2991Likes1/12 forum
09-23-2010 | 04:53 PM
But TOY car racers...
And using Niftech is such a pleasant experience compared to the others (ESPECIALLY Jack the Slimer)...daub it on, let the carrier evaporate off. No greasy, oily, nasty gooey tires to deal with, wipe, rub on your belly (yes, I've seen your shirts...) OR GET ALL OVER THE TRACK.
But TOY car racers...
09-23-2010 | 05:25 PM
gotta love how a discussion on traction compound brings out all of the 1/12th scale lovers.
Ian - your promoting really hard man that you'll even take that messy ass wiring job at your race. i think you need to raise your standards 
09-23-2010 | 05:33 PM
when i got back into racing my local track, 360 rc speedway - rip, used to run black can paragon. grip was always amazing. 360 closed... and now i run at horsham rc and last year we used jack until we couldn't buy it anymore and started using either SXT v3 or sticky fingers. if you're lucky enough to have a bunch of racers jack/sxt/sticky is fine, but if you have a smaller crew you NEED ground effects (and maybe some aspirin, or a stiff drink as that stuff just smells)
09-23-2010 | 05:34 PM
Tech Master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,259
From: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
As far as the axle they are all pretty much the same...where I have problems is in what attaches to the axle like the hubs. Previous to my Copperhead I had to over tighten the IRS left side hub to keep it from slipping and as a result cracked 3 of them right where the screw head goes through. The IRS left side hub on my Copperhead has not had this issue. I think it has to do with it being re-annodized. It just seems to hold better without using a gorilla grip to tighten it. I rather like the angle of the slot on the CRC axle better because when you tighten it up the 2 sides meet more flush and will have less propensity to crack. However the one I had the wheel screw holes were all crooked (Probably just got one that slipped through inspection). But I wouldn't worry about that as all the ones I have seen on friends cars since then have been straight. My favorite left side hub though was the thread on one that AE used to use. Never had to worry about a balance issue and it never slipped on the axle. The problem though was in axle spacing...there was pretty much only 1 width you could run with it. I also heard some people had issues with the threaded part coming out of the axle.
09-23-2010 | 05:40 PM
the more i think about it.. i actually think rubber TC is more effected by traction compounds (and track conditions) than pan cars with good tires (i.e. 1/12th... and not hard spec wgt tires). prior to vegas i practiced at a big but dirty track. my 1/12th scale felt great there although it was sprung really heavy.. such that i could of never driven it like that at IIC. on the other had my touring cars were complete piles spinning out under acceleration.
09-23-2010 | 06:00 PM
Tech Champion
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,191
From: Hawaii, USA
Hi mate, I have used several differant 'US' type axles, and found by putting a very small spacer, or washer on the hub that clamps onto the axle, you can do the screw up tight enough so that it does not slip on the axle, but no so tight that it puts excessive force onto the axle itself. The spacer/washer goes on the threaded part of the screw between the two halves that clamp together once you have tightened the screw. Hope that makes sense. I would also say that my favorite axle is the Corally axle that takes the Corally type wheels. The design is really superb, but it will only fit on Corally chassis's of course.
09-23-2010 | 07:41 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,192
From: San Francisco
The Niftech part # for their hollow axle is 1005, the diff hub is #1011 (disclaimer: the Niftech catalog is confusing so no guarantee on the #s). Their left side hub is a thing of beauty but pretty bulky. It also used to be too wide but with brushless motor pods moved to the right it will probably work. I just use an IRS left hub.
The Niftech diff is pinned for their "Rocket" diff rings, D rings won't fit. So when you've bought the whole deal the cost is over $100.00, but IMO well worth it
09-23-2010 | 07:47 PM
Have you seen Niftech's website? I don't think it has been updated recently. The product lineup is out dated.
http://niftech.com/
http://niftech.com/
09-23-2010 | 09:30 PM
09-23-2010 | 09:38 PM
j/k Dirla.......
09-23-2010 | 10:24 PM
Something we did for our 2-day race last spring was put some Jack in a spray bottle and spray a little down in a strip on the straight on Friday when the track was completed. This tracked around and the track grooved in very nicely. No one, even the out-of-towners who often complained about the traction, had a lack of grip.
09-23-2010 | 10:28 PM
Go figure...works great for me and several folks here. On our track about 2/3-3/4 have been running Niftech for about 3 years now, the rest generally use Jack.
Something we did for our 2-day race last spring was put some Jack in a spray bottle and spray a little down in a strip on the straight on Friday when the track was completed. This tracked around and the track grooved in very nicely. No one, even the out-of-towners who often complained about the traction, had a lack of grip.
Something we did for our 2-day race last spring was put some Jack in a spray bottle and spray a little down in a strip on the straight on Friday when the track was completed. This tracked around and the track grooved in very nicely. No one, even the out-of-towners who often complained about the traction, had a lack of grip.
09-24-2010 | 08:52 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,920
Hi guys
I am new to 1/12th scale , i have just bough my 1st a Corally 12SL
i plan to use my Tekin RS speedo and a 13.5 motor , but how do i go about boosting my Lipo voltage from 3.7v to the needed voltage for the servo and reciever ???
also how bigger lipo will i need ?? 5000 or bigger ??
Thanks Phil
I am new to 1/12th scale , i have just bough my 1st a Corally 12SL
i plan to use my Tekin RS speedo and a 13.5 motor , but how do i go about boosting my Lipo voltage from 3.7v to the needed voltage for the servo and reciever ???
also how bigger lipo will i need ?? 5000 or bigger ??
Thanks Phil