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Old 03-02-2011 | 03:12 AM
  #16  
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hahahaha sorry, I didnt tilt my head! Looked somewhat symmetrical from how I was looking at it
Once I actually LOOKED at it, now I can see it's totalled!!
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Old 03-02-2011 | 03:53 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by sammies
When idling, temps were between 85 to 90. I try to keep it within that range. I do know the importance of getting the engine up to temp asap. But admittedly, am quite new to all this. I try to read what I can and then apply it.

Obviously have not been reading enough and something obviously gone way wrong some where.

the conrod that broke was the original conrod (same used throughout the breakin process). so i guess lesson learnt. expensive lesson.
Don't feel bad, I broke the crank pin off my Kangaroo with about 1.5 gallons thru it. ouch!!!
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Old 03-02-2011 | 08:34 PM
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guys, you have to pull down your new out of the box engines. i have sen so many have tight piston pins. this doesnt allow the piston to rock freely, and signs of damage can happen real quick. this wears the piston on the skirts, and the top grooves, and drags down the liner, then back up. is definately something to look at in future.
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Old 03-03-2011 | 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Pattojnr
guys, you have to pull down your new out of the box engines. i have sen so many have tight piston pins. this doesnt allow the piston to rock freely, and signs of damage can happen real quick. this wears the piston on the skirts, and the top grooves, and drags down the liner, then back up. is definately something to look at in future.
Hi Patton... thank you for the advice.

by piston pin, you are referring to the wrist pin where the conrod attaches to the piston?

If the wrist pin is indeed tight, what does one do to rectify it? is the only way to change out the wrist pin?
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Old 03-03-2011 | 02:27 AM
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That's what I was thinking too.
The only thing I see in "fixing" this problem would be to check what the actual diameter of the pin is, and what the diameter of the piston-pin side of the rod is.
Even if you do find the pin to be too large, or the rod to be too tight, how can you enlarge/reduce the two without going too far?
Good to point out, hard to fix IMO.
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Old 03-03-2011 | 02:55 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by sammies
Hi Patton... thank you for the advice.

by piston pin, you are referring to the wrist pin where the conrod attaches to the piston?

If the wrist pin is indeed tight, what does one do to rectify it? is the only way to change out the wrist pin?
if it is tight, i would contact the retailer where purchased, i have seen maybe 4 pins tight from nova based engines in the last year. one of them badly wore the piston in about 1.5 lts of fuel. if retailer wont do anything, i would try a new wrist pin. if that one is tight, i have some very fine bits for light polishing work. i would polish the piston very carefully and only to make it feel looser that the piston will rock in your hand if tilting the rod from side to side.

but first contact the seller before anything is done. give them the choice to replace parts, or the engine.
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