For servos generally available in Europe you can't beat the Futaba S9650. I run JR Z3650 but they are only available in the USA as far as I know.

Trev

I will be running a RS. I can't decide between running a receiver battery or booseter. What are the cons if any for both?

booster con,you have 2 switches
rx pack con is you have to charge every couple runs,
some may have a more detailed post

try finding a proline or a racer edge camber gauge

Looks like there are very few choices in tires at rc4less these days. Anyone know if they are going to keep offering 1/12th scale tires?

For my money it's a booster , that way you don't run the risk of the battery receiver pack going dead if you forget to charge.As far as the two switches I put "ShooGoo" over the switch I don't use so that there isn't any chance of turning the wrong switch.

I had a booster go bad on me out of the blue. Since then, I only run RX packs. Our HS doesn't stock boosters and I'm not carrying an extra in my box.

As far as people saying things about forgetting to charge the RX pack, I ask, Do you forget to charge your other battery too? I'm sure there are people who forget to charge their batteries, both main pack and RX pack but, I have a dual charger and all I do is top one while I'm charging the other.

Some people only have a single charger and charging the main pack and a receiver pack in time for the next heat can be a problem. Again it is all about personal preference. So don't slam my opinion and try to make out like I am a dumbass!

I would like to cross post this here, as the "proper" thread is made up of mostly 2s users.

First pan car, bought the Speed Passion Cirtix club spec system, as there is a group of racers using it successfully in SOCAL (and probably many other places).

Anyway, cut trimmed and soldered everything in place last night, plan on using a receiver pack.

Here is the rest of my post as it apears in the other thread. Any help in sorting it out will be appreciated.

"New car build. using a receiver pack, I first bound a Spektrum micro receiver using a receiver battery. I then calibrated the esc to my radio using a 7.4 volt pack, no receiver pack.

The only way I can get a response from the motor is with the receiver pack plugged in, the 1s battery plugged in and the center wire attached to the plug and plugged in. Esc power switch in off position.

Without center wire, nothing. on or off".

Is there a solution (other than using a booster) to this issue, or is this the way it should work? I would think isolating the 2 batteries would be essential.

Thanks.

Hey guys...for those of you that use the 'original' Associated front end, I have a bunch of new parts for ya. Alum caster blocks, plastic caster blocks, hingepins w/spacers, kingpins, BMI-style large diameter front springs, BMI alum lower arm spacers (from 3mm-5.5mm), lower arms AND lowered lower arms. I also have NIB Jacos' - (5) pair of Dbl Pink Rears, (2) pair of Purple Fronts and (1) pair of Lilac Fronts.
Not too interested in splittin' everything up but not opposed to it. Get at me thru a PM if you're interested

Lilac front hmmm.....

What center wire, what plug? If you are talking about the red center wire on the esc wiring harnes, with Tekins you need to leave that in. Not sure about SP's

Might want to check with "evilgrafix" he seems to be the expert on
12th scale cars and set ups!

Yes, I am referring to the "power" wire from the esc.

My concern is if I leave it connected, then run a receiver pack (in this case a 6.6v life) won't the car's total electronics "see" over 10 volts?

It's one thing to get the magic smoke through failure of the electronics, it's another to cause it.

On Tekins, no. I doubt a SP would either but I don't know for sure.

Tekins you leave the wire in and turn both switches on. It will work with the esc switch off but then you have no voltage cutoff.

Besides, I saw an ad for a guy selling genuine Lucas replacement smoke so it's all good