as far as I am aware they give out the same heat and perform virtually the same so if you have good mains power access go the 110v , I use the 12v which is great but you have to have your batteries organised to have it heat the bestthe only reason why I went 12v is that we have no mains power at our track
cheers

Thank you.

Another good reason for the 12V heater is so you can take it to the pit lane with you.

At some of the larger events, where you have to walk a significant distance from the pits, then wait for more than just a couple of minutes to start your race, the motor can cool off. If you have the 12V heater running off an extra battery in your starter box, you can keep the heater on until the very last minute.

Of course, there's a way around that too. Some of the guys that I race with took a little wagon and built a plywood platform on it. Under the platform was a 12V deep cycle marine battery and power inverter. They just put their cars on top of it, plugged the heaters into the inverter, and walked the hole thing to the drivers stand. Added bonus was it made toting all their stuff up to the track much easier, since they weren't carrying everything.

Of course, that means you'd have to bring a wagon, inverter, marine battery, etc...with you to the event. You'd also have the cost of purchasing all of that if you didn't already have it. For convenience, and probably a little less money overall (heater + battery) having a 110V and 12V is the ticket. I've got the 110V version, but I'll likely get a 12V as well, just so I can have it on hand if needed.

Eric, I just picked up a new XZ-B Speed, and I'm about to break it in. This will be the first motor I've had to break in from "fresh out of the box".

Before starting, I'll be cycling it with the heater. In some previous posts you said "On my new engines, before starting, I will heat cycle the engine 3 times, bring it up to 180-200 and let it cool, repeat 2 more times."

Question on that...do you have the piston at BDC, TDC, somewhere in between, or have you found that position doesn't matter at all?

Thanks....

Before starting, I'll be cycling it with the heater. In some previous posts you said "On my new engines, before starting, I will heat cycle the engine 3 times, bring it up to 180-200 and let it cool, repeat 2 more times."

Question on that...do you have the piston at BDC, TDC, somewhere in between, or have you found that position doesn't matter at all?

Thanks....[/QUOTE]

there is a good read up in the engine section called the break in bible give that a go and your engines will start better run better and last longer, I always heat my engines no matter what, they just seem to always start without any problems. as for piston position on cool down just make sure your flywheel is free and you wont have any lock on cool down. cheers

As close to BDC as possible. Also, after heat cycling it's alway's a good idea to check head screws and carb to make sure they are tight after letting the materials expand and contract.

On another note, I just returned from Helena, Al and Alan Burtons new track "The Warehouse". All I can say is Alan and his guy's have done a great job with this new indoor facility. For anyone out there that's having nitro withdrawals already this winter, it's most definately worth the trip, they run a very efficient program along with a great track layout. Well done guy's.

We have many Competition Heat dealers out there and I recommend purchasing our products through them.

They both have there advantages really. The 120V Comp Heater is great for breaking in engines while our 12V is great for pre-heating in pit lane while waiting for your race to come up. Most who have purchased the 120V usually end up with the 12V and vise versa.

Thank you Eric. We plan to keep making improvements and making the warehouse exciting for racers! I really love your products and will put the new 12volt to action soon. My original heater had 100 break INS on it coupled with the wear and tear of travel all over the country and use at events. Guys if you don't have one try to get one. It's a one time purchase and should give you many seasons of action!

Ok, you just talked me out of buying a heater, lol.

Before we developed the 12V Comp Heater, Stubbs was referring to the way guy's were setting up their heaters to be portable. We saw this last year at PNB, some had car batteries with a inverter on a cart for portable heating. All you need now is a 3S lipo.

Of those using a 3S LiPo:

-What capacity in mAh are you using?
-What C rating (15C, 20C, etc)?
-Are any of you using this 3S battery to power both your starter box AND the heater? Or are you using the 3S battery specifically for the heater and using a separate battery for your starter box?

Is it normal that the heater smokes ONLY when on the head. Could it be the burn off of fuel/dirt or whatever. It works fine, but just smokes. This is a fairly new heater.

the 12V heaters only draw about 5 amps.......................this would be 2C on a 2500mah battery. It's not like you need a lipo for an 1/8 scale e-truggy. A 3-cell 2500mah battery would give you about 6 (six) 5 minute heat cycles per charge.

New heaters will smoke for the 1st few uses ( this is normal). I seem to remember reading that in the Instructions a few months back.