Hey Mitch,

Finally i get it.... It`s the programbox that needs to be updated..
The only thing i cann think off is to wait for Cobra, or maybe somebody else cann help. For myself i just use the laptop and box to program my esc, so no need to update the lcd box.

Anyone using the xtreme stock with 1224STOCK firmware had green flashing (single flashes) on the side of the esc? Car just went into sensorless mode after 4-5 laps and stayed that way. I continued on sensorless hoping that it will come back but no luck ...

That means the esc was too hot is it not? But air temp was about 10-12°C. And I had already disabled the temp protection. Was using the esc with fan and it was not hot at all ...

Was running 13.5T motor with 26 Boost and 20 Turbo. Boost timing Acc #15 was 450rpm/°.

Any thoughts? How do I re-set the esc? Do I just upload the 518STOC firmware again and then re-load the 1224STOCK???

OKay this was my old setup for th 1224 software running 1/12 1S Novak 17.5 (15 deg end bell)

DDRS 6
9 30 degrees boost
10 9d / 0.1 sec
12 16 degrees turbo
13 1000 rpm
14 0.1 seconds
15 150 rpm

Motor temp was 125F
82mm RollOut

Last night I could only manage 10.8 laps with this setup (about .4 off my PR for last week, likely because of alittle less traction or something). I played with bring the timing up to higher levels, to try and increase lap times andmake the car work better.

DDRS 8
9 38 degrees boost
10 9d / 0.1 sec
12 8 degrees turbo
13 1000 rpm
14 0.1 seconds
15 150 rpm

Motor temp was 105F
80mm RollOut

The lap time improved by 0.2sec and the car was more consistant on the throttle, esp in the infield. There is no noticable dropoff at the end if the race, and I think the Rollout still needs to come down to 78,79mm. Overall, I could pass cars easier, and picked up a full lap with this setup.

Cheers,
Shawn.

You just need to check/change your sensor lead. It may have taken a knock or have some dirt in it.

+1

I would pick up a diffrent sensor wire anyway.

Confirming that i would also change the sensor wire also , check the plug pins on the motor also.
Then reset the esc to the radio

Mitch,

i did try it, there is no 110108 update for the programming box.
There is only a 1224 etc...

Maybe in the fututre there will be a update for the 110108 in the lcd box?
For now you cann only use the 1224 in the lcd box,

If you want to change settings of your esc at the track, you have to take your laptop with you, that does work.

PS. nice to see we could only use the lcd box at the track, never knew this...lol I`m know reading about it.

I tried today in the race the FW 1224 combined with the new engine Xerun 10.5, I managed to take third place in Amain, but unfortunately I had radio problems that did not allow me to conclude the final, the performance however, were exceptional, the engine is was the fastest on the track with exceptional acceleration very progressive, very low temperature, 45 ° C without any cooling system.

hi, what's settings do you have used?
i've tried the 11.5T settings with a novak ballistic 10.5 with quite bad results, low top speed

Ok......Daylight now and I got to Test my new Xerun 120 Amp v 2.0.
I am using the V1.62......with the 518 Stock software.
I am running it in my Associated B4 buggy with a 17.5 Turn Novak SS Pro motor (Silver Can)
Gearing is 78/35 (that was with my Novak GTB esc)
FDR is 5.79
I am very Happy with the results. Special thanks to Cherry2blost and his Hobbywing Tutorial on YouTube.The buggy ran nicely, (although its hard to judge an offroad buggy when you are running on asphalt in the street in front of your house). Motor temp was 109 deg F after 5 minutes of full throttle runs up and down the street, so I still have lots of room for adjustment of gearing and Timing. Here are my settings.

1 Running Mode...................forward only w/ brake
2 Drag Brake.......................0 %
3 Voltage Protection............3.2v/cell (2s lipo)
4 DRRS Punch...................7 (might have to lessen this setting in the dirt)
5 Brake Force.....................100% (might have to lessen this setting in the dirt)
6 Reverse Force..................100% (might have to lessen this setting in the dirt)
7 Initial Brake......................0%
8 Neutral Range..................9% normal
9 Boost Timing....................7
10 Overheat Protection.........enabled
12 Turbo Lvl .......................5
13 Start RPM Boost............5 (9000)
14 Turbo Delay...................5 (0.4sec)
15Timing Punch..................5 (-4)

These settings seem pretty conservative to me. Cant wait to get to the Track to really test it out.If anyone has Suggestions it would be most welcome.
Also,,,,,I have searched for an Offroad thread for Xerun, but come up empty. Hopefully, you guys wont mind helping me out with my offroad set up in this thread.....

Would start with playing with the boost settings and the rpm where it all happens, Think you could start with giving the boost at least 20 degrees and the start rpm around 4000, then around 400 rpm/degree climbing of the timing.

Start fine tuning those parameters and let the engine temp rule, look every 2 minutes after full racing..

When you get that right, start with the turbo..

Actually, a laptop is useless.. You can't change the settings with it.
You only need the box at the track..... (unless you want to upload a different firmware version)

One dead ESC
Programmed the ESC with new firmware, turned on transmitter, turned on ESC. Motor hit full throttle, quickly turned it off. Checked transmitter, etc all OK. Attempted to reclibrate and now ESC just beeps at me when I turn it on.

ive tried to download additional 101224 instructions from cobra and hw site but just a blank screen pops up??? Anywhere else i can view/print it OR pls pls someone email it to me!!

Also, hate to admit it to myself but i raced a big event in london today on carpet and turning power down = better laptimes!!!! I can drive reasonably well and pretty consistant but AS SOON as i plugged box in and dropped bhp down ever so slight, lap times got better (and thats all on old 518)

Then you got some training to do for using the extra horsepower...

Here the instructions (they are not for 1224, my fault):