Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Monster Trucks
Bad tuning on Tmaxx? Help >

Bad tuning on Tmaxx? Help

Community
Wiki Posts
Search

Bad tuning on Tmaxx? Help

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-04-2011 | 06:42 PM
  #1  
Thread Starter
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 38
Default Bad tuning on Tmaxx? Help

I bought a tmaxx and i can get it to run on first couple tries with ex start for about 5 minutes. Once i start to get up o it and rev it up it does great until suddenly it stalls. Then i cant get it started for atleast 10 minutes. It is getting hot, but im not sure exactly how hot. How should i fix this? It runs with a lot of smoke, and i can feel little specs of gas from carburator when running with no air filter. Is there a way to tune it like factroy? The tuning has been moved so much now, im not even sure. It doesnt bog down either when i nail gas, and it idles for a while before quitting too.

Please help
rtbluver is offline  
Old 05-04-2011 | 07:14 PM
  #2  
ckblood05's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,995
From: michigan
Default

Originally Posted by rtbluver
I bought a tmaxx and i can get it to run on first couple tries with ex start for about 5 minutes. Once i start to get up o it and rev it up it does great until suddenly it stalls. Then i cant get it started for atleast 10 minutes. It is getting hot, but im not sure exactly how hot. How should i fix this? It runs with a lot of smoke, and i can feel little specs of gas from carburator when running with no air filter. Is there a way to tune it like factroy? The tuning has been moved so much now, im not even sure. It doesnt bog down either when i nail gas, and it idles for a while before quitting too.

Please help
try putting the hsn 4 turns out from all the way tight. and the lsn flush with carb body. and idle screw about 1mm open. let it warm up, make some passes, then bring it in and do a pinch test with your fuel line. it should rev up in rpm's a little for about 2-3 seconds then the engine should shut off. if it goes longer than 3 seconds, lean the lsn a little. if it shuts off sooner than 2-3 seconds, richen the lsn a little. then make a few more passes and try again. keep an eye on your temps also.
ckblood05 is offline  
Old 05-05-2011 | 03:32 AM
  #3  
Thread Starter
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 38
Default

Originally Posted by ckblood05
try putting the hsn 4 turns out from all the way tight. and the lsn flush with carb body. and idle screw about 1mm open. let it warm up, make some passes, then bring it in and do a pinch test with your fuel line. it should rev up in rpm's a little for about 2-3 seconds then the engine should shut off. if it goes longer than 3 seconds, lean the lsn a little. if it shuts off sooner than 2-3 seconds, richen the lsn a little. then make a few more passes and try again. keep an eye on your temps also.
Where is the Hsn andnlsn located? I know where the (idle knob is. That's on the Carb on the fuel line isn't it?
rtbluver is offline  
Old 05-05-2011 | 08:00 AM
  #4  
ckblood05's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,995
From: michigan
Default

Originally Posted by rtbluver
Where is the Hsn andnlsn located? I know where the (idle knob is. That's on the Carb on the fuel line isn't it?
yea the idle screw is on the side of the carb next to where your fuel line goes to the carb. the lsn is on the other side of the carb. and the hsn is that black knob on top of the carb. tighten both the lsn and hsn in all the way, then back out 4 full turns on the hsn and like 1 1/2 turns on the lsn or flush with the carb body.
ckblood05 is offline  
Old 05-05-2011 | 02:20 PM
  #5  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,147
Default

I hope you did not crank down on them needles...They bend easy making it almost impossible to find a tune. Can't be a gorilla about it if you have to resort to turning them all the way in. I don't recommend doing it but if you have to, you have to..
got_nitro is offline  
Old 05-05-2011 | 02:31 PM
  #6  
ckblood05's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,995
From: michigan
Default

