4LikesNEW HOBBYWING STOCK SUPERCHARGED SOFTWARE
02-21-2011 | 02:45 AM
#3271
DATA LOGGER FINDINGS
Hi all I raced at Maritime in Kent over the weekend and used the data logger for the first time....
Interesting results and a useful tool.
Turns out with my gearing the motor was 'topping out (13.5) at 45,000 RPM and was holding it for around a second, so we started adding more gearing until the logger read an instantaneous top out. with a 6.77:1 FDR the sweet spot was found for the straight and the infield punch was not affected at all, the only other adjustment made from the previous settings was to raise the Boost Start to 2000 and Iwill play more with that setting in future runs.
I believe that Ihave more power to gain from additional gearing but I ran out of runs. Final run testing temps were around 140F, car was very quick but the car was handling oddly (due to the driver) and I hope that someone with a better driving abilities will find the readings useful.
Interesting results and a useful tool.
Turns out with my gearing the motor was 'topping out (13.5) at 45,000 RPM and was holding it for around a second, so we started adding more gearing until the logger read an instantaneous top out. with a 6.77:1 FDR the sweet spot was found for the straight and the infield punch was not affected at all, the only other adjustment made from the previous settings was to raise the Boost Start to 2000 and Iwill play more with that setting in future runs.
I believe that Ihave more power to gain from additional gearing but I ran out of runs. Final run testing temps were around 140F, car was very quick but the car was handling oddly (due to the driver) and I hope that someone with a better driving abilities will find the readings useful.
02-21-2011 | 03:54 AM
#3272
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 343
Hi all I raced at Maritime in Kent over the weekend and used the data logger for the first time....
Interesting results and a useful tool.
Turns out with my gearing the motor was 'topping out (13.5) at 45,000 RPM and was holding it for around a second, so we started adding more gearing until the logger read an instantaneous top out. with a 6.77:1 FDR the sweet spot was found for the straight and the infield punch was not affected at all, the only other adjustment made from the previous settings was to raise the Boost Start to 2000 and Iwill play more with that setting in future runs.
I believe that Ihave more power to gain from additional gearing but I ran out of runs. Final run testing temps were around 140F, car was very quick but the car was handling oddly (due to the driver) and I hope that someone with a better driving abilities will find the readings useful.
Interesting results and a useful tool.
Turns out with my gearing the motor was 'topping out (13.5) at 45,000 RPM and was holding it for around a second, so we started adding more gearing until the logger read an instantaneous top out. with a 6.77:1 FDR the sweet spot was found for the straight and the infield punch was not affected at all, the only other adjustment made from the previous settings was to raise the Boost Start to 2000 and Iwill play more with that setting in future runs.
I believe that Ihave more power to gain from additional gearing but I ran out of runs. Final run testing temps were around 140F, car was very quick but the car was handling oddly (due to the driver) and I hope that someone with a better driving abilities will find the readings useful.
Hope you ankle is ok, felt for you.
02-21-2011 | 06:17 AM
#3274
I was at the same meeting, and like you played around with setting every run. Interestingly, my setting were very different to yours. I'm at work atm but will try and post my settings tonight. I do remember FDR was 6.48, DRRS was set at 4 and start revs was 5000, the car was very fast and smooth and coming off at about 60c, it was also easy to drive.
Hope you ankle is ok, felt for you.
Hope you ankle is ok, felt for you.
Think I am gradually getting down to the 6.5's just trying to make a workable 'reason' why it needs to using the logger.
On my settings was very point and squirt was struggling more with on power understeer than settings I think as was able to keep up with Ian in the Final but he just had more steering hence more speed around the corners, may just be a shortcoming of the Sakura Sport. As I have added so much rear end grip to try to tame the backside and now struggling with on power understeer, way I drive tends to be very aggresive so like using power in the corners, maybe a little too early but it's been 15 years and I don't think that I will be able to retrain myself out of that one
But please get the figures posted as the more we have up here the better we can get to 'know' the Xtreme Stock.
02-21-2011 | 10:26 AM
#3275
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 95
Not entirely accurate....
Boost start RPM is the point at which the dynamic timing on the motor comes into effect, Timing ACC is the rate at which the BOOST (Non Turbo) is added, BOOST TIMING is the amount of NON Turbo Timing.
The TURBO is affected by the application of FULL THROTTLE/DELAY/TURBO SLOPE.
Hit full throttle in the infield, meet the delay then the ESC is going to dump the Turbo on regardless of where the dynamic timing is actually at.
The two need to be balanced to allow correct usage of the software.
BOOST = Non Turbo Dynamic timing.
TURBO = The Additional timing added when the (Turbo) parameters set have ALL been met.
