I also use the dynamite 086 on my go-tec's and mg-66. for some reason it makes the mg-66 even more of an animal!! especially down low,with top end to match!

If it's run-in enough (say 20 tanks for a GX) then it won't hurt to put an easy race tune on it. The motor will still be a little tight, but should perform well - just don't go too lean on the top end and start getting that lean bog below half a tank that Magpie mentioned. You don't want to be running it rich any longer than you need to after initial run-in. Rich and cold is not good for a motor once it's bedded in.
Once you have 4.5 litres through, you can tune it to be nasty with no worries at all. Fit the spare rod at around 11 litres (you will be lucky to get the old rod off before this mark) then your set to race for a long while.
Just follow the maintenance tips re bearings etc on the web site.

Matt - I'm loving the 086 on the MG-66. Thanks for the tip mate
The 086 does take some of the smoothness away from the MG that you get with the 2072, but for the shorter tighter tracks we mostly run here it is actually better I find. More point and squirt but still quite managable, and the top end - well, you really have to drive one to get the picture
Ran at a track last weekend and the motor was STRONG plus I was getting 10 min tanks easy, which I normally can't do around this track. That's a big advantage in the finals when everyone else is stopping at 7.5 - 8 min - helps to make up for the average driving skills

I got a 15 tooth clutch bell that I will try this weekend at the track. I hooked it up to my mg-66 with the go 2072 pipe. smooth,but seems to have more response down low with out the wheeling [could be new clutch shoe's] But for my 808 2010 I still like the mg,086,17 tooth clutch bell. The mg-66 can really get away from you quick if your not careful. I don't know if it's the engine or just me,but this thing is touchy. And by that I mean any little change and it throws the power delivery off. I put new clutch shoe's on with the 15 tooth bell,and it was like a sled for awhile. Then the shoe's must have seated and away it went!!! So I am eager to try at the track[tight technical] But will most likely go back to my original setup.

Hey Guys,
I have a hyper 8.5 with the 3 port 28 go and a 086 dynamite pipe.I have read the MM site on tuning but still cant get it right, if I tune the top end so it has nice power through the rev range, on return to idle it revs high then drops which indicates the high needle is lean, so if i richen it up the motor is so fat it wont rev out properly, how do i get it to return to idle nicely and still make good power through the rev range, this one has me stumped.
Motor has had 2 litres of 20% fuel through it and runs an 0s#8 plug, im running a .