il try to push the brake collers in more and see if that helps , i do already have a pair of 2.0 pads, around so il look at the 2.0 brakes disc.

but ive used the 1.0 brake pads, on the buggy with no problem but they did fade later on though.

I am planning on doing something tomorrow, but I have to run it by your guys first. I want to extend the mud guards up a little bit. Actually I want to extend them to almost touching the body. Question is, how much air flow do you get through those gaps in front of the truck?? Will it affect engine temps at all??? Reason is, I want to keep more dirt and rocks out of the driveline.

Dude, you need to get a set of the 2.0 black discs. They are a MUST have.

I think you'll be fine. Most of the cooling comes from air flowing over the body, onto the head.

there 1.0 and 2.0 brake disc, there thicker than the stock 1.0 brake disc i think i just need to use the 2.0 brake pads.

il give you a pic on here later of them after race day.

I was adjusting the camber on the front end of my truggy. If I don't have at least -4 the drive shafts will fall out of the front diff outdrives. I have it at -6 right now just to be safe. I have the Losi aluminum hub carriers, bearings are good, toe out is 2 degrees. Is this a known issue on the T 2.0 and I am just now realizing it? The drive shafts could easily be 1-2mm longer.

does anyone know how many teeth are on the sun gear inside the diff? dont flame me i dont have a losi i might need the parts but need to know how many teeth are on the gear. thanks.

Is the driveshaft bent? And how's your droop is it set correctly?

Be sure to take your front hinge pins out and check them everytime I have seen a losi truck have a driveshaft pop out it has hasd a bent hinge pin, doesn't really effect performance (binding or anything) just allows the dog bone to pop out.
I have bent a few on my truck and am now using M2C hardened hinge pins.

The driveshaft is not bent. Droop, as far as being correct, I have the inner hinge pin higher than the outside of the a-arm. It is just a few degrees from one side to the other. The arms are close to level. My drive shafts will not fall out anymore.

On a separate note, my truggy hates to turn. It is ridiculous how bad it pushes under power. I moved the spacers to the back on the rear carriers to shorten the wheelbase. I have the 2mm wheel extenders for full throw. Currently running the long ackerman. Running stock diff fluid setup. I just replaced my servo saver, the old one was played out. That helped a little. The truck is pretty much stock setup.

Here is how I have to turn; accelerate down the straight, approach the turn, slam the wheel to the stops, mash the brakes, throw the wheel the other way and than hammer the gas. If I don't do it right, I can kiss two seconds goodbye getting the thing lined up. The truck will not steer its way through a turn in a racing manner. I have to drive it like I hate it.

Any of you guys having throttle sticking issue?? I know of 3 different trucks with 3 different engines owned by 3 different people that this is happening on. Works fine on the bench. Put it on the track, get up to operating temp and it starts sticking. Sometimes open/closed just in a hellacious bind!! Tried different carbs, linkage angles, different motors, different mounts, different clutch bells, different everything...just can't figure it out... All three run different fuel as well. What gives??!!

well i dont have a 2.0 t but i know, on my 1.0 t that i was racing today i could not get my to turn in better maybe il try more front toe out. its at about 1/12 degresse out, im using the short rack steering also i did put my bump steering down maybe thats causing it.


thanks for letting me barrow... the clutchbell i should be back at the end of august when the hut races . i liked it but i can not, get my low end to lean out, really i already turned it quite a bit i thinks its because i havnt used a gallon up yet than, again maybe i need new clutch shoes.


i would try more front toe out , a short rack ackerman.

nevermind i just seen what problem, is the ackerman screw somehow came loose and it was hitting the
top front brace and i had very little steering .

i dont know how i drove it like that lol.

Definately give the short ackerman a shot.You should have gottin both in your kit. Mine use to do the same thing as your describing now it turns on a dime.

i would remmend running, the bump steering down because i
tried the short rack with, the bump steering up and it was too touchy.

and also use 2 degree of front toe, out insend of 1 degree like im using now which im gone to change to get more turn in. even when the ackerman scews were tight it felt like, i could use a little more toe out on my 1.0 t.

Something is wrong. The drive shafts shouldn't even come close to popping out with any negative camber setting. Make sure your droop is set right. Front should be 110mm rear should be 127mm.

Something is wrong with linkage setup. Without the losi split diff mount, you have to be really careful when setting the linkages up. It is very common for a linkage setup to only cause a carb to bind once at running temperature.

The other thing is, carbs can develop burrs on the inside of the slide where the idle screw slots in. This happens over time when running with an improper linkage setup. You can use the edge of an hobby knife blade to remove the burrs and then follow with a scotch brite pad or very fine sand paper/emery cloth to smooth it out further. Or just replace the slide. The idle screw itself can also burr up, so that should be sanded as well.

Try the setup posted below. It will take care of ANY steering problems you have.