So to adjust (Non Turbo BOOST) you need to be adjusting BOOST TIMING, START RPM & TIMING ACC.
To adjust the TURBO (Additional Timing) you need to be adjusting TURBO TIMING, TURBO SLOPE & TURBO DELAY.
DDRS (4) 9
Boost Timing (9) 40 (NON TURBO DYNAMIC TIMING)
Turbo Slope (10) 18 (RATE AT WHICH ADDITIONAL TIMING IS ADDED/0.1ms)
Turbo Timing (12) 18 (AMOUNT OF TURBO ADDITIONAL TIMING TO BE ADDED)
Start RPM (13) 1000 (POINT AT WHICH NON TURBO BOOST RAMP BEGINS)
Turbo Delay (14) 0.3sec (TIME FULL TROTTLE MUST BE HELD BEFORE TURBO ADDITIONAL TIMING IS ADDED)
Timing Acc (15) 100 (NUMBER OF RPM IN MOTOR FOR EACH ADDITIONAL DEGREE OF NON TURBO TIMING TO BE ADDED)
Boost start RPM is the point at which the dynamic timing on the motor comes into effect, Timing ACC is the rate at which the BOOST (Non Turbo) is added, BOOST TIMING is the amount of NON Turbo Timing.
The TURBO is affected by the application of FULL THROTTLE/DELAY/TURBO SLOPE.
Hit full throttle in the infield, meet the delay then the ESC is going to dump the Turbo on regardless of where the dynamic timing is actually at.
The two need to be balanced to allow correct usage of the software.
BOOST = Non Turbo Dynamic timing.
TURBO = The Additional timing added when the (Turbo) parameters set have ALL been met.
So to adjust (Non Turbo BOOST) you need to be adjusting BOOST TIMING, START RPM & TIMING ACC.
To adjust the TURBO (Additional Timing) you need to be adjusting TURBO TIMING, TURBO SLOPE & TURBO DELAY.
DDRS (4) 9
Boost Timing (9) 40 (NON TURBO DYNAMIC TIMING)
Turbo Slope (10) 18 (RATE AT WHICH ADDITIONAL TIMING IS ADDED/0.1ms)
Turbo Timing (12) 18 (AMOUNT OF TURBO ADDITIONAL TIMING TO BE ADDED)
Start RPM (13) 1000 (POINT AT WHICH NON TURBO BOOST RAMP BEGINS)
Turbo Delay (14) 0.3sec (TIME FULL TROTTLE MUST BE HELD BEFORE TURBO ADDITIONAL TIMING IS ADDED)
Timing Acc (15) 100 (NUMBER OF RPM IN MOTOR FOR EACH ADDITIONAL DEGREE OF NON TURBO TIMING TO BE ADDED)
I'm glad you posted this. You make it a lot clearer than the explanation or lack thereof in the PDF on the HW site.
So what's the answer to the original question asked by reconrc?
also i noticed there is no boost start rpm and boost timing - why is that?
02-21-2011 | 10:46 AM
#3276
Think of it as a 'Just in case' attitude.......
02-21-2011 | 01:37 PM
#3277
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 343
@ cherry
The FDR i used seemed to be about right for the motor I used, an old SP 13.5 V1, I imagine you were useing a Hobbywing so it is more than possible that it would require a different FDR anyway. I can only go on what it feels like on the track, be nice to try something like your data logging gear, if only to prove what I feel is correct or not.
For anyone else that might be interested, it was a carpet track, 30m x 14m, some tight infield sections and the rest fast and flowing, and the car was an Xray T3'11
SW - 0119 stock
2 - Drag brake - 10%
4 - DRRS - 4
5 - Brake Strenght - 100%
6 - Reverse Brake - 100%
7 - Initial Brake - 40%
9 - Boost Timing - #31 / 30
10 - Turbo Slope - #4 / 18
12 - Turbo Timing - #31 / 30
13 - Start Revs - 5000
14 - Turbo Delay - 0.2sec
15 - Timing ACC - 500
I did have the start revs at 2000 and ACC set to 400, but felt that this was bringing the timing in too quickly on the sweepers and pushing the car. By setting the start revs to come in later, and increasing the ACC to 500, this calmed things down enough to make the car more controllable meaning I could hold a tighter line in the sweepers. I have also found that the higher number DRRS used, the more aggresive the car becomes, dont think I have ever liked it above 5.
One thing I will say is that different track layouts and driving styles do require different setups (car & ESC), what works for me might not work for someone else, although the principles are the same.
I'm really liking 119 now, at first I preferred 1224. Just goes to prove that you need to work on settings to get the best from them.
