beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

Here, I'll save you some time. Sounds like your servo horn might be too long, the angle or your server spacer blocks are not right. Alot of stuff effects the travel. If you don't have the stock servo horns, they are hard to get for a TC3, but I think the TC5 ones are the same size, just "beefier." Also, Losi XXX-S, JRXS, and JRXS-R steering knuckles bolt right in and give you a longer arm to attach the steering tie rods to if you want to limit it that way. Lastly, the total amount of kick-up and castor you are running also has a small effect on the steering travel.

lostinbaja

iTrader: (15)

The servo has the Associated horn on it and according to the manual it needs no spacers when using the servo I am using.
The linkage does infact come off the horn and rack at a 90deg angle.
The arm on the "Steering Block" is tight against the "Block Carrier" when the steering is turned fully to that particular side.
Is it common practice to grind the stops on the "Steering Block" or "Block Carrier" to acheive uniform steering travel from side to side? If so, Should I grind them enough to allow the "Steering Rack" to travel it's full travel (bottomed against the rack bearings)? Right now, the rack travels the same amount both ways, but doesn't bottom against the bearings because the steering stops when the "Steering Block" contacts the "Block Carrier".

beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

The horn is supposed to lay toward the center just a tick, like the manual shows, not at 90 degrees. That may be what DaveW was implying when he asked that question and just wasn't clear that it shouldn't be at 90. Correcting it would fix any left / right travel difference and maybe the problem you are having. I wouldn't grind or modify anything on the steering. Those parts break enough as it is.

heretic

The tc3 has always been asymetrical in this area (and in general, TBH), and that is independent from the servo travel or linkage in itself. The C hubs are not molded symmetrically, SO, if remember weel you have to grind the left one where the knuckle hits it, in order to have equal steering throw ( that is, until the racks hits its pair of bearings/bushings like the right one). Your steering links must be absolutely equal before you do that, of course.

Once this is done you adjust the lenght of you servo link as per the manual and set you EPA's meticulously.

Done !

heretic

edit : I am talking about the 0 degree hubs here. The 2 and 4 degrees C hubs are more symmetrical for that particular matter BUT they don't have the same angle L/R, and that's how it supposed to be... just forget about it as long as your steering rack has full travel on both sides.

IndyHobbies.com

I found out that because its an older design, servo cases/models from various manufacturers have changed. Futaba too. So, I'm adding spacers as needed to get the control arm/links parallel to the servo top looking down from above. Seemed link the right way to set it up to me.

Photo below. Not sure if it helps.

slashdriver

iTrader: (84)

I'm working on setting up a TC3 as a spare/loaner VTA car, have a few questions for the TC3 wizards.

1) I have the composite plastic shocks, which I've installed the VCS2 upgrade kit on, and I am using a rear shock tower on the front per the more modern TC3 setup sheets.

I'm running into an issue where the shocks are just too long, especially on the front. I had to shim the front shock tower up 3mm AND take the uptravel limiters off the shock shaft (the VCS2 kit says these are required to prevent the piston from hitting the bladder) just to get enough uptravel to be able to push the chassis of the car flat to the ground. I had to remove the uptravel limiters on the rear as well. The pistons don't seem to hit the bladders, but the uptravel is still quite limited because the shocks don't compress short enough (the bottom spring retainer hits the bottom of the shock body and that's the shortest they can get).

Do the aluminum/factory/FT shock bodies compress shorter, or are they the same?

2) any tips on being able to run the diffs looser than the manual setting without having them slip obnoxiously? They are extremely tight compared to what I"m used to on other more modern TC chassis, and even when they are tight they slip.

Jay_P

Hi
Anyone have any good ideas to lighten the tc3 chassis? I'm currently 176g (6 and a bit oz) over weight and need to slim down!

Dread Pirate

iTrader: (15)

Don't know what battery you are running, but this thing packs a lot of punch and has my unmodified Racer kit needing to add weight to get up to 1380g.
3800, 60C, 200g; keeps the old battle axe humming high in the standings against all those newer carbon fiber wallet draining cars

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...cs&pn=LOSB9880

pejota

iTrader: (12)

Regarding servo horns--

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX3191&P=7

The servo horn listed in the manual is the same listed in my SC10 and B4 manual. I've also had success using it on my old school RC10 and other projects. I tend to buy a few extras anytime i need to get my Tower order to the next discount level.

IndyHobbies.com

Here's HPI's "Stiletto" body which my son wants on his TC3. Its Faskolor paints throughout. Nice looking body. He will run it in our the Sportsman Touring Car class at www.rcarindy.com in Indianapolis

Jay_P

Thanks for the link, but i just bought new batteries! Im looking for mods to the chassis itself. looks like im only going to loose 25- 30g at the most with what I have started so far

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

Front shock tower + shock travel using VTA wheels...

I don't think the TC3 was designed to run tires with a large diameter like the VTA tires AND be a low ride height at the front. The problem I was running into with TC3 blue threaded aluminum shocks was lack of shock collar adjustments at 5-6mm ride height. My solution was also to add some aluminum spacers between the shock tower and transmission case to compensate (raise up the shock tower).

If you decide to use spacers, here are some suggestions:

- Super glue the spacers to the transmission case. In the event you need to remove the shock tower, you will have less of a chance of losing the spacers.
- Use longer screws. Depending on how many spacers you use, 1/2" screws should work fine. Make sure the screw doesn't extended into the diff case where it could rub on the bevel gear.
- Use steel screws. Since you are raising up the shock tower, you are increasing the chance of bending the screws. A stronger screw will help prevent this. Periodically check the screws.

After raising up the shock tower, it solved the problems I was having. Some people use a rear tower on the front. This actually makes the problem worse without raising up the tower.

----------

The TC4 doesn't have this issue. You can convert the TC3 to use TC4 shock towers, but you will also have to replace the chassis braces with TC4 braces. This is due to the TC4 shock towers not having camber link mounts.

jayhart76

Hey all I just picked up a tc3 and am looking for good setups for carpet. I also intend to run Vta so setups you have will help big time. AE web site no longer lists setups for the tc3 so if you have some pm me and I will I've you my e-mail addy to send them to.

Thanks for any help.

Jason

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Slashdriver, if you want to be done with diff issues, switch to spool (with lcd drives #losa3344) in the front, and rear diff with ceramic balls and loctite on the diff bolt ! It seems to be the only solution for these torquey brushless motors ! I did try everything to make diffs work on the front of my tc4, and what I found was that if you stop them from slipping, then you risk breaking the diff bolt (running boosted or mod) ! Spool is just the only way, but then you will need losi (#losa3344) lcd drives to eliminate chatter ! I have my car running mod over five years now with this setup with no maintenance whatsoever (parma wide front bumper necessary) !!!