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Old 09-15-2010 | 10:17 AM
  #541  
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Originally Posted by YBSLOW
Probably not listed on the website anymore? Not sure, but I bet if you call them they might be able to order one for you or may even have one in stock. I know they have a lot of inventory.

Maybe Ashford? They use to carry alot of RB stuff.
I will make that call, I know I can still find a Con Rod but even if I could just find a piston will be great, I never pinched a sleeve before so do you know if these would be a good thing to try on a motor with 3 gals gone threw it ?
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Old 09-15-2010 | 12:23 PM
  #542  
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Originally Posted by BigC2007
I will make that call, I know I can still find a Con Rod but even if I could just find a piston will be great, I never pinched a sleeve before so do you know if these would be a good thing to try on a motor with 3 gals gone threw it ?
If you only have three gallons thru it, I would just change the rod and I bet it would be good for another couple of gallons if not more.

The C10's I am running now I break in for 2 gallons , then change the rod and race them for three gallons before they need a P/S.
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Old 09-15-2010 | 12:27 PM
  #543  
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Originally Posted by YBSLOW
If you only have three gallons thru it, I would just change the rod and I bet it would be good for another couple of gallons if not more.

The C10's I am running now I break in for 2 gallons , then change the rod and race them for three gallons before they need a P/S.
Thanks again Bro, this is some good info mind you that this is my 1st time ever owning and running a RB Motor.
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Old 09-15-2010 | 09:56 PM
  #544  
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Originally Posted by DS Motorsport
Yes, no problem.
For bearings I would advice you to stick with the RB ones, RB uses 9 balls for the rear bearing and they are far better as the 11 ball version which nova makes.



Basically the Rb 2604 '2009', Nova 2660 or the 2662 from Capricorn.

The 2604 I would describe as an allround pipe, it gives a good amount of mid end power and makes for a nice linear engine. Also easy to tune and easy on the fuel milage.
The 2660 gives the engine more top end power, and uses a bit more fuel.
The 2662 gives the engine heaps of mid and top end power but uses quite a lot of fuel and made it a bit harder to tune, but the most overall power.
so the nova 7601 fits the RB engines?

can i use nova crankshaft in mine? lol.
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Old 09-16-2010 | 08:47 AM
  #545  
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN
so the nova 7601 fits the RB engines?

can i use nova crankshaft in mine? lol.
Yes, if it is the 11.5mm Nova crankshaft.
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Old 09-16-2010 | 10:18 AM
  #546  
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Originally Posted by BigC2007
I know this may be a long shot, but anyone have or know where I can get a piston/sleeve and con rod for the Rody C5 On-Road ?
Also look for the C6 P/S set. I had a RB c5 case But used the RB C6 P/S set.
You might have better luck finding the C6 set. I got mine from Ashford hobbies.
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Old 09-16-2010 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by lil-bump
Also look for the C6 P/S set. I had a RB c5 case But used the RB C6 P/S set.
You might have better luck finding the C6 set. I got mine from Ashford hobbies.
Big Thanks to you Bro.
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Old 09-19-2010 | 11:15 AM
  #548  
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Hey Bro's
I just got my hands on a used Rody C5 .21 On-Road, it has about 21/2 gals gone threw it. I have place it in my MRX4-R and ran it till it reached 195 degrees but it seems like it dont want to hold at idle or seems the high rev are cutting out. Do anyone knows where or what should the Carb/Needle settings should be at ?

Thanks

p.s this is my first time every running a RB motor.
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Old 09-21-2010 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by BigC2007
Hey Bro's
I just got my hands on a used Rody C5 .21 On-Road, it has about 21/2 gals gone threw it. I have place it in my MRX4-R and ran it till it reached 195 degrees but it seems like it dont want to hold at idle or seems the high rev are cutting out. Do anyone knows where or what should the Carb/Needle settings should be at ?

Thanks

p.s this is my first time every running a RB motor.
If it is way out of tune restart with top and bottom needles set flush and set the idle then when it sounds good and go from there. I will be at Greater L.A. this weekend and would be more than happy to help you tune it.
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Old 09-21-2010 | 11:09 AM
  #550  
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Originally Posted by YBSLOW
If it is way out of tune restart with top and bottom needles set flush and set the idle then when it sounds good and go from there. I will be at Greater L.A. this weekend and would be more than happy to help you tune it.
Thanks Bro, I will be there Saturday morning helping set up. ( around 8am)

Clinton
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Old 09-21-2010 | 12:35 PM
  #551  
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Originally Posted by BigC2007
Thanks Bro, I will be there Saturday morning helping set up. ( around 8am)

Clinton
I will be there Friday afternoon, driving out from Phoenix. Just look for a white Escallade with AZ plates that say YBSLOW.

Brad

Last edited by YBSLOW; 09-21-2010 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 09-21-2010 | 12:40 PM
  #552  
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Originally Posted by YBSLOW
I will be there Friday afternoon, driving out from Poenix. Just look for a white Escallade with AZ plates that say YBSLOW.

Brad
Sounds good Bro, thanks again.
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Old 10-05-2010 | 06:19 PM
  #553  
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guys..after a full day race, i disassemble my engine. everything looks fine except the top surface of piston head which had quite a few small spots ( feels sandy ). it also appears on the bottom part of turbo button ( the area around the glow plug.) , has anyone experience this too? so what could be the cause of these and what should i do to prevent this from happening again.

and how do i remove this sandy spots stains, ? thanks

Last edited by rcabj; 10-05-2010 at 06:29 PM.
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Old 10-05-2010 | 08:09 PM
  #554  
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Originally Posted by rcabj
guys..after a full day race, i disassemble my engine. everything looks fine except the top surface of piston head which had quite a few small spots ( feels sandy ). it also appears on the bottom part of turbo button ( the area around the glow plug.) , has anyone experience this too? so what could be the cause of these and what should i do to prevent this from happening again.

and how do i remove this sandy spots stains, ? thanks
Bro I believe your motor is starting to Detonation happens when your mixture is too lean, This is when the air and fuel mixture ignites prematurely. It happens in different places in the chamber all at once, you can normally hear it when it happens and your can will loose some power, but it’s not a major problem unless you don’t pit. If you continue to drive you will damage your engine.
This causes pitting on the piston, head and glow plug. If you see pitting it means you are running too lean, you need to richen the mixture slightly.

Also Bro I would to be in the PI's !! some beautiful woman out there.
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Old 10-05-2010 | 09:12 PM
  #555  
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Originally Posted by BigC2007
Bro I believe your motor is starting to Detonation happens when your mixture is too lean, This is when the air and fuel mixture ignites prematurely. It happens in different places in the chamber all at once, you can normally hear it when it happens and your can will loose some power, but it’s not a major problem unless you don’t pit. If you continue to drive you will damage your engine.
This causes pitting on the piston, head and glow plug. If you see pitting it means you are running too lean, you need to richen the mixture slightly.

Also Bro I would to be in the PI's !! some beautiful woman out there.
thanks a lot bro.. i see the picture. hope no damage was done to the engine because of these ( u see i ran a 45 min final with that mixture, my pitcrew must have not notice it was getting lean) i did not notice power loss during that final. anyway i agree with u . thanks again
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