20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
01-06-2011 | 02:53 PM
#1366
Micro screw driver. Should be able to get the blade into the E and wedge the clip out.
01-06-2011 | 03:03 PM
#1368
Better Way to Free up Ball Cups
http://www.google.com/search?q=ball+...5733a97aebfa72
Take your pick. These are made to stretch your ball ends on Helis. Much easier than making your own and very economic. Hobby King sells them for like 3 bucks. I carry one everywhere I go. Just make sure you don't over do it or you will end with over-stretched ball cups.
Take your pick. These are made to stretch your ball ends on Helis. Much easier than making your own and very economic. Hobby King sells them for like 3 bucks. I carry one everywhere I go. Just make sure you don't over do it or you will end with over-stretched ball cups.
01-06-2011 | 03:38 PM
#1369
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 198
From: Germany
greetings
01-06-2011 | 05:06 PM
#1370
http://www.google.com/search?q=ball+...5733a97aebfa72
Take your pick. These are made to stretch your ball ends on Helis. Much easier than making your own and very economic. Hobby King sells them for like 3 bucks. I carry one everywhere I go. Just make sure you don't over do it or you will end with over-stretched ball cups.
Take your pick. These are made to stretch your ball ends on Helis. Much easier than making your own and very economic. Hobby King sells them for like 3 bucks. I carry one everywhere I go. Just make sure you don't over do it or you will end with over-stretched ball cups.
01-06-2011 | 06:43 PM
#1373
01-07-2011 | 05:47 AM
#1374
01-07-2011 | 07:28 AM
#1375
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 138
From: Danville, CA
The past month we have been running on a carpet track with low to medium traction, and the surface temperature has been low (45 to 55 degrees). Using the 7A rear camber link with a silver ball stud and 1mm roll center spacing really helped hook up the rear end compared to Keven's Halloween setup.
Once it warms up, if your track develops a groove quickly, or at bigger races, 7A may not allow enough rotation, but in the right conditions, it's a great option.
Note that this is closer to the manual setup. Several folks were experiencing over-rotation with the short rear camber link, and 7A will help. We also have been running a little more droop and rear toe-in and unhooked the rear swaybar.
Cheers!
Once it warms up, if your track develops a groove quickly, or at bigger races, 7A may not allow enough rotation, but in the right conditions, it's a great option.
Note that this is closer to the manual setup. Several folks were experiencing over-rotation with the short rear camber link, and 7A will help. We also have been running a little more droop and rear toe-in and unhooked the rear swaybar.
Cheers!
Last edited by Lebatek; 01-07-2011 at 08:37 AM.
01-07-2011 | 08:27 AM
#1376
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,486
Does anybody have the part number to the plastic diff wing nut that the holds the actual diff nut? the manual states 31166 but that is a tc5 diff rebuild with rings and all and doesn't seem to even have the plastic piece.
01-07-2011 | 09:52 AM
#1378
Ok, I am going to atempt to help any one who is having troubles with your
TC6 ball cups.
I was taught a long time ago when I got into Helis is there is a right way to install ball cups of this type. There is one side that is different from the other. The side with the numbers on them is molded differently than the other side. The side with the numbers has a larger opening and needs to be placed so the numbers face the ball you are snappiong them on to.
In these pictures you can see the difference in the two sides.
Another thing I learned when I got into helis is a neat way to perfectly size a tight ball cup. Squeezing a ball cup works in a pinch but alot of times isn't a permanent fix. What I am going to show you is not only easy but will make the cups fit perfectly.
1st take a spare ball of the proper size. Not all balls are the same. LOL
Take a side cutter grab and squeeze the ball stud two different times 90* apart.
Squezze pretty hard as you ar trying to cut into the ballstud. You should now have 4 cuts 90* apart.
Once you have done this, click the ballstud into your favorite drill.
Pop a ball cup onto the ballstud and spin the drill for a few seconds.
Different drills spin at different speeds so it will take a couple of times to figure how much you will need. Also some cups will be tighter than others. So take your time. After you spin it for a few seconds check it on the car. If it is still tight do it again until it is perfect. I usually get all my tierods setup first then size them as needed. It also makes it easier to hold. Once you get a feel for how long to spin the drill it will go really fast.
