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Old 02-25-2011 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Potkukelkka
Is it ok to use B7 conrod in B5?

Yep, it will work just fine.
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Old 02-25-2011 | 02:09 PM
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...................

Last edited by 3DRCRACER; 02-26-2011 at 06:45 AM.
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Old 02-27-2011 | 04:44 PM
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Proud new owner of a B5. started break in today and it went very smooth so far. Put 6 tanks through it and have kept it around 200º

How many more tanks should I run before I start to lean it out? I have a jp2 and jp4 and started the break in on the jp2.

Any advice on specific race tuned operating temp?

Last edited by phelgo; 02-27-2011 at 05:20 PM.
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Old 02-27-2011 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by phelgo
Proud new owner of a B5. started break in today and it went very smooth so far. Put 6 tanks through it so far and have kept it around 200º so far.

How many more tanks should I run before I start to lean it out? I have a jp2 and jp4 and started the break in on the jp2.

Any advice on specific race tuned operating temp?
Depending on conditions, 200 - 270. Obviously 270 on a cool dry day is probably a sign of a pretty lean tune, where as 200 on a 100F+ day is probably a little rich. Temperature will vary greatly with oil content, track layout, it's so hard to say. My motor, when tuned well for race conditions on an average summer day in the midwest, tends to be around 220 - 240. On the hotter days, it will approach 260 - 270, and when I see it get close to those temps, I tend to richen the motor up and take away a little top end to be on the safe side, especially for club races. At a bigger event, I may still tune tight to top speed and leave it on the hot side.

I don't know about others, but I consider a motor broken in enough to race tune the moment the physical pinch is not noticeable with the motor warm and the plug out. Basically, immediately after each break-in tank, I immediately pop the plug out and try to turn the motor over by hand with my finger on the flywheel. Since the motor was just running, it will be up to temp, and a broken in motor will offer no resistance when the piston is at the top around the pinch when hot. Obviously leave the piston in the down position as it will close back around and lock the piston up as it cools otherwise.

Wayne
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Old 02-27-2011 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by phelgo
Proud new owner of a B5. started break in today and it went very smooth so far. Put 6 tanks through it so far and have kept it around 200º so far.

How many more tanks should I run before I start to lean it out? I have a jp2 and jp4 and started the break in on the jp2.

Any advice on specific race tuned operating temp?
Thanks for picking up one of our engines! Take a look at the first post on thus thread to see how I go about breaking in and tuning an engine at the same time. This should answer most of the questions that you might have. If not please do not hesitate to ask!

Regards,

Ron
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Old 02-27-2011 | 05:29 PM
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Thanks for the tip on pulling the plug while its still hot... i'm in texas so the weather is almost over 90º.
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Old 02-28-2011 | 05:24 AM
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Man had a great weekend with the my new Werks B5/2013 combo in my RC8T qualified 5th for the A and finished 3rd and battled for 2nd and 1st thru the whole 30min A main at the 4th Annual Indy RC World Ice Breaker $$$ Race which brings the fastest in the south. The B5/2013 Werks fuel combo was giving phenomenal performance thru the whole weekend with the truck tank measured right at 150cc I was getting close to 13min of run time with a little more break in and some fine tuning this combo no doubt will seeing close to 14min of run time in a truck!! After switching from Powermaster fuel which is a great fuel I'm seeing a good 45sec to 1 min gain of run time just by switching to Werks Fuel! This is a great combo no doubt !! Thanks Ron!!
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Old 02-28-2011 | 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by TXRC8racer
Man had a great weekend with the my new Werks B5/2013 combo in my RC8T qualified 5th for the A and finished 3rd and battled for 2nd and 1st thru the whole 30min A main at the 4th Annual Indy RC World Ice Breaker $$$ Race which brings the fastest in the south. The B5/2013 Werks fuel combo was giving phenomenal performance thru the whole weekend with the truck tank measured right at 150cc I was getting close to 13min of run time with a little more break in and some fine tuning this combo no doubt will seeing close to 14min of run time in a truck!! After switching from Powermaster fuel which is a great fuel I'm seeing a good 45sec to 1 min gain of run time just by switching to Werks Fuel! This is a great combo no doubt !! Thanks Ron!!
Congrats Lance. Wish I could have made that one. See you in Porter. Make sure and bring that A game with you.
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Old 02-28-2011 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Razathorn
Depending on conditions, 200 - 270. Obviously 270 on a cool dry day is probably a sign of a pretty lean tune, where as 200 on a 100F+ day is probably a little rich. Temperature will vary greatly with oil content, track layout, it's so hard to say. My motor, when tuned well for race conditions on an average summer day in the midwest, tends to be around 220 - 240. On the hotter days, it will approach 260 - 270, and when I see it get close to those temps, I tend to richen the motor up and take away a little top end to be on the safe side, especially for club races. At a bigger event, I may still tune tight to top speed and leave it on the hot side.