Originally Posted by got_nitro
I hope you did not crank down on them needles...They bend easy making it almost impossible to find a tune. Can't be a gorilla about it if you have to resort to turning them all the way in. I don't recommend doing it but if you have to, you have to..
x2! yea just turn them in until they stop. dont turn them with a lot of force.
ckblood05 is offline  
Old 05-05-2011 | 02:40 PM
  #7  
Thread Starter
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 38
Default

Okay i did all that and now am having more issues. I did that. There is a blue collar on my carbureator by the LSN that is torn. It spits nitro out threre a little and it spits nitro through the air filter spot. I have it tuned to were you guys say and thats my conclusion. Now when i use my ezstart on it, it turns the motor over in like 3 se3cond burst. Not evenm long enough to start it. What does that mean. Please help
rtbluver is offline  
Old 05-05-2011 | 04:04 PM
  #8  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,147
Default

Originally Posted by rtbluver
Okay i did all that and now am having more issues. I did that. There is a blue collar on my carbureator by the LSN that is torn. It spits nitro out threre a little and it spits nitro through the air filter spot. I have it tuned to were you guys say and thats my conclusion. Now when i use my ezstart on it, it turns the motor over in like 3 se3cond burst. Not evenm long enough to start it. What does that mean. Please help
The "blue collar" is called the carb slide boot. No worries if it's ripped, that has nothing to do wheather the engine runs right.

While the EZ start is in, twist it a bit. Sometimes the contacts stop touching each other. That or your battery is not charged.
got_nitro is offline  
Old 05-05-2011 | 07:35 PM
  #9  
Thread Starter
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 38
Default

Originally Posted by got_nitro
The "blue collar" is called the carb slide boot. No worries if it's ripped, that has nothing to do wheather the engine runs right.

While the EZ start is in, twist it a bit. Sometimes the contacts stop touching each other. That or your battery is not charged.
Were all good know. It starts but immediately wants tot ale off. Quick too. So I can't drive it. What do I adjust to make it idle lower and nit take off?
rtbluver is offline  
Old 05-05-2011 | 08:57 PM
  #10  
ckblood05's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,995
From: michigan
Default

Originally Posted by rtbluver
Were all good know. It starts but immediately wants tot ale off. Quick too. So I can't drive it. What do I adjust to make it idle lower and nit take off?
you probably got your idle set to high. its the screw on the side of the carb. the side the exhaust is on. you want like a 1mm gap when you look into the carb.
ckblood05 is offline  
Old 05-05-2011 | 09:00 PM
  #11  
Slash&Blitz's Avatar
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 78
From: Wisconsin
Default

Idle screw
http://www.rocousa.com/Traxxas/idle_stop_screw.jpg

Low Speed needle
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...spd_needle.jpg

High Speed Needle
http://www.carltonhouston.com/galler...serialNumber=1
Slash&Blitz is offline  
Old 05-06-2011 | 03:46 AM
  #12  
Thread Starter
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 38
Default

Thanks, ill play with it some more today.
rtbluver is offline  
Old 05-06-2011 | 05:10 AM
  #13  
Tech Regular
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 269
Default

I would replace the carb boot right away because it can affect your tune, or at least allow dirt to get in the carb slide. The engine probably has air leaks, you should search "engine sealing" before you get too frustrated with it.
trxnut454 is offline  
Old 05-06-2011 | 05:28 AM
  #14  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,147
Default

Originally Posted by trxnut454
I would replace the carb boot right away because it can affect your tune
This is where I would have to disagree.

If any air gets in to the engine via the carb slide, you have a bad slide or a warped housing. Boots are not sealers for air leaks or are they sealed from the factory brand new. Oil from the fuel keeps the slide lubed and "for the most part sealed" in the slide bushing. Any debris that gets on the slide could effect the slide bushing resulting in a leak. Boots are only on there to keep debris out as you mentioned and I agree.
got_nitro is offline  
Old 05-06-2011 | 07:06 AM
  #15  
Tech Regular
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 269
Default

I wouldn't say it's a big problem on most engines, especially with aluminum carbs, but on a trx, anything can happen.
trxnut454 is offline  

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.