Cheers Ed, I'll drop the DRRS a couple. I've heard that setting is similar to the 'Feel' on the LRP/Nosram units. I'll post complete setup later on.

Motor's fine, even reaching that temp.

Any chance we could get a "esc setups page" like they do at speed passion, just with the hobbywing settings?

+1

For posting setups and explanations only

how is this x12 can be hold higher temp , and what is the limit?
is it caused of the different coatings?

V3.0_211STOCK is the lastest software that you should be running.

IN the pdf manual on the HW website their are some recommendation for gearing 13.5 should be in the 4-5 range I believe. With the Nosram motor, start with your settings REALLY low, that motor has built in timing.

DDRS 7
Boost 30
Turbo 14
Turbo Slope 14/.1
Boost slope 350rpm/deg
Start RPM 6000

Run the car for acouple of minutes and then check the temp of the motor. You dont want the outside of the motor to get hotter then 125F (about 50C).

That should get you going, if you find the motor is still cool to the touch, then bring the boost up to 50, and add some more gear.

Shawn.

I disagree ... any engine should not exceed 80°C, if you want to keep the maximum performance, I personally saw a rotor a rotor x12 unhitched ...
Also for GM the temperature limit is 100°C, same as LRP, but personally I advise you not to ever get there.

oh Agno,
and many one who missed point

The cause of the Limit temp, involved many reason material resist,

the most is not the Rotor, the rotor of Brushless is unlike the Brushed, Brushless Rotor Mag, are well enough in such hi temp's,

but the Most Problem is from Coil Coating's and stator coating/Plastics
which will melt in such temp's.

No offence, you can disagree, but I personally ran X12's all last year. I had two 10.5's that lasted the whole season, and the only reason I brought a second was because I thought the rotor had possibly gone soft (it hadn't) due to the extra high temps at the aforementioned race meeting. I'm not saying 115 was what I intended to run (I was usually targeting 90-95), but it didn't have any long lasting effects on the motor's performance. I still have that motor now, and bet just as fast as any others out there.

Never had any problem with rotors, and if anything on the X12's only, the higher temp is fine for getting it to run at it's best. Make it too cool, and you loose performance. Trust me when I say I've had a whole load of experience running that motor, and am pretty sure on how to get the best out of them

I will say I was very sceptical about those motors when I first ran them last year, couldn't get the temps down below 80 without losing a lot of performance. Part of that was speedo setup, and part learning how the motor works best. X12, four dot insert, let it rev, and just ignore the higher temps.

The X12 is simply built differently, and uses different materials compared to most other motors. In some respects, it's a stock motor built like a mod, for want of a better expression!

has anyone got a setup for 17.5 short course truck ?

What software you using.

That sounds pretty good for a starting setup. FDR maybe nearer 6, as I ran the 10.5's at 7.3FDR. Trying to remember eastbourne, I don't think you need to be maxing out the timing settings, maybe more boost on a longer ramp would help for the tighter infield. Then tweak the turbo to gain back the straight line. If I remember rightly, it's quite tight onto the straight, so a short delay could help to get it kicking in quicker, and possibly also after the first turn.
Also make sure to put the four dot insert in (should be standard out the box setting) when setting the motor timing.

HiH
Ed

Of course the biggest problem of a brushless is the loss of coating of the wire with the heat and so there is irreversible damage, but already 80°C the magnetic rotor loses its effectiveness, the motor still works fine, but there is a loss of acceleration torque and reduction in braking efficiency, if you want maximum efficiency we have to replace the rotor.
I think it's useless to try Firmware with some electronic degrees more when you do not have efficient 100% engine.
I try to keep the temperature of my engine always less than 80°C and frankly no one was quicker than me on the straight, despite its engine exceeded the 100°C ...

I know the X12 is a great engine, I tried it, excellent construction and performance, although difficult to setup with the firmware variable advance.
I'm just not agree on the declaration of the manufacturer's safety, I personally think that 100°C are too many ...

You are right Agno about the temp's

But the thing is not Rotor, it's a Stators.
friend.

and Today We are using Permanent Sintered Rotor Magnet's,
The temp to run is higher than the Old Brushed Magnet's.

Hi guys, this is the setup I ran to get the x12 to ridiculous temps;

X12 10.5 geared at 7.57

4 - 6
9 - 42
10 -18
12 - 2
13 - 10000
14 - 0.3
15 - 450

These are recommended in the instructions Novak sintered rotor:

- The temperature of the rotor's magnetic material is rated up to 200 degrees C (392 degrees F). The operating temperature of the motor should never rise above 71 degrees C (160 degrees F).-

Of course 80°C to which I referred were outside, we must always consider that inside the degrees at least doubled, so when we have 100°C outside, inside we definitely over 200°C, too many for me, for any kind of magnet.