very similar and it is this:

DDRS:9
BOOST:40
TURBO SLOPE:18
TURBO:25
START RPM:3000
TURBO DELAY: 0,2
BOOST ACC:300

Fan Yeah Racing tornado

Engine temperature 80°/85° C

The difference is in FDR, I use FDR 6.5 , I follow your advice will lower up to 5.8.

You'll get news after the test

Thanks again

Current settings I am using are as follows:-

DDRS:9
BOOST:30
TURBO SLOPE:18
TURBO:25
START RPM:2000
TURBO DELAY: 0.1
BOOST ACC:550


Thanks

Yup, had a similar problem here.
Brand new HW sensor cable with a brand new Xerun 60A.

ESC kept going into sensorless mode, since the sensor cable was brand new, I didn't suspect it at all and played around for days with different motors and software etc but still had the same problem.

I then buzzed out the new HW sensor cable and it was fine, but then I tugged lightly on the wires and they came right out of the golden pins in the small black plug, they weren't crimped properly.

Anyway, new sensor cable and car/ESC runs fine, brand new HW sensor cable straight into the dustbin.

I noticed with the 60a and 120a its only the blue versions that are approved.. I didnt know there was a difference between the blue speedies and the black ones.. is there a difference?

I have been using my Xerun 60A v2.0 for over a year in my KP09 (and now converted to KP10) 1/5th scale bike with a 13.5T Nosram X11 equivalent at first, and then with an LRP X12 13.5T. The Xerun 60A has always had so strong brakes, I actually had to lower the ATL to around 55 to 60% to keep the bike braking and not crashing from a locked rear wheel skidding around! I was running the 119 program and then switched to 221 when that came out.
Same thing happened when I switched to a Trinity Duo2 17.5T motor (2011 RC Bike Worlds Rules), the last couple of months, running 211, again, with exactly the same setup on the ESC, regarding the brakes. The bike again had lots of brakes and I had to lower the ATL a lot, like before.

Two days ago, I mounted my new Xtreme Stock on my Thunder Tiger SB-5 bike, this time running a Nosram 17.5T (X11 equivalent). I tested it this afternoon and realized the bike has almost no brakes! Well... it feels like the KP10 with ATL lowered to 40%, while I have it setup with exactly the same settings with the Xerun 60A:
drag brake 10%
ddrs level 5
brakeforce 100%
rev. force 100%
initial brake: Drag
neutral 6%

The motor rips quickly and nicely, it has a lovely powerband with the turbo settings set quite high:

Boost 50,
slope 18,
turbo 20,
start rpm 3000,
delay 0.2,
timing acc 150

...and it is very manageable without any signs of overheating or anything. I am running a fan on the Xtreme stock but no cooling to the motor at all.
Still the temps after 10-12 minutes of running are around 60-65C for the motor and a lot lower for the ESC... (Ambient 18-20C).
I switched to the Xtreme stock because it has a smaller footprint than both Xeruns (I also have a 120A V2.0), which would struggle to fit inside the TT SB-5 bike.

So... to recap... is it normal for the Xtreme Stock to have "less" brakes than the Xerun 60A V2.0, or is there something I have missed?

Edit: I must say I run more or less the same FDR on both bikes, around 6.30 to 6.32/1

Benzaah,

More initial brake is could be a good shout and was mentioned by someone else at the club so I'll give it a try. I'm also with you on the not testing full throttle on the bench, I wouldn't usually but I wanted to be sure I knew the real problem.

Salton,

The track is indoor carpet 30m x 15m, see pic below for last weeks layout. The issue was most noticable at the end of the straight and the corner infront of the rostrum.

steliosh,

In some ways good to hear that I'm not the only one with brake issues on an Xtreme although as you are obviously an experienced Hobbywing user I'm now more concerned that there may not be an easy fix...

All, Thank you for your support. As a new Hobbywing user it is great to get help from people here.

Cheers,

Nick

ok guys, we'll run in Brazil Xtreme ESC, with the motor 17.5t Hobbywing, track: medium / locked, which recommendation ESC setup?
Here the temperature is warm (average 30 C) and can be a little cooler in the early stages.
Teh motor is Hobbywing 17.5t 1900kv
Tks!

Nick, I forgot to ask your radio brand and type.
And, did you test the brake performance if your ESC use another FW and what's the result?
Did you test the motor in your hand (not on the track) and also found the delay of brake?

regards,
Salton

Salton,

My radio is a Spektrum Dx6i (Air set) modified with a sprung throttle / brake, works as you would expect with my SXX StockSpec and a GTB before that.

I haven't tried different FW yet although it is on my list, the problem occured the first time I used the ESC. I'm planning to try 119 and maybe one of the Mod versions to see if there is a difference. Can you suggest a particular FW that would be good to try?

I have run the car on its stand, so no load on the wheels and it also shows the same delay from high speed although I'm not really keen on running the car that hard without load as you obviously get very high rpm's.

Cheers,

Nick

Nick, I have tested on hand, with the same setting of you, two different motors, both work fine, very strong and fast response . Will test on track this weekend.

If you have time, please use the standard modify FW such as 090205 to test.
To confirm it is not a hardware problem.