Wayne
What temp gun do you use? I don't think I could get a b5 up to 260-270 without lean bogging.
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Old 02-28-2011 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 071crazy
What temp gun do you use? I don't think I could get a b5 up to 260-270 without lean bogging.
Multiple temp guns have caught it there. Those are 100F+ humid days. Outside temperature makes a huge difference. On those days, you really have to lean the motor out to make any power too. It sucks. Also it didn't help that I was running an 11% oil content fuel then either. Now that I've gone to a 9% oil content, my temps are around 15-20F lower in all conditions.
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Old 03-01-2011 | 08:25 AM
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Default B5 2013 pipe

Just got my B5 and a 2013 pipe from A-main. Can not wait till it gets warm enough to start the break in.
When looking at the pipe the pressure nipple seems like it is 180 degrees from the stinger so it will put it on the side of the pipe instead of at the top if the stinger is at a 90 degree position. Is this normal for a werks pipe?
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Old 03-01-2011 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jmpn02
Just got my B5 and a 2013 pipe from A-main. Can not wait till it gets warm enough to start the break in.
When looking at the pipe the pressure nipple seems like it is 180 degrees from the stinger so it will put it on the side of the pipe instead of at the top if the stinger is at a 90 degree position. Is this normal for a werks pipe?
When everything is together and installed it will be slightly in-board instead of directly on the top. Keeps the body from rubbing against the pressure nipple which will mess up your paint/wear a hole in it and also keeps it off the pressure line which can damage it.
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Old 03-01-2011 | 10:16 AM
  #6673  
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Hey Ron, Just out of curiosity, What are your thoughts on Team Orion Alpha engines coming from the same factory as your motors? their 3 port to your 3 port, their 5port to your 5port.....
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Old 03-01-2011 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by trickedout
Hey Ron, Just out of curiosity, What are your thoughts on Team Orion Alpha engines coming from the same factory as your motors? their 3 port to your 3 port, their 5port to your 5port.....
Man, that's a loaded question! The 5 port engines are hardly similar, different bore/stroke and timing.
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Old 03-01-2011 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by trickedout
Hey Ron, Just out of curiosity, What are your thoughts on Team Orion Alpha engines coming from the same factory as your motors? their 3 port to your 3 port, their 5port to your 5port.....
I'm not really sure what specifically you are asking but I have no problem with the Orion engines coming from the same factory. It's kinda like full sized cars, more than likely parts that you find on a GM car, Ford and some of the other brands come from the same factories. So from that standpoint I have no issue with it. Our relationship with the factory is really good and we were actually the first outside company that they made engines for (so non-internal brand i.e. Sirio) so we basically have the longest relationship with them out of any companies that they work with. On top of that we were also the first American company that was able to get the Italians to make high end OEM engines for too (which is something that I'm quite proud of because it put us as the first American company on the same level as RB, JP etc).

Regarding the specifics of comparing our engines to Orion, really the only similarity that is shared is the carburetor. For the rest we are all responsible for our own designs so from a performance stand point of our 5 port versus their 5 port it's probably about as similar as comparing our 5 port to a Nova 5 port lol. Knowing the factory that they work with I have no doubts about the quality of machining or materials used but frankly that is about all that I can really say. As far as performance just from looking at the cars at the recent Worlds on the track at the same time, I felt that our B6 looked like it had more power (both bottom and top) than the engines from them that were in similar caliber drivers cars. But again both of our engines might be machined at the same facility but that does not mean that they are the same. We do not do the put a black head on it and it is a Werks engine, put a red head on it and it is an Orion engine thing like some of the other companies do. Our engines are completely different designs including bore, stroke, port timing/location/shapes, crank timing etc. etc. etc.

Hope this kinda answers your question.

Ron
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