8T 2.0
Nothing really needs to be done. Start with the shock on outer top hole and the camber link in the lower inner hole.
Also make sure to switch your bump steer to UP when running the inclined parts. That is just a setup adjustment to go along with them...
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,015
From: Lakeland, FL
Are you using the inclined spindles with those carriers? You need to use the two pieces as a pair. They cannot be used with the stock plastic spindles. If that's the problem you will need a set of inclined spindles(LOSA1729).
Also make sure to switch your bump steer to UP when running the inclined parts. That is just a setup adjustment to go along with them...
Also make sure to switch your bump steer to UP when running the inclined parts. That is just a setup adjustment to go along with them...

Speaking of the inclined spindle carriers, hopmeup on E-bay has them right now for just under $13 shipped! In case anyone is interested here is a link. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Are you using the inclined spindles with those carriers? You need to use the two pieces as a pair. They cannot be used with the stock plastic spindles. If that's the problem you will need a set of inclined spindles(LOSA1729).
Also make sure to switch your bump steer to UP when running the inclined parts. That is just a setup adjustment to go along with them...
Also make sure to switch your bump steer to UP when running the inclined parts. That is just a setup adjustment to go along with them...

I'm almost done rebuilding my car. I always hate setting the gear mesh and shimming the clutch, it is a pain. I am a perfectionist, so it always takes an hour to get them just right. I have my own method which seems to work for the mesh: 
First, you have to tighten the bottom screws until they are almost tight, but not quite. Then, slide the engine into position, so it is lined up straight on with the spur and has just a tick of play. Then, I hang the rear of the car of the table so I can access the 4 bottom screws. I put a 20 lb dumb bell on the front of the car in order to let me push down on the engine. Now, very carefully, I push down on the engine, and slowly tighten 1 screw, then 2, and then the rest. If the mesh didn't change, I then take out one screw from the bottom at a time to put some threadlock on.
And the clutch bell live happily ever after. The end.

First, you have to tighten the bottom screws until they are almost tight, but not quite. Then, slide the engine into position, so it is lined up straight on with the spur and has just a tick of play. Then, I hang the rear of the car of the table so I can access the 4 bottom screws. I put a 20 lb dumb bell on the front of the car in order to let me push down on the engine. Now, very carefully, I push down on the engine, and slowly tighten 1 screw, then 2, and then the rest. If the mesh didn't change, I then take out one screw from the bottom at a time to put some threadlock on.
And the clutch bell live happily ever after. The end.
I'm almost done rebuilding my car. I always hate setting the gear mesh and shimming the clutch, it is a pain. I am a perfectionist, so it always takes an hour to get them just right. I have my own method which seems to work for the mesh: 
First, you have to tighten the bottom screws until they are almost tight, but not quite. Then, slide the engine into position, so it is lined up straight on with the spur and has just a tick of play. Then, I hang the rear of the car of the table so I can access the 4 bottom screws. I put a 20 lb dumb bell on the front of the car in order to let me push down on the engine. Now, very carefully, I push down on the engine, and slowly tighten 1 screw, then 2, and then the rest. If the mesh didn't change, I then take out one screw from the bottom at a time to put some threadlock on.
And the clutch bell live happily ever after. The end.

First, you have to tighten the bottom screws until they are almost tight, but not quite. Then, slide the engine into position, so it is lined up straight on with the spur and has just a tick of play. Then, I hang the rear of the car of the table so I can access the 4 bottom screws. I put a 20 lb dumb bell on the front of the car in order to let me push down on the engine. Now, very carefully, I push down on the engine, and slowly tighten 1 screw, then 2, and then the rest. If the mesh didn't change, I then take out one screw from the bottom at a time to put some threadlock on.
And the clutch bell live happily ever after. The end.

Okay, thanks, but is there anything specific between the 2 different sets? Where is the incline? Are the stock spindles 0 degree incline?

What annoys me is the lasered lines on the chassis do not make a perfectly set mesh, and causes the cb to be at an angle. Basically, I only set mesh when I get a new clutch bell or spur. Then I just take the top half of the quick change mount off when I need the engine out.




