1/12 forum
Readily available to me is Jaco and Xceed tyres, what colour etc would be best to start with on an abrasive med to high grip tarmac surface (been surfaced with netball court paint) The surface has only recently been done and I don't know of anyone having tested it with 1/12.
Readily available to me is Jaco and Xceed tyres, what colour etc would be best to start with on an abrasive med to high grip tarmac surface (been surfaced with netball court paint) The surface has only recently been done and I don't know of anyone having tested it with 1/12.
Jaco purple fronts work too.Antoni
Im not sure what track you race at in Melbourne, but i took my 1/12 to TFTR last year and it worked great there. From the above tyres, i would stay away from jaco on asphalt. The fronts are ok, but the rears dont work. I would get Xceed Med rears, hard fronts
Jaco purple fronts work too.
Antoni
Jaco purple fronts work too.Antoni
Joel Johnson is running Ron Rossetti's 1/12 scale Mod at TQ RC RACING
He got 9.6sec, it's the fastest lap time at TQ.
Check out the video.
See you this Sunday, TQ Carpet Championship Series FINAL !!
www.tqrcracing.com
He got 9.6sec, it's the fastest lap time at TQ.
Check out the video.
| + YouTube Video | |
See you this Sunday, TQ Carpet Championship Series FINAL !!
www.tqrcracing.com
beside Xceed, Jaco, In Sydney we use speedmind as well last year National Champion won with speedmind tyres. we mainly use 35f/30r on green track. if steering is needed then 32f/32r. PM me if you want to try it.
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 216
From: Florida
WOW thanks a lot guys for all your help. That tire chart was exactly what I needed, and to wile2k, yes you have definitely answered all my questions. I'll have to study that post for a while to fully absorb it. 
I'll be doing a little more research on a bunch of the stuff that you mentioned and will report back with any more questions if I have them. Thanks again.

I'll be doing a little more research on a bunch of the stuff that you mentioned and will report back with any more questions if I have them. Thanks again.
These are what ill probably be running at the Nationals. Unsure of compound yet, need to test more
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 5,310
From: Sydney, Australia
The CRC tires are perhaps very slightly better than the exceeds, but the rims don't break. At the recent SA state titles CRC tires where on the 4 fastest cars on the track. We have prefered the feel of Magenta rears with purple fronts. I suggest people test around this combo as it has proven to be fast.
Thanks for this post. It had answered a couple of questions I was thinking about. This will be the first time I will be running a 12 scale on a track and a little nervous abut the speeds these can run.
I'd suggest starting with a car that is similar (or at least common) to what others at your club will be racing with. It will make it easier to get help or flesh out setup problems that you might run into. 12th scale can be finicky, sometimes something really small will make a big difference.
CRC GenXL and Associated 12R5 are pretty common and definitely competative. BMI with the old school front end is pretty straight forward for someone to help you with. Speedmerchant with the old front end is again straight forward. The newer front ends might be harder to help you with until people have them figured out a bit better.
Tekin RS speed control is common and pretty well sorted out (probably go with the RS / Tekin motor combo that is correct for the class that you'd be running, i.e. 17.5 or 13.5). I'm going with the new Novak Kinetic 1S and Ballistic combo but it isn't as well sorted out yet since the Kinetics are pretty new. The AE Black Diamond is interesting. It is really spendy and isn't computer programmable (has to be sent to the factory for firmware upgrades), but it's finite settings (have a handful of "profiles" for the various functions) might be, in a way, easier to setup and it is unquestionably fast. I'm not necessarily suggesting it, but it might be worth putting in your research queue.
Servo, Futaba 9650 or JR 3650 are the tops of my lists.
Thunderpower packs are well thought of 5000+MAh 50c (although I went with a budget pack from Protek 5000MAH 40c for less $ as I don't think I'll notice or need the 50c rate running 17.5). SMC and others make great packs too, probably won't go wrong if you just do a little research before buying. These are 1S LiPo hard case, but you probably already get that.
Depending on class, you'll want pinion / spurs capable of 60-100mm rollout. Plan to get a bunch of pinions, probably from about 40-60 tooth and a couple spurs 76,80,84 (car will probably come with 88). If you can do some research on your motor / class (ESC rules, sportsman or open) / track size, you can probably slim those down to maybe 2 spurs and a dozen pinions.
Hit up gearchart.com to make rollout charts. Tires will probably be cut and then worn down from about 46mm to 42mm. Consider a tire truer although your club or other members will likely let you use their's and they aren't cheap.
Receiver will be preferably something small but in the end depends on your radio.
Some people are using a voltage booster and some a receiver pack since 1S Lipo is 3.7v and that isn't really enough for stable receiver / servo operation. Take your pick there, I'm going with a small 220MAh 2S LiPo receiver pack from Protek.
Depending on car, front and center springs, tube lube (I'm using Shur Lube), shock oils (Losi or AE but stick to one brand) for tuning. Tire sauce (check what your track uses / allows). Diff lube, bearing oils, etc there (you probably have some of this, just thinking out loud). Camber gauge (RPM works fine and is cheap / simple), ride height gauge (I prefer non-stepped), front end alignment tools (I use Niftech, better than trying to eye it and setup stations for 12th scale aren't common). Other tools are common hex drivers, 3/16th socket type driver, pliers, etc. I have 4 mini digital scales for weight balancing / tweak setting and you can get those cheap off Ebay.
Tires will depend on class that you run, track surface, etc, easiest to make friends with your club members and ask what they run. Common to see something like Yellow rear / Lilac front Jacos and variations around that. Again, best to check with a local.
Hmm, did that cover most of it? The car you get will have setup suggestions which will get you started, so no point into going into that.
Biggest suggestion is to be as precise as you can on your setup, small things are big things in 12th scale.
CRC GenXL and Associated 12R5 are pretty common and definitely competative. BMI with the old school front end is pretty straight forward for someone to help you with. Speedmerchant with the old front end is again straight forward. The newer front ends might be harder to help you with until people have them figured out a bit better.
Tekin RS speed control is common and pretty well sorted out (probably go with the RS / Tekin motor combo that is correct for the class that you'd be running, i.e. 17.5 or 13.5). I'm going with the new Novak Kinetic 1S and Ballistic combo but it isn't as well sorted out yet since the Kinetics are pretty new. The AE Black Diamond is interesting. It is really spendy and isn't computer programmable (has to be sent to the factory for firmware upgrades), but it's finite settings (have a handful of "profiles" for the various functions) might be, in a way, easier to setup and it is unquestionably fast. I'm not necessarily suggesting it, but it might be worth putting in your research queue.
Servo, Futaba 9650 or JR 3650 are the tops of my lists.
Thunderpower packs are well thought of 5000+MAh 50c (although I went with a budget pack from Protek 5000MAH 40c for less $ as I don't think I'll notice or need the 50c rate running 17.5). SMC and others make great packs too, probably won't go wrong if you just do a little research before buying. These are 1S LiPo hard case, but you probably already get that.
Depending on class, you'll want pinion / spurs capable of 60-100mm rollout. Plan to get a bunch of pinions, probably from about 40-60 tooth and a couple spurs 76,80,84 (car will probably come with 88). If you can do some research on your motor / class (ESC rules, sportsman or open) / track size, you can probably slim those down to maybe 2 spurs and a dozen pinions.
Hit up gearchart.com to make rollout charts. Tires will probably be cut and then worn down from about 46mm to 42mm. Consider a tire truer although your club or other members will likely let you use their's and they aren't cheap.
Receiver will be preferably something small but in the end depends on your radio.
Some people are using a voltage booster and some a receiver pack since 1S Lipo is 3.7v and that isn't really enough for stable receiver / servo operation. Take your pick there, I'm going with a small 220MAh 2S LiPo receiver pack from Protek.
Depending on car, front and center springs, tube lube (I'm using Shur Lube), shock oils (Losi or AE but stick to one brand) for tuning. Tire sauce (check what your track uses / allows). Diff lube, bearing oils, etc there (you probably have some of this, just thinking out loud). Camber gauge (RPM works fine and is cheap / simple), ride height gauge (I prefer non-stepped), front end alignment tools (I use Niftech, better than trying to eye it and setup stations for 12th scale aren't common). Other tools are common hex drivers, 3/16th socket type driver, pliers, etc. I have 4 mini digital scales for weight balancing / tweak setting and you can get those cheap off Ebay.
Tires will depend on class that you run, track surface, etc, easiest to make friends with your club members and ask what they run. Common to see something like Yellow rear / Lilac front Jacos and variations around that. Again, best to check with a local.
Hmm, did that cover most of it? The car you get will have setup suggestions which will get you started, so no point into going into that.
Biggest suggestion is to be as precise as you can on your setup, small things are big things in 12th scale.
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 5,310
From: Sydney, Australia
I wouldn't worru about the speed too much. A decent setup on a 12th can be easy to drive like a 17.5 tc.
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iTrader: (23)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 438
You could also use a 17.5, you won't have the huge horsepower down a straight but you will be able to keep up in the twisty sections of the track until you get used to racing/tuning your car and then step up to a lower wind motor,cheers.
Michael
What I thought about doing is running a 21.5 in the car. I really would like to learn setup before I start bringing in speed.
Quick question I am going to mount my electronics in my car. Is there anyway besides scales to make sure the car is balanced when mounting the electronics?
Quick question I am going to mount my electronics in my car. Is there anyway besides scales to make sure the car is balanced when mounting the electronics?
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 727
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
You could drive a couple of small holes, one at the front and one at the back, and balance it with pins. Some regular bulletin board push pins with a pivot ball or the like over the pin will give you a rough idea of how balanced you are.



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