Good point Mark..I'm forever being told my engine is too lean as it doesn't smoke much even at full throttle and as my LSN is spot on I don't get much puff even pulling away after say 30 seconds idling (so long as the motor is at full temp of course)the nay-sayers usually shut up after I scream the MG66 past them..or disappear mumbling about how short my engine life will be..can't tell some people.funnily enough it's the same people who try to tell me I'm tuning wrong cause they don't understand the long needle carb.Apparently 11 minutes + a tank is a sure sign I'm running way lean too..ooooh excuse me for not needing to refuel every 6 minutes..boo hoo!

hehehehe

I wanted to try the Dynamite 086 pipe for my MG66. Anyone no where I can get one for a good price?

A-Main - they are most likely as cheap as you will get.
This is the one you want - Dynamite Platinum 086 HS

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Hard-Anodized

Gee this thread's been quiet since Thursday...is that a good thing or a bad thing ?

on the massive mods site shimming 101,it says
15 % .2 Hot
20 % .3 to .4 Med hot
25 % .4 to .5 Med
30 % .5 to .7 Med Cold

this is including the .3 built in to the head button right?

Yeah, I was just thinking the same thing Flanno - unusually quite.

We are quite over here in NZ as we are not able to get any racing in due to the weather. It has been WET for the last 3 1/2 months. We have had meeting after meeting cancelled.
Our National IC Offroad Champs are cominig up in early October, so hopefully the weather will have come right by then.
No racing has saved me a small fortune in tyres and fuel - which I have spent anyway, overhauling and upgrading the 808 for another season of abuse and torment from the grunt of the MG66
A new body and paint job, a few trick alloy suspension upgrades and a bit of functional bling, along with some new arms etc to keep the old girl performing like new. Plus a new MG66X beinig run-in for this years bigger events What else can a guy do when it's too wet to go racing.

Nope. The figures given there are shim stack only and DO NOT include the built in .3mm.

So for say 25%, you are looking at .4 to .5mm of actual shims, plus the built in .3 of the head button for a total effective clearance of .7 to .8mm.

Most everyone talks in terms of shim stack only, and the built in .3mm of the head button is a given factor on top of this.

must be all those fat bottom girls out there are on their bikes & leaning out
& all the good advice from u blokes

I have always had a problem with the way it reads. I take it as to include the .3mm into your total. Only because mark says he is using a .1mm shim with 20% nitro for his mg-66. I use.2mm shims+ the .3 built in for a total of .5mm. In all my engines after break in. I use byrons 30% with a os p-3 plug. I have tried the osp-4 plug but did not like. My engines run great,fantastic milage,do not run hot and have plenty of power. I am not replacing rods and cranks all the time either. I will say you do need to know how to tune, as the window for spot on tuning decreases. This is what works for me in my part of the world. To me or in my personnel opinion the nitro you use really effects everything you do to these engines as far as tuning.

Same here bigmatt. .2mm of shims and Byrons 30% in all of
my GO engines. I stopped counting how much fuel has gone
through my Clocked 7 port after the ten gallon mark.
The sleeve has never been re-sized and the crank has never
been replaced. Just take the time to break-in the engine properly,
find the sweet spot on the tune and let it eat. My PTM 5,7 and .25T
engines also have had buku gallons of fuel ran through them
without any problems. I've tried to make paperweights out of
them, but they just want to keep on GOing and GOing and GOing.........

It does read like that, but I contacted Mark when the article first came out and asked him the same question. He said he always refers to shim stack only (including in that article), as the .3mm of the head is a constant factor. Maybe he can pop up when he has a minute to spare and confirm this for us.

hey why do i keep blowing glow plugs

Might be running too lean. Thats usually a good sign things aren't rich enough for your engine. Maybe try fattening it up a tad and see if that helps.

If you are stopping your motor by blocking the exhaust pipe, this will blow plugs on a regular basis due to overpressurising the cylinder. You will find your motor runs good, but often will not start due to a blown plug.
Stop your motor by using the flywheel.
If the plugs are just blowing at random while your running, could be too lean as suggested, or your running a plug that's too hot for the nitro content your using , or your head shimming is incorrect for the nitro content you are running (too much compression).
Also check your air filter is well oiled and working properly. If your introducing dust etc into the motor this will damage plugs too.