Does the Castle MM Pro fit in the B4? A friend wants to use one, but I wondered about the size.

Rob..........

What do you want included? What are you willing to pay?

hey guys I got a question about the diff

I so know I installed everything right, it all moves and works properly, but when I completely tighten down the diff case screws, it becomes hard to move the spur for 1/4 of its movement, when I loosen everything off it spins freely.

Is this just a matter of everything needing to break in and ill just have to keep an eye on it and tighten it up as I go?

Also the outdrives, they do move freely with resistance, but it almost feels like "sandy" resistance, again is that just a matter of things needing to break in? ie. the washers on the outdrives pressed against the ball bearings?

thanks! Ive never built one from scratch before, so I dont want ot make any wrong assumptions

Make sure all the bearings are pressed in the case. I had one bearing that didn't get pressed all the way in and it bound the transmission.

i use one without the fan, it fits underneath the new jconcepts body

You are talking about the ESC? If so the dimensions are:

L: 1.79” (45.5mm)
W: 1.44”(36.5mm)
H: 0.85” (21.5mm)

(strait from Castle Creations website) (edit: I believe that those are without fan)

Yeah, try the bearings but the problem with the outdrives is normal. I have built my diff a few time trying to get rid of the gritty feeling you are talking about but it doesn't go anywhere Maybe after a while it smoothes out. I tried replacing the gear and the diff balls but neither made a diff-(oh puns)-erence..

As for the transmission case, I don't have that much resistance but I notice a small (less than half a second) change in how long the tires spin freely when I take out the motor and tighten or loosen the screws. I wish I could help you with that problem as that less-than-half-a-second is really annoying me -.-

The 2 FT sc10's I built had no issues, my FT B4.1 was like yours, I simply ran it with the one tranny screw (only one caused the issue for me) on the loose side so the tranny wouldn't bind. Ran it one race day and then pulled it apart to see if I could fix the problem, I'm not one to leave something that's just not right. Before I pulled it all apart I tightend up the all the tranny screws and it was fine. I would guess things needed to seat a little inside. It shouldn't be that way but it's all good know.

thanks for the replies. I figured out that its the screw that also holds the body mounts that is binding things up. in order for it to be tight enough that the mounts dont flop around, it binds up the diff..

any ideas?

Be careful on this screw...it can protrude into the back slipper plate. I have a nice shiny groove cut into mine. You might have to cut the very tip off with a dremel.

As stated above mostly likely either the idler gear, or top shaft bearing is not seated correctly.

anyone have any trouble with the shock bleeder screws?

i just cannot get a thread to start and I dont think I have any 2-56 taps :/ i dont even think thats a standard size tbh

I used a 2-56 tap to thread the bleeder caps. Here ya go.


http://shop.dubro.com/products/produ...=360/101.0.1.1

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2&blockType=G2

I just got as good of a position as I could so the little set-screw wouldn't fall out and then put as much pressure possible with the little screws that came with the shocks. I did it before I filled the shocks to get the screw going and then after I finished putting the screw in. It was tough but if you push hard enough it'll work without any breaking

just use a little pressure and if you do it at the right angle it'll go in easy. i just did 4 new caps and didn't tap them.

never had trouble with the 4 sets I've done, can be tricky little suckers though. One option would be to LIGHTLY chamfer the hole with an X-Acto.