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Old 02-09-2011 | 05:11 AM
  #6511  
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Hey Ron, or Werks pro's out there...

Just put a new sleeve and piston in my sons B5. What are the best carb settings for re-break-in?? Its been a long time since I last broke this motor in and I dont remember what the factory settings were!!!

Thanks!
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Old 02-09-2011 | 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by FOXC
Hey Ron, or Werks pro's out there...

Just put a new sleeve and piston in my sons B5. What are the best carb settings for re-break-in?? Its been a long time since I last broke this motor in and I dont remember what the factory settings were!!!

Thanks!
Needles flush high side and low side
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Old 02-09-2011 | 08:04 AM
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Any issues running the 2010 carb in the older B5? Thanks
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Old 02-09-2011 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by FOXC
Hey Ron, or Werks pro's out there...

Just put a new sleeve and piston in my sons B5. What are the best carb settings for re-break-in?? Its been a long time since I last broke this motor in and I dont remember what the factory settings were!!!

Thanks!
Take a look at the first post in this thread, it has a step to step guide on how I recommend breaking in the engine. Now that you replaced the P/S you are basically going to be following the same route as you would be breaking in a new engine! Once you take a look at it let me know if you have any questions or need some help.
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Old 02-09-2011 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by phaqu22
Any issues running the 2010 carb in the older B5? Thanks
The only issue which is not really an issue is that the newer cases that come with the 2010 carb have a small indentation machined in the surface that sits flush with the base of the carb. This allows a second small o-ring to used around the carb neck. So on the older case which does not have this indentation machined into it the carb will sit up about .5mm (so if you can imagine there will be a small gap between the carb base and the case because of a little o-ring being sandwiched between the two). Just remove the small o-ring (which works as a secondary seal) as there is the big o-ring in the case that fits around the carb neck and seals it just fine. That is all that you are going to see and again there is absolutely no issue running the carb with the small secondary o-ring removed. Hope this helps!
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Old 02-09-2011 | 10:32 AM
  #6516  
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Originally Posted by toofast55
Needles flush high side and low side
Thanks!

Originally Posted by Werks
Take a look at the first post in this thread, it has a step to step guide on how I recommend breaking in the engine. Now that you replaced the P/S you are basically going to be following the same route as you would be breaking in a new engine! Once you take a look at it let me know if you have any questions or need some help.
Ron...thanks, My son is itchin to drive! Lets get this puppy broken in...
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Old 02-09-2011 | 06:18 PM
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Ron if your still taking suggestions on how to improve on your already great products, how about putting markings on the low speed needle that will make it easier to determine how many turns (hours) we have moved the needle.

I saw a picture of this on Ryan Lutz's Alpha engine at the Worlds and thought that was a great idea.

Thanks!
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Old 02-09-2011 | 06:46 PM
  #6518  
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Originally Posted by hookem34
Ron if your still taking suggestions on how to improve on your already great products, how about putting markings on the low speed needle that will make it easier to determine how many turns (hours) we have moved the needle.

I saw a picture of this on Ryan Lutz's Alpha engine at the Worlds and thought that was a great idea.

Thanks!
Like this on for the Orion Alpha?
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Old 02-09-2011 | 07:15 PM
  #6519  
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Originally Posted by ScottyM
Like this on for the Orion Alpha?
some careful drummel work can get that done
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Old 02-09-2011 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottyM
Like this on for the Orion Alpha?
That's the one and if you could some how paint (or powdercoat) those markings to make them easier to read that would be the bee's knees
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Old 02-09-2011 | 08:48 PM
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How about weighting and putty filling like the b7.
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Old 02-09-2011 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by FOXC
Thanks!



Ron...thanks, My son is itchin to drive! Lets get this puppy broken in...
Let me know what he thinks after he gets some fuel through it!
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Old 02-09-2011 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by hookem34
Ron if your still taking suggestions on how to improve on your already great products, how about putting markings on the low speed needle that will make it easier to determine how many turns (hours) we have moved the needle.

I saw a picture of this on Ryan Lutz's Alpha engine at the Worlds and thought that was a great idea.

Thanks!
The thing is when do you actually use that? I don't know about you but when I'm tuning an engine it's usually when the car is running on the track and then you always have the body on so you can't see the marks anyways. When I get back in the pits and have the time to actually take the body off and look at the LS needle, well then it is easy enough to see what position or I should say using a clock face, at which hour i have the needle set to. I could understand the desire to have this more if we used an allen head wrench to adjust the needle or something like that but were using a flat head screw driver lol so there is a straight line in the face of the needle anyways. I think that something like that is more beneficial for shall we say newer tuners so that you can say just set the LS to 3 o'clock and you are dialed but honestly with all of the variables between set ups (plugs, fuel, pipes, ambient conditions etc. etc.) we should never be telling people to tune like that anyways imho.
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Old 02-10-2011 | 06:05 AM
  #6524  
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Originally Posted by Werks
The thing is when do you actually use that? I don't know about you but when I'm tuning an engine it's usually when the car is running on the track and then you always have the body on so you can't see the marks anyways. When I get back in the pits and have the time to actually take the body off and look at the LS needle, well then it is easy enough to see what position or I should say using a clock face, at which hour i have the needle set to. I could understand the desire to have this more if we used an allen head wrench to adjust the needle or something like that but were using a flat head screw driver lol so there is a straight line in the face of the needle anyways. I think that something like that is more beneficial for shall we say newer tuners so that you can say just set the LS to 3 o'clock and you are dialed but honestly with all of the variables between set ups (plugs, fuel, pipes, ambient conditions etc. etc.) we should never be telling people to tune like that anyways imho.
Great points!
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Old 02-10-2011 | 06:39 AM
  #6525  
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Hey guys I know it is off subject a little, but what fuel gun does everyone like or use. If the there a thread for this just post the link and I will follow it.

Thanks

Jon
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