That sounds pretty good, many of the earlier production units were hitting 200F+ in 5 minutes. At 120F a brushed motor should last quite awhile.

Thanks

As stated in my first thread here on RCTech, I am awaiting my HobbyWing EZRUN-25A and Tacon 7800kv combo. Who currently runs this setup and what settings are you using? I am a huge newb to ESC's. My last vehicle was a Tamiya Hornet and it used a mechanical speed controller operated by a servo. I ordered the program card as part of the package. Did I waste my money? LOL...sorry if my questions are annoying. I just want to learn all I can now that I own an RC car again. I am having a lot of fun with this new-found hobby!!

Chris :O)

to lower the pinion so it doesnt rub the belt. i just messed with this for an hour and it still rubs. i could drill a new lower hole in the aluminum disc but it should be right out of the box.

i ground the shoulder of the pinion i elongated the holes in the disc to use the lower holes to lower the stock brushed motor but it ended up too low and is hitting something. not the chassis cause i dremeled that. i think its the motor bolt hitting the slot where the disc goes in.frustrsting for a new car:-(

how about another idler pully to keep the belt away from the pinion?

Asking questions is how you learn

The ezrun 25 A Esc and Tacon motor is a great combo. They are super smooth and work very well. You will be pleased with its performance. The program card is a huge plus to change settings on the Esc.

Many people arent having this promblem anymore, because everybody is running a brushless system, and these brushless motors are usally a 20mm motor, so you can mount the motor "offest" on the motor mount so it sits lower in the chassis and clears the belt

This thread is really queit! Does anyone own one of these cars anymore lol

Well, you pretty much said everything I would have said in response to the last few questions, so I can only agree.

Yup, own one and haven't had hardly any issues with it other than my piss-poor driving skills breaking something each time I take it out. LOL! I would like to find out how everyone is taking care of the slop in their trucks. Currently have titanium rods, aluminum steering assembly w/bearings, savox 0257MG servo, titanium turnbuckles, and the stock servo saver installed and there is still some wiggle from left to right. The servo seems to have problems returning to exact center no matter how much I adjust the trim. Can't seem to dial it in. Any suggestions?

My hitec 65mg servo does not center back perfectly at all. I have no idea why. It actually vibrates while it is trying to center back.

Chad, yes! The Savox does the same exact thing. There's gotta be a way to fix the issue. Anyone have any suggestions?

Mine does the same thing. It got worse when I put the long shocks on. I've been playing with adjustments and I got it about as good as I can. I'm also running the savox 0257 with aluminum steering. Turns great just won't center.

I have seen some servos that jitter around center when the gears are not greased well, the grease acts like a damper to calm it down basically. This is usually on cheaper stuff that doesnt come from the factory well greased though. Other than that it could be something mechanical on the truck. Try taking the servo arm off and feeling your steering components to make sure everything moves free with no binding.

I'm running everything stock on mine with no issues on servo not centering.

The only issue i have is needing little more speed. Lipo should be a the fix and later on upgrade of brushless system.

I don't think it's the servo because the stock servo did the same thing. The steering assembly pins seem lose in the top diff plate so I think I will replace it and see what happens. maybe glue the pins in the top plate. Or maybe the diff because it's noticable under hard to medium throttle. Low or coasting pretty straight. Running stock brushless setup with gear diffs.