I hope this will help those of you having trouble with the fit of your ball cups. Also those of you who think yours are pretty good, give it a shot. I think every one will soon see that AE didn't make a mistake with their molds. They made very good cups that with a little TLC fit absolutely perfect.
TC6 ball cups.
I was taught a long time ago when I got into Helis is there is a right way to install ball cups of this type. There is one side that is different from the other. The side with the numbers on them is molded differently than the other side. The side with the numbers has a larger opening and needs to be placed so the numbers face the ball you are snappiong them on to.
In these pictures you can see the difference in the two sides.
Another thing I learned when I got into helis is a neat way to perfectly size a tight ball cup. Squeezing a ball cup works in a pinch but alot of times isn't a permanent fix. What I am going to show you is not only easy but will make the cups fit perfectly.
1st take a spare ball of the proper size. Not all balls are the same. LOL
Take a side cutter grab and squeeze the ball stud two different times 90* apart.Squezze pretty hard as you ar trying to cut into the ballstud. You should now have 4 cuts 90* apart.
Once you have done this, click the ballstud into your favorite drill.
Pop a ball cup onto the ballstud and spin the drill for a few seconds.
Different drills spin at different speeds so it will take a couple of times to figure how much you will need. Also some cups will be tighter than others. So take your time. After you spin it for a few seconds check it on the car. If it is still tight do it again until it is perfect. I usually get all my tierods setup first then size them as needed. It also makes it easier to hold. Once you get a feel for how long to spin the drill it will go really fast.
I hope this will help those of you having trouble with the fit of your ball cups. Also those of you who think yours are pretty good, give it a shot. I think every one will soon see that AE didn't make a mistake with their molds. They made very good cups that with a little TLC fit absolutely perfect.
Thank you Cookie! Excellent post!
01-07-2011 | 05:10 PM
#1379
I've been looking for the same part, I don't think they have released it yet.
01-07-2011 | 05:28 PM
#1380
Got my TC6 kit today! The Big Brown Truck just dropped it off.
Guess what? Yup, one of the bulkheads has the now classic oversize hole with no threads! That's a fraternity I didn't want to join. Gonna have to give AE a call tomorrow first thing.
I'm probably going to go ahead and assemble all of the other sub assemblies, just to make sure nothing else is missing!
Guess what? Yup, one of the bulkheads has the now classic oversize hole with no threads! That's a fraternity I didn't want to join. Gonna have to give AE a call tomorrow first thing.
I'm probably going to go ahead and assemble all of the other sub assemblies, just to make sure nothing else is missing!
I went ahead and put the rest of the car together. Everything else was there, algthough I swapped out some of the arm mount bushing hardware for longer stuff. I'm not satisfied unless I have full thread engagement through the bulkhead with the shims that I'm using. Did the same thing with the TC5, and it made a huge difference to crash survivability.
I also sub'd in some ceramic diff and thrust bearing balls (thanks MurffDog motors). Using the tqcookie ball scrubbing method and orienting the numbers correctly towards the ball, I was able to loosen up the ball ends pretty good, at least good enough for a first run when my replacement bulkhead comes in. A 78 tooth standard Kimbrough spur fit fine, and allows the use of the bottom and front mount holes. The pinion seems to fit and engage better with the stem away from the motor vice against the motor. Actually makes it easier to get to the set screw, too.
On another positive note, I'm mega pleased to note that the steering bellcrank has NO play in the bearings or the bellcrank tube. The TC5 is terrible for slop in this area, even with brand new parts and shimming and using locktite on the outer bearing races, but the TC6 is nice and slop free!
Test fit with the TOP velcro strap is a 100% good to go! Although I'm going to buy another inner lipo brace and mount one front and rear for extra insurance to keep the battery out of the belt.
Now, just waiting on Associated for my bulkhead and Tekin for my RS.
Last edited by Buckaroo; 01-07-2011 at 05:39 PM.