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Old 10-06-2010 | 08:26 PM
  #9541  
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Originally Posted by losi_racer
hmmm, still wonder if it was a running change, first the shrink wrap, then board and plug. How long ago did you get the lipos? jw cause i havent seen the red plug in a while at least in lhs
Just about a year ago give or take a month or two was when I got those 2. It was definitely a running change. I believe sometime around the beginning of this summer is when they made the change and got rid of the boards. That was when I first saw the new ones anyway. I have 3 of the new ones that I bought a few months ago. Like I said, the 2 old ones have been fine, but they definitely have boards in them. I cut one open to check.
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Old 10-06-2010 | 08:29 PM
  #9542  
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Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY
Just about a year ago give or take a month or two was when I got those 2. It was definitely a running change. I believe sometime around the beginning of this summer is when they made the change and got rid of the boards. That was when I first saw the new ones anyway. I have 3 of the new ones that I bought a few months ago. Like I said, the 2 old ones have been fine, but they definitely have boards in them. I cut one open to check.
ok gotcha. I say just get a dynamite and be safe lol, its the same as a losi lipo and like 5-10 bucks cheaper
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Old 10-06-2010 | 08:31 PM
  #9543  
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Originally Posted by losi_racer
ok gotcha. I say just get a dynamite and be safe lol, its the same as a losi lipo and like 5-10 bucks cheaper
But then it doesn't say losi on it. Yeah I agree, the dynamite packs are identical.
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Old 10-06-2010 | 08:34 PM
  #9544  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
you guys will probetly think this is funny well i got the 2.0 outer rear hinge pins and i had to use the 2.0 rear hubs also well it was getting late and i had to get done my truggy. and i was thinking that on the hub i was assuming that, the 3 hole on the rear hub was the a hole well it was the b hole well i went to race yeterday and kept on wondering why in the hell i cant get my rear to rotate right without useing the brakes lol.


so on the 2.0 rear hub is it ok to use the a hole on the hub with the #4 on the rear shock tower ? i just mounted it in the a hole on the rear hub with the #4 on the tower i just need to adjust the camber again .


or should i run a diffrent postion on the tower holes ?




anybody know ?
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Old 10-06-2010 | 08:35 PM
  #9545  
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Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY
But then it doesn't say losi on it. Yeah I agree, the dynamite packs are identical.
lol i have plenty of stickers HA HA HA
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Old 10-06-2010 | 08:38 PM
  #9546  
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Originally Posted by Integra
yup, ive ran a 45 with a good 8-10 min warm up and took 650mah, this was in Buggy @ the 08 Canadian Winter Nationals.



no mods what so ever, use the flat lid and i put a piece of Dubro 1/2" foam in the lid to fill the extra head room.
I have 2 of these batteries like Integra has, cheap, 2 900 mah for 10 bucks shipped, used them for practice, had no problems at all, I have even seen them 3 or 4 for 10 bucks shipped on ebay.
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Old 10-06-2010 | 08:38 PM
  #9547  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
anybody know ?
I'm not completely sure what you're asking. The 2.0 rear hubs have the extra hole on the inside, meaning the that stock 1.0 settings would be 4/B.
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Old 10-06-2010 | 08:40 PM
  #9548  
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Originally Posted by hambone
How has the proline bulldog body been holding up? I like the look and the price over the stock truggy body.
I've run a Bulldog for around 2-gallons.

Still going strong; not cracked or starting to crack.

Has a little war wound on the left front where it got pinched in the front shock at some point where I didn't trim the wheelwell back enough; but other than that she's good.

It flexes quite a bit more than the stock body in the bed area, but seems tough.

If you like the styling I'd say it's a fine choice and certainly isn't worse than the stocker. At least it hasn't been for me.
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Old 10-06-2010 | 08:50 PM
  #9549  
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Originally Posted by pyromania
I'm not completely sure what you're asking. The 2.0 rear hubs have the extra hole on the inside, meaning the that stock 1.0 settings would be 4/B.


well with the 1.0 rear hubs i used the 4/A to get the most rotation so with the 2.0 rear hubs i would use the extra hole that is the a hole than i would use the #4 on the camber link on the tower right ?

i hated the stock b hole on the hub with 1.0 .
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Old 10-06-2010 | 08:51 PM
  #9550  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
well with the 1.0 rear hubs i used the 4/A to get the most rotation so with the 2.0 rear hubs i would use the extra hole that is the a hole than i would use the #4 on the camber link on the tower right ?

i hated the stock b hole on the hub with 1.0 .
the best advice i can give you is try it.
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Old 10-06-2010 | 08:53 PM
  #9551  
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Originally Posted by losi_racer
the best advice i can give you is try it.
+1

We're not going to be able to tell you if it would work for you.

But here is a diagram on how the holes are laid out:

(c)(b)(a) : 1.0
(d)(c)(b)(a) : 2.0

So if you want the settings you had before, you would use the b hole on the 2.0 hub.
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Old 10-06-2010 | 08:55 PM
  #9552  
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Originally Posted by losi_racer
the best advice i can give you is try it.

ok than i will use the a hole on the 2.0 hubs and the #4 camber link on the tower. i know i have to readjust the camber
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Old 10-07-2010 | 12:49 AM
  #9553  
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This question will probably get moved but in my 8t 2.0 i use a 3pk/2.4 fasst
r603fs receiver with fut S9157 for the steering and a BLS451 on throttle and the losi lipo. Will i toast it if i get rid of the regulator? Haven't had any regulator failures but i would like to get rid of the reg and switch. That would clean things up alot as it's a real pain packing all that stuff in the rec compartment. The steering servo has 425oz of torque at 6.0 volt, God knows what that would end up being. Please don't suggest a servo brand change cuz it isn't happening, futaba has been very reliable for me. I guess if the system won't hold up unregulated i'll try the switchless regulator.
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Old 10-07-2010 | 05:10 AM
  #9554  
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Originally Posted by hambone
This question will probably get moved but in my 8t 2.0 i use a 3pk/2.4 fasst
r603fs receiver with fut S9157 for the steering and a BLS451 on throttle and the losi lipo. Will i toast it if i get rid of the regulator? Haven't had any regulator failures but i would like to get rid of the reg and switch. That would clean things up alot as it's a real pain packing all that stuff in the rec compartment. The steering servo has 425oz of torque at 6.0 volt, God knows what that would end up being. Please don't suggest a servo brand change cuz it isn't happening, futaba has been very reliable for me. I guess if the system won't hold up unregulated i'll try the switchless regulator.
Futaba is not rated for unregulated lipo use.
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Old 10-07-2010 | 05:22 AM
  #9555  
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Originally Posted by pyromania
+1

We're not going to be able to tell you if it would work for you.

But here is a diagram on how the holes are laid out:

(c)(b)(a) : 1.0
(d)(c)(b)(a) : 2.0

So if you want the settings you had before, you would use the b hole on the 2.0 hub.


so if i want the settings i had before i would use the b hole on the 2.0 hubs with what number camber link on the 1.0 t rear tower would it be the stock hole that the 1.0 t manuel says ?
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