COMPETITION HEAT INC.
#947
when you purchase the heater it comes with a small info booklet which explains all about the heater in there it mentions about the heater giving off smoke for a while then it goes away. also I wouldnt recommened anything under 5000mah 3s if you want to use the 12v model also get a low voltage monitor soldered on to stop the lipo dropping to low. I have a ttached a pic it gives off an alarm when drops below 9volts and has three different colored lights to indicated what voltage your battery is at. cheers

#948
Assuming we're trying to achieve between 180 and 200F?
Seems I read somewhere it took approx 15 minutes. Is this correct?
#949
15 minutes is about normal for the 120V unit. If I recall correctly, Tony stated that the 12V unit only takes about 5 minutes.
Instructions?..............It's the information that's provided with the product to inform the end user as to proper use of the said product.
I shoulda been a lawyer, right?

Instructions?..............It's the information that's provided with the product to inform the end user as to proper use of the said product.

I shoulda been a lawyer, right?

#950
ya they do smoke a little, my son did'nt know that tho and thought something was burning . so grabbed the cord to pull it off the engine but the heat element stayed there hence pulling the cord out... gotta say Dad was'nt too happy that night.. one of those things you just eat it and order another.. too great of a product not to have.
#951
For the 120v unit, it usually takes about 10 min to get engine up to temp. This engine warmer works very well, even in warm climates, I still use to minimize critical startup period and can tune as soon as I set car on the track.
#952
Yes, like Eric said, what I was describing was the method used to make the 110V heater capable of coming up to the staging area if there was no power there. This would only be needed if you had the 110V version.
If you have the 12V, all you need to do is plug it into a battery....my apologies for the confusion.
If you have the 12V, all you need to do is plug it into a battery....my apologies for the confusion.
#953

Being able to tune shortly after start-up with the Comp Heat is the icing on the cake.
#955
#957
"The 12 volt Comp Heater should only be powered from an 11.1v 3S Lipo battery, a 12v gel cell or car battery, or 12v power supply. Check power output and make sure it does not exceed 12V. When charging batteries only charge to 12V.
CAUTION: Some 12V power supplies produce a higher voltage. This will damage the heating element. Make sure maximum output does not exceed 12 volts.
WARNING: Do not use a power source higher than 12 volts.
Make sure your batteries are properly charged and balanced if using a Lipo battery. Follow all manufacturers’ warnings and directions.
We recommend using an 11.1v Lipo battery. Place battery inside your starter box separate from the battery used to power your starter box."
My starter battery peaks at 14.70 volts. Most "12 Volt" batteries have a higher voltage than "12 Volts".
Seems the confusion comes in from the label we've associated with batteries used to power our hobby needs and in the automotive world. While they are indeed "12 Volts", they often have peak and residual voltages well higher than 12 Volts.
#959
Then they wonder why it only lasted a couple of gallons.
#960
Yes, like Eric said, what I was describing was the method used to make the 110V heater capable of coming up to the staging area if there was no power there. This would only be needed if you had the 110V version.
If you have the 12V, all you need to do is plug it into a battery....my apologies for the confusion.
If you have the 12V, all you need to do is plug it into a battery....my apologies for the confusion.




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