I'm thinking of getting a gear diff. The ones that fit are the Spec-R and the Yokomo (both from the BD5), but I'm undecided which one to get.

What are peoples experiences of each of these? Has anyone had leaks, stripped gears, outdrive wear etc?

Price-wise they seem to work out about the same once the alloy outdrives are added to the Spec-R diff.

The Spec R version is fine. Mine doesn't leak, runs smooth and hasn't (so far) needed any maintenance of any kind after a good few hours running (apart from changing oil weight). I run 2k diff oil in for use round Halifax.

I've not had experience of the Yokomo so I could not compare.

Spec R seem to have a good spares backup from Abe Racing and Demon.

I have both spec r and yokomo diffs. Yokomo is a little smoother and leaks a little less, no perceivable difference on the track. Neither is showing any unusual wear.

Fished my TC6 build today and have yet to decide wich body is better for a small twisty track.
I have 3 to choose from since have them sitting home: LTC-R / MazdaSpeed/ R9-R all in lightweight versions. Wich one is the best choice for the car?
( no carpet and no foamies for me)

LTC-R is good for twisty track and mazdaspeed is good for high speed tracks causes is more stable

if the track is low to med traction the R9-R works real well on small tracks. the body offers alittle more downforce at low speeds. if traction is high i would go for the LTC-R

hi,

qtn on spur gear

417 spur gear 111 and 113 does it fit these car?

thanks

hi, im building now my TC6 and there is strange thing, on flat surface like board TC6 looks like tweaked!? when i pushing one corner of the car on the back, front corner going up! I know that is just a little but i thought it should be flat at all. I was building that on flat board so i dont think i made something wrong with that, later was trying to untight screws and tight it again but always one corner is little bit up... mayby 0.2mm. Is that normal????

take the screw out for the motor mount brace and make sure i lines up with the chassis if not i shimmed the mount until it lined up.

make sure that all of the countersunk screws are flush with the chassis, the ones with the letters/#'s have a larger head diameter and can protrude a little. I run a straight edged ruler across the bottom of the chassis to find the high points.

i know what you mean that's why i didn't put that screw with letters... Im re assmebling again and now is better, just will check that motor mount and we'll see how is after...

yeah! is done! but wasn't easy... thanks!
Any way that car is not great to build....

My Tc6 chassis was tweaked from new....
But when i build the kit i checked for tweak at every stage and as soon as i installed the motor mount this seemed to de-tweak the car. Stange as everybody told me to install a grub screw in the motor mount to stop it tweaking the chassis, but installing the proper screw cured the tweak on mine.

I will be purchasing a new chassis in time to rectify this but for now mine is tweak free (until i hit something )

I would say the tweak on my chassis @ the rear left corner near the motor mount is about 0.2 - 0.3mm.

What problems did you have with the build ?

I would go with the Yokomo - It seals nicely and stays dry if it's build correctly ( i built mine with green slime on the seals and gasket ) and is far smoother in operation. You can also notice the change in gear oil more in the Yokomo, i'm not sure wether this is due to it holding a little more oil of the fact its smoother to start with.

I have run a Spec-R diff in my tc6 too but it only managed a 3 min run before destroying the gears. I shimmed it all up and adjusted the gears but it just mullered itself.

Dale if you would like to purchase a Spec-R one i have one here needing a new gearset ?