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Old 10-06-2010 | 04:24 AM
  #12241  
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Originally Posted by mtbkym01
Got my 2 66X's on their way from Mark, very excited to get these bad boy's broken in
cool, enjoy
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Old 10-06-2010 | 05:20 AM
  #12242  
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Originally Posted by MAGPIE-121
leave the front & rear tubing out to allow air flow through the fins, just the 2 sides need the tubing, something like this :-




I have not broken one fin since I started doing this, tho I have them front, back and both sides little pieces cut at about 5mm squeezed in like photo tho I have them on the out side not all the way in like the photo only in about 2mm from outer edge between every fin.





It mainly happens from the harmonics from the engine as Grizz mentioned.

Last edited by Flanno; 10-06-2010 at 05:59 AM.
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Old 10-06-2010 | 08:41 AM
  #12243  
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Any ideas why i get fuel in the bottom of the chassis near to where the engine connects to the car. I know i am still running a little rich (until I meet up with Dave G tomorrow night as he is going to lend a hand fine tuning my engine)
I have checked for air leaks and the back plate screws as fully secured but just I have cleaned the car and just had it running in the garage and there seems to be a lot of fuel.

I am using now two springs to connect the exhaust to the engine. The 3 small springs on the exhaust seem fine. any ideas please

Thanks
Simon
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Old 10-06-2010 | 08:52 AM
  #12244  
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Originally Posted by scurr
Any ideas why i get fuel in the bottom of the chassis near to where the engine connects to the car. I know i am still running a little rich (until I meet up with Dave G tomorrow night as he is going to lend a hand fine tuning my engine)
I have checked for air leaks and the back plate screws as fully secured but just I have cleaned the car and just had it running in the garage and there seems to be a lot of fuel.

I am using now two springs to connect the exhaust to the engine. The 3 small springs on the exhaust seem fine. any ideas please

Thanks
Simon
Let me guesse your at about 1.5 gallons on this motor? I would say its the front engine bearing leaking. they need replacement after the first gallon or so.
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Old 10-06-2010 | 08:58 AM
  #12245  
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Originally Posted by rider313
Let me guesse your at about 1.5 gallons on this motor? I would say its the front engine bearing leaking. they need replacement after the first gallon or so.
I am only about 3/4 of a gallon and it seems to have done since i got the new engine. Is there any special way to put the engine on to the engine and also the 3 springs which also joins the exhaust, and also the height where it sits in the buggy (using the grub screw etc) me thinks may be its not sit right rather than been a bearing.
I replaced the clutch and bearings last night, i guess you mean another front bearing if so where and how easy to do??

Thanks in advance
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Old 10-06-2010 | 10:03 AM
  #12246  
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Originally Posted by scurr
I am only about 3/4 of a gallon and it seems to have done since i got the new engine. Is there any special way to put the engine on to the engine and also the 3 springs which also joins the exhaust, and also the height where it sits in the buggy (using the grub screw etc) me thinks may be its not sit right rather than been a bearing.
I replaced the clutch and bearings last night, i guess you mean another front bearing if so where and how easy to do??

Thanks in advance
It is the bearing right behind the fly wheel. The blue arrow in the atached pic points to it. the easy way to tell it this bearin is leaking it to take the motor out of your car and look at the bottom. if it has fuel/dirt built up it is the fron bearing. Also when you are done running do you run your motor dry of fuel??

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Old 10-06-2010 | 10:37 AM
  #12247  
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Thanks for that post mate its spot on

Just checked and the engine underneath is bone dry so seems to be coming from around the exhaust
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Old 10-06-2010 | 12:03 PM
  #12248  
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is that the MGX head flanno ?
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Old 10-06-2010 | 01:09 PM
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i just won a bid for a new gx-7r combo for $240 shipped , it seemed like a good deal i know i want the engine but i know nothing about there pipes, any good???
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Old 10-06-2010 | 01:12 PM
  #12250  
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Originally Posted by nitrozilla
i just won a bid for a new gx-7r combo for $240 shipped , it seemed like a good deal i know i want the engine but i know nothing about there pipes, any good???
great pipes!
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Old 10-06-2010 | 01:50 PM
  #12251  
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+1 on that. awesome pipe. A+ if i might say. lol
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Old 10-06-2010 | 03:41 PM
  #12252  
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Originally Posted by nitrozilla
i just won a bid for a new gx-7r combo for $240 shipped , it seemed like a good deal i know i want the engine but i know nothing about there pipes, any good???
Was it the EFRA 2072 pipe or the IFMAR 0801 pipe ?
The combo kits come with either pipe depending on what the distributor orders.

Both pipes are very good, but IMO the 2072 is the better performer, plus it has the reinforced stinger and is much stronger pipe all round.
You will enjoy the motor, just check up on the run in and tuning tips at www.go-racing.co.nz on the Tech Tips page.
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Old 10-06-2010 | 03:59 PM
  #12253  
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Originally Posted by inferno13
im not a quiter!!!!! lol...if i was i would have stopped working on this long ago, are the fins coming loose a problem with these? ive seen a few go motors forsale on here and alot of them say they have loose fins but not interfere with the performance of the engine....bla...bla...., i did pull the carb out today and noticed the bottom o-ring in carb opening was torn and sticking out. i threw a nova head on it (dint like the rattleing noise) also bought some p3 and od97t today, also tossed a new rod in it just incase, im not giving up on it! thanks alot all for trying to help out, and as grizz said in past post "just being silly" well i can tell him what is silly and it's not me!!
have you checked the inside lip of your clutch fly wheel ? If you take yoru flywheel off and look at the collett and it has scuff marking on it there is a chance the collett has gouged out a bit of the flywheel material .. It will feel tight when you wrench on it but under load it will slip indipendantly of the crank and seem like lean bog.

Ok So take off the flywheel , look inside where the collett goes and see if you can see a lip .. if its there get a new flywheel and collett and tighten the suckker down hard !

If thats not it then you have to ask why is the engine lean bogging ? It will only lean bog if its starving for fuel. or if its making power but cant get it to the wheels because of something in the drive train.

Lean bog can develop over time if the engine was run in cold
Any sort of Air leak in the tank , pipe , seals , pressure line
HSN needle dirty
Head bolts loose


I think the problem is outside the engine .. check the clutch first ..

hope this helps

Cheers MM
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Old 10-06-2010 | 04:06 PM
  #12254  
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Originally Posted by MAGPIE-121
is that the MGX head flanno ?
yep
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Old 10-06-2010 | 04:21 PM
  #12255  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
High resonance vibration from the motor.
Cut 4 x pieces of fuel tubing and fit them between the middle most fins on the front, rear and both sides.
The middle fins are the most affected by this vibration. The fuel tubing will stop the fins coming loose 80 - 90% of the time.
This is not an uncommon thing, and happens on a lot of nitro engines.
Another thing that can influence the fins breaking is if the body is touching the fins anywhere. Make sure your body is cut well away from the cooling head.
The exact resonant frequency is 1400 HZ .. lower mid range in the GX series and its a little higher on the MG being 4300 HZ . this is a frequency harmonic caused by the vibration energy of the engine, this in turn causes the fins to resonate. the reason why they break is because the radius at the base of the fin is not broad enough to resist the frequency vibration. this is something we are addressing and have been for a while now with a fix just around the corner. the quick fix for now is to put some fuel tubing as seen with Flanno's head. this absorbs the vibration between the fins.

Hope this helps

MM
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