Tamiya mini cooper
Hi, I've switched over from the plastic to alloy shocks. I've built them up the same as I would for TC Shocks, with the clear O-ring in the cartridge, except the instruction said to put a black O-ring under the piston. But the shock feel real tight! Put 500 oil in them with Blue & Yellow springs and they feel no better. Put them on the car and the cars suspension feels dead. Turned a few laps and sure enough the cars hopping like a bitch rabbit when cornering!
What have I done wrong?
What have I done wrong?

hmm the shocks shouldn't be binding, ive build numerous sets of mini shocks as per the instructions with the one black o-ring on the shaft.
the shock piston could be stiff in the shock body, i know the plastic molding is some times crappy, you need to trim any little bits off, so its smooth.
the shock piston could be stiff in the shock body, i know the plastic molding is some times crappy, you need to trim any little bits off, so its smooth.
Hi Guys,
So I got my mini built, did all the mandatory (bling) upgrades, And love the heck out of the way it drives. One thing I noticed is that is "skips" during hard cornering. Is that what is referred to as "bump steer"? I've upgraded to the Tamiya steering parts, using the s-grip tires, red springs rear and yellow front, asphalt track. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
So I got my mini built, did all the mandatory (bling) upgrades, And love the heck out of the way it drives. One thing I noticed is that is "skips" during hard cornering. Is that what is referred to as "bump steer"? I've upgraded to the Tamiya steering parts, using the s-grip tires, red springs rear and yellow front, asphalt track. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I got the same problem with my M05PRO (Suzuki Body). My M05 is pretty much stock-no upgrades as of yet.
Rear: blue springs and M-Grip tires
Front: red springs and S-Grip tires.
Carpet track.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
It depends. If you're racing, it's a good idea to have two. The smallest at my club are generally 2400mah. We run 5 minutes qualifiers and 8 minute mains. In a 5 minutes race they usually use less than 1000mah. In an 8 minute race it's between 1500-1800mah.
Most guys are using 3200mah or larger, just for safety sake and for the extra weight. Having two batteries allows you to have one charging while the other is ready to go or on the track.
If you're just out playing in a parking lot, running a stock silver can motor, a 3200mah should keep you rolling for at least 15-20 minutes safely, maybe more.
Jim
Most guys are using 3200mah or larger, just for safety sake and for the extra weight. Having two batteries allows you to have one charging while the other is ready to go or on the track.
If you're just out playing in a parking lot, running a stock silver can motor, a 3200mah should keep you rolling for at least 15-20 minutes safely, maybe more.
Jim
I have 4 packs, you can survive with 1 but i reckon 2 is best so you have 1 on charge ready to go.
But since i have 4, i sometimes charge them the night before and dont bother charging at the track. Not that much voltage lost with LiPos overnight for me to bother with at a club meet.
But since i have 4, i sometimes charge them the night before and dont bother charging at the track. Not that much voltage lost with LiPos overnight for me to bother with at a club meet.
Does anybody know where to find plastic versions of the little "planetary" gears inside the bevel gear diff? I remember finding those inside a 2nd hand diff I bought but forgot to keep them when I re-sold the kit. 
I'm thinking the gear diff would perfect for the m06 were it not for the extra weight. It's more maintenance-free than a ball diff.

I'm thinking the gear diff would perfect for the m06 were it not for the extra weight. It's more maintenance-free than a ball diff.



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