RC10B4.1 FT/WC
#2746
Alright, so im looking at buying a b4.1 FT kit and am wondering what size mod motor i should run, i have a tekin rs pro so i can run anything 10th scale i would want to. i was thinking 8.5 or 6.5 i run LRP x12 motors in my T4 a 17.5 and a 13.5, and in reality ill probably throw in the 13.5 to learn buggy because this will be my first one. but i want it to be fast. very fast. i run indoor high bite clay with a decent straight.
so, should i get the 6.5t or the 8.5t (both would be lrp x12 octawinds)???
so, should i get the 6.5t or the 8.5t (both would be lrp x12 octawinds)???
#2747
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,301
From: Conducting aggressive board meetings at my local track
)
#2748
Just stoppin in to say what's up guys im kinda forced into a 2wd buggy cause no ones runnin 4wd out here so im shelvin my 410 and was going to try out the new losi 22
But fate has forced me into a b4.1 unless I wanted to wait till middle of june so my local hobby store said
so screw that im now on the team associated bandwagon
I set up buggy to the ryan C specs and hopefully will be tryin it out in the next few days
any tips or basic tricks I need to know feel free to let me in on em
thanks guys!
DNF Don
But fate has forced me into a b4.1 unless I wanted to wait till middle of june so my local hobby store said
so screw that im now on the team associated bandwagon
I set up buggy to the ryan C specs and hopefully will be tryin it out in the next few days
any tips or basic tricks I need to know feel free to let me in on em
thanks guys!
DNF Don
#2750
Just stoppin in to say what's up guys im kinda forced into a 2wd buggy cause no ones runnin 4wd out here so im shelvin my 410 and was going to try out the new losi 22
But fate has forced me into a b4.1 unless I wanted to wait till middle of june so my local hobby store said
so screw that im now on the team associated bandwagon
I set up buggy to the ryan C specs and hopefully will be tryin it out in the next few days
any tips or basic tricks I need to know feel free to let me in on em
thanks guys!
DNF Don
But fate has forced me into a b4.1 unless I wanted to wait till middle of june so my local hobby store said
so screw that im now on the team associated bandwagon
I set up buggy to the ryan C specs and hopefully will be tryin it out in the next few days
any tips or basic tricks I need to know feel free to let me in on em
thanks guys!
DNF Don
#2751
Well I think I have them dialed in.
Going to race them for the first time today at SDRC Raceway in San Diego. www.sdrcraceway.com
Should be a fun time. I have a Castle 4600kv motor and a Sidewinder SCT ESC for now. Until I can get some funds for a Tekin 17.5 System. I would rather run the stock class if possible.
I will post updates on my results later but this thread really helped me get it feeling good.
My FT B4.1 is the green lid and the backup B4 is the pink lid



Got the batteries packed and ready to go.
Going to race them for the first time today at SDRC Raceway in San Diego. www.sdrcraceway.com
Should be a fun time. I have a Castle 4600kv motor and a Sidewinder SCT ESC for now. Until I can get some funds for a Tekin 17.5 System. I would rather run the stock class if possible.
I will post updates on my results later but this thread really helped me get it feeling good.
My FT B4.1 is the green lid and the backup B4 is the pink lid



Got the batteries packed and ready to go.
#2753
#2754
I hand lap my rings. I use an old female diff half to hold the rings and a absolutely flat surface such as my granite countertops. You want to sand the ring that is naturally flat. What I mean is look at the ring in profile and you will see a rounded side and flat side. Use the flat side. I use 400 grit paper and spray motor spray on the paper and sand the rings with diff half to hold it in a circular pattern. What your trying to do is eliminate the tiny little pits on the ring surface which can be seen as tiny little brown dots or speckles. it takes a while, but once the brown spots are gone, it's finished. While sanding, use the motor spray to help lubricate the sanding action. When your done, you will have sanding marks in your rings. These are critical for the ceramic balls, but if you use carbide then you will polish the rings further with 600 grit.
#2755
I use an old female diff half to hold the rings and a absolutely flat surface such as my granite countertops. You want to sand the ring that is naturally flat. What I mean is look at the ring in profile and you will see a rounded side and flat side. Use the flat side. I use 400 grit paper and spray motor spray on the paper and sand the rings with diff half to hold it in a circular pattern. What your trying to do is eliminate the tiny little pits on the ring surface which can be seen as tiny little brown dots or speckles. it takes a while, but once the brown spots are gone, it's finished. While sanding, use the motor spray to help lubricate the sanding action. When your done, you will have sanding marks in your rings. These are critical for the ceramic balls, but if you use carbide then you will polish the rings further with 600 grit.
#2756
Everyone seems pretty high on the RPM ball ends. Do they offer a bit tighter tolerance on the ball? I haven't raced my car that much and there already seems to be quite a bit of slop on the connection points with the stock ball ends.
#2757
It never sounds pretty when you use words like diff balls, female halves and lubricate.
#2759
#2760
I like to balance mine using the Du-Bro prop balancer and some balancing clay. After a couple weeks of running them, I re-balance them. It definitely helps on drivetrain and speed.




Cool looking cars tho.
but do you hand lap your own rings? What grit do you go to? Can you see your reflection in them when you are done?