Cherry, if your there this Thursday, can you bring me a Hobbywing 13.5 please mate, want to give one a try and see how it goes
The FDR i used seemed to be about right for the motor I used, an old SP 13.5 V1, I imagine you were useing a Hobbywing so it is more than possible that it would require a different FDR anyway. I can only go on what it feels like on the track, be nice to try something like your data logging gear, if only to prove what I feel is correct or not.
For anyone else that might be interested, it was a carpet track, 30m x 14m, some tight infield sections and the rest fast and flowing, and the car was an Xray T3'11
SW - 0119 stock
2 - Drag brake - 10%
4 - DRRS - 4
5 - Brake Strenght - 100%
6 - Reverse Brake - 100%
7 - Initial Brake - 40%
9 - Boost Timing - #31 / 30
10 - Turbo Slope - #4 / 18
12 - Turbo Timing - #31 / 30
13 - Start Revs - 5000
14 - Turbo Delay - 0.2sec
15 - Timing ACC - 500
I did have the start revs at 2000 and ACC set to 400, but felt that this was bringing the timing in too quickly on the sweepers and pushing the car. By setting the start revs to come in later, and increasing the ACC to 500, this calmed things down enough to make the car more controllable meaning I could hold a tighter line in the sweepers. I have also found that the higher number DRRS used, the more aggresive the car becomes, dont think I have ever liked it above 5.
One thing I will say is that different track layouts and driving styles do require different setups (car & ESC), what works for me might not work for someone else, although the principles are the same.
I'm really liking 119 now, at first I preferred 1224. Just goes to prove that you need to work on settings to get the best from them.
Cherry, if your there this Thursday, can you bring me a Hobbywing 13.5 please mate, want to give one a try and see how it goes
02-21-2011 | 01:40 PM
#3278
I've never had to flash my 120a esc twice! It took the 110119 on the first time as far as I know. Ran it yesterday on a smallish carpet track against 17.5s. My 21.5 had no problem running them down or pulling away from them. Now there's talk of making the 21.5 class a "no timing" class. That's ok! I'll just run my 21.5 with the 17.5s. Shouldn't be a problem!
Oh, I almost forgot. I thought I was going to burn up my motor & esc yesterday. The motor come of at 105F & the esc was 85F.
OH THE HUMANITY!
Oh, I almost forgot. I thought I was going to burn up my motor & esc yesterday. The motor come of at 105F & the esc was 85F.
OH THE HUMANITY!
02-21-2011 | 02:40 PM
#3279
Hobbywing 120A 1s esc
Has any one tried one of these in for WGT or 1/12?
http://www.hobbyhot.com/xerun-blue-b...d-pr-2699.html
Are they as good as the 2s Hobbywing Esc's? Is there somewhere in the US I can get one?
http://www.hobbyhot.com/xerun-blue-b...d-pr-2699.html
Are they as good as the 2s Hobbywing Esc's? Is there somewhere in the US I can get one?
02-21-2011 | 02:49 PM
#3280
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 343
Has any one tried one of these in for WGT or 1/12?
http://www.hobbyhot.com/xerun-blue-b...d-pr-2699.html
Are they as good as the 2s Hobbywing Esc's? Is there somewhere in the US I can get one?
http://www.hobbyhot.com/xerun-blue-b...d-pr-2699.html
Are they as good as the 2s Hobbywing Esc's? Is there somewhere in the US I can get one?
02-21-2011 | 06:11 PM
#3282
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 893
we also find if we go back to the Previous Version Firmware, The Flashing error apear when we want to go back to SuperCharge Version Firmware, and must be do it twice again, but after that don't have to do it twice again.
But for Precaution, if you had error message when flashing please do it again, do not turned off esc/Program be patient until "Finish Successful".
02-21-2011 | 07:21 PM
#3283
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 81
Try reflashing the firmware and remember to do it TWICE each time, I know I labour this point and have done for over a year but you NEED to do it TWICE as in earlier firmwares there were some gaps in the information flashed over, I have always done it twice and have NEVER had ANY issues at all. So for the sake of an additional 30 seconds of waiting JUST DO IT TWICE
Think of it as a 'Just in case' attitude.......
Think of it as a 'Just in case' attitude.......
02-21-2011 | 07:36 PM
#3284
Tech Adept
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 138
I have already upgraded the firmware on my programming card and ESC twice each time many times, but for some reason the "BOOST START RPM" and "BOOST TIMING ACC" are not adjustable - they are blank but say 1000rpm and 50rpm/deg respectively. Is there another reason why? Not sure what I'm doing wrong - any advice?
Hope this helps, it did it for me.
02-21-2011 | 07:56 PM
#3285
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 81
) and now Start RPM and Boost Timing ACC are adjustable. Once again thanks to all who helped me.Now any advice on what settings to run for SC10 racing with 13.5t? Or just run everything max until temp and speed is fine/in good balance?