What motors / gearing you guys running?

I'm asking because I have some old stuff I was going to throw in it. But it's a 6.5 Orion motor, WAYY too much, but maybe if I dial it down a little.

Ehhhh, not sure what to do.

Either side will do , does not really matter cept that everyone uses the right side..

I've always put the diff screw on the right side but on the Losi's the diff screw is on the left side. So I guess it doesn't matter. For this last build I thought I would try it on the left side and see what happens. One advantage of putting the diff screw on the left side is that I was able to adjust the diff without disconnecting the camberlink and using a shortened allen key.

A lock nut in good condition will over come the force that occurs from reverse rotation on the right side ....

Personally mount it on the left however...

If your going to race ar OC/RC I guess you could breakdown your motor sizes by class. West Coast is 17.5 BL max for Stock Short Course FYI

Stock Short Course: 13.5 BL max

Modified Short Course: 8.5 BL seems to be the max people run.

ESC/Motor combo's are nice Novak Kinetic, LRP SSX TC Spec etc etc
what ever your comfortable with I guess. OC/RC doesnt have an issue with people running advance timing ESC's


I run two different ones in both my trucks with no issues.
Stock Short Course: Novak GTB esc, Novak Ballastic 13.5 sensored
Modified Short Course: LRP SSX TC Spec esc, LRP X12 8.5 sensored

I know you're trying to sell that mod truck. ANY interest in parting it? If not, NO WORRIES!

I'd take the esc/motor.... prolly better to sell it complete, but if ya want I'll pick those up.

WOW, super impressed with this truck. Changed the rear tires to JConcepts Bar Codes and left everything else built exactly to book spec.

Main issue is the gearing in the book. It's way wrong. 13.5 with a 21/84 is way undergeared. Ended up running a 25/84. Plenty of umph for all the jumps, way more top end down the straight and perfect temps coming off the track.

One practice run. Took second first heat. DNF second heat, stripped the motor can!!! Screw backed out and then wobbled around. Had to turn the motor, no biggy. Took second in the main with a nice consistent run and ran two more laps than I did in the first heat. Way better than I expected to run (even if it was a slow night at the track).

The truck is AMAZING out of the box in my opinion. I might play with the front suspension a little. Softer springs, heavier fluid. I think everything else is just about perfect for my local track.

Anyone else having issues trying to get the front end down during jumps? You cant really correct this truck mid-air

dont go full throtle upon aproching jumps, that way you will lessen the nose up behaviour of your sc10.

Hitting the brakes works just fine for me. I drive it like an 1/8 buggy, but you have to over exaggerate everything. My brakes are at 80% and it takes a full brake blip to bring the nose down. Launches pretty good with that technique, stays low and flat.

Nothing else out there I'd rather have in the SC world (cept an SC8e if everybody would start racing those!)

FWIW, I'm pinned off a lot of the jumps at the local track, but it is about timing off the face and hitting the brakes.

GOOD LUCK

Ya I tried hitting the brakes mid air...the truck just does not seem to respond at all to those inputs. Some of the jump are right after some hairpins, so you need to gas it to clear the triple or double.

What ESC / Motor? Where is your battery placement? I'm at exactly 18mm back. Maybe add like an ounce weight to the front of the truck. If you're running stock setup, those front reds are def way too stiff depending on your rear ride height.

Double check all your settings, even way out of whack the front of the truck should come down with the brakes. If I was to HOLD the brakes in mid air it would endo nose down and again, I run 80% brake on a MMP.

Good luck.

ohhh, I'm also looking at setup sheets from the AE site. I'm going to try Josh Anderson and Ryan Calari setups (as that's my local track too).

I am running a Novak GTB, Novak 8.5 SS, and 2s lipo pushed all the way to the front. Suspension is set arm level, with the stock springs. Understeering a bit too. Rear end is planted. Maybe some softer front springs would help

Check out the Cavalari setup sheet. It's a lot of work, but it's what I'm going to try first.

It's weird that your battery is all the way forward and the rear is still planted and nose still lifts so much. Again, I'd go over the entire truck and check your brake settings on your esc.

Thinking about it a bit more, that's a lot of horsepower. You probably should be letting off before the truck is leaving the face of a jump and def using the brakes.

I will try some laps with my 10.5. Maybe that will help a bit. When i am practicing, I am running the program with reverse. I need to adjust the brake.