Ok, so I am getting back into rc's. It's been 20 years since I used to race my RC-10 and things have changed!!!

This is what I've got...

Jammin SCRT10
Mamba Max Pro Esc
5.5t 550 Novak Ballistic Motor
Savox SC1256tg digital servo
Flysky FS-GT3B Radio control
Venom 50c 5000mah 2s lipo

Now here's my problem. I've calibrated the transmitter to the car and everything works except when I go to turn the wheels, both the wheels turn and I get full throttle. I do get forward and reverse from the trigger.

The motor comes on only at certain points when I turn the wheels. I have no idea what to calibrate here. Is it the ESC, transmitter, or reciever? Or something else?

I am at a loss here. HELP ME!!

My guess would be a bec related issue, common prolem many of us encounter

Reciever gets power from the bec in the ESC

Your servo is drawing too much power and causing the reciever to drop out, happens when bec is not up to the task

May be easily fixed with a glitch buster capacitor

Worst case scenario you may need to install an external bec ($30 or so)

Cheers

Just to eliminate some obvious, make sure steering servo is plugged into channel 1, ESC in channel 2

The 1256 servo shouldnt be too much for the BEC its not super fast like the 1257 so it shouldnt have huge spikes.

The reason i say this is i have 1257 and 1258 servos, i run MMP's and Tekin RS's. The RS BEC has no trouble pulling any of these servos, but when i put a 1257 on the MMP i need to run a cap. No issues out of the 1258. Odd rite? But thats how it is and I need to run a cap when using a MMP/1257 setup.

Still if it is the servo pulling too much i would look into a receiver capacitor you can get for like 5 bucks over spending 30 on an external BEC.

I really like the MMP, great tunability, smooth, and handles lots of power. Its only downfall is it's weak BEC circuit.

@ gizmo..what cap value are you using? i will be using a 1257 for throttle and a 1256 for steering... on a sanwa 451r... what cap should i use?

Yea. Servo is in ch 1 and ESC is in ch 2.

How does the cap install?

the cap just plugs in the battery spot on your reciever. The Savox servo draws much more current that most other servos on the market. 90% of people at my Local track run them because of their price and they all have to get a glitchbuster. It isn't a big deal and there is nothing wrong with what you have. I run all Savox in my electrics and my nitros and have had no issues once i put in a glitch buster. all it is is a capacitor with a reciever end on it. Spectrum makes a good one that is inexpensive. also use two layers of servo tape if you have the reciever mounted directly to the chassi. I can't rememebr if your truck has a reciever box or not.

Make sure your battery(car bat.) is charged, if it's not the servo can pull down the voltage enough to cause a problem.
Also, make sure your steering end point is not set too far. If the servo is trying to go past the point where the steering linkages can go, it will demand mega amps that can also pull down the battery voltage.

Im unfamiliar with the receiver, im running a sanwa/Air 92744 and was just running the Spektrum voltage protector.

I didnt need the cap with the nitro, just the electric 1/10 that i run. It wouldnt hurt to run one though as they cant hurt anything really...

I was running pretty similar servos in nitro truggy 1256/1258 str/thr. Good stuff

I posted a similar question a day before this one came on as I am having the same issues and received the same response. Glad you guys know what's going on, because I had no idea as well.

I put the capacitor in and fixed everything!!!

This thing is a BEAST!!