So what diff should i use for drifting?

Locked or the spool?

I dunno the first thing about driftin man.

My Tc3 setup as it stands. I know my car has one off parts, but this takes that into account and should get ya close.

FRONT
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Shocks: Oil, 50wt. Springs, HPI Silver (6825). Piston, #1. For standard shock towers/arms use the inside hole on both for shock position.

Steering knuckle: Tc4. Ouside hole.

Caster: 4 degrees

Camber link: Silver ballstud in both locations. Add .030 washer under inboard ballstud. Inboard ballstud in the innermost position.

Steering rack: Silver ballstud and .030 washer.

Bumpsteer: Make steering link parallel to the suspension arm at static rideheight.

Diff: Slipper spool.

Suspension mounts: F+0 and F

Ride height: 5mm for this setup.

REAR
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Shocks: Oil, 40wt. Springs, HPI Pink (6849). Piston, #1. For standard shock towers/arms use the outside hole on both for shock position.

Rear hub: Losi. 0 offset/toe.

Camber link: Silver ballstud in both locations. Add .030 washer under inboard and outboard ballstuds. Inner position on hub, and one out from inner position on 'wing'.

Wheelbase: Rear hub forward.

Diff: Plastic outdrives.

Suspension mounts: F and R+3+2

Ride height: 5mm for this setup.

Tires: Usually Sorex 36's because of the heat, medium inserts. The car seems to like a tire on the cooler side of its heat range, so if the asphalt is 110 degrees, dont hesitate to try Sorex 40's. You will get more steering, and more response from the car by doing so.

I also noticed the car lost its response if it sat on the track baking in the sun. I was on the stand working on radio adjustments, and randomly talking to people while the car sat in the sun for over 20 mins. I took it inside for an hour to let the battery charge, made no changes, took it back out and the car was responsive again. It seems the extreme heat softens the tub somewhat.

General
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No swaybars. No droop screws. No internal shock springs. Battery is an SMC 4500mah pack, forward position. I run boosted 17.5 and use an 81t 64p spur to find my ratio. Try to find your ratio with the smallest spur possible for best motor placement/chassis balance.

This setup will wash out if you blast into sweepers without maintaining your speed to hold your line. It works best on medium to tight courses with good throttle control.

Slipper spool?

How does it work!

At the bottom of post#11383 a few pages back, you can see how to make it work.

A slipper spool lets you have the feel of a solid spool, with a little less chance for front driveline breakage if you hit something during a race.

Its also cheaper to spend $4 on spool pads and rebuild your existing steel diff into a slipper spool, than spend $20+ on a solid spool, and you might not like the way it works.

By the way... that setup above is a grip setup. It definitely will not work for drift. lol

No droop screws ? You mean they aren't touching the chassis ?

BTW I am surprised that you didn't understand waht I meant about the servo arm : Lowering the servo and shortening the servo arm have little to do with each other and yet you seem to consider them equivalent.

Does anyone know where to get a new carbon fiber drive shaft for the
tc3/tc4? I've heard that one is better than the aluminum one.

You probably can't buy a new one unless it is old stock. Your best chance is going to be eBay. The carbon fiber shaft is very light but it is not stronger than aluminum. The ends are basically glued to the rod. It is possible to snap the ends right off under hard acceleration, especially with hi torque brushless motors and advanced speed controls. I did. I have a carbon fiber shaft now but I only use it in my USVTA car where torque and acceleration are pretty limited. I don't know if one was ever made for the TC4, only the TC3. And yes, the drive shafts are slightly different for the two.

I already snaped one! I got it off EBay! it was like 20-30 bucks and lasted me one day!

It was a bust! went back to lumi!

No droop screws. You can see in the pix they are there but backed out.

If i cant seem to explain something as simplistic as servo arm ballstud height, im not even going to TRY and explain why i dont use droop screws... or what i use in their place.

Has anyone tried using the tc4 shock towers and chassis braces on the tc3? What was the handleing like?

can someone please explain the benefit of a spool or slipper spool in the front. when is a one way better
when is a regular diff better
when is a spool / slipper spool better

thanks..

The Tc4 shock towers can give more steering and stability versus the Tc3 shock towers. The braces or "wings" are needed to have somewhere to mount the inner camber link after adding the Tc4 shock towers. The advantages of vertical ballstud mounting is debatable, so i wont even go into that.

The solid spool is what you want to run on asphalt. The slipper spool mainly adds some security against crash breakage over a solid spool.

A diff will mostly be used on carpet, or if you cant seem to get rid of an exit corner oversteer issue on asphalt (all else being proper).

A one-way is never better. lol Its disadvantages outweigh its advantages, unless you are on a large smooth flowing track with very few braking zones. Even then, a spool can outperform it.

what parts from the nitroTC3 and TC4 can be swap to the electrice TC3?

Can someone point me in the right direction?

I remember seeing a couple of pictures of a modified motor bracket for the TC3. I'm trying to set up mine for VTA and need to grind down the correct areas to fit the larger pinions. Any info would be helpful.

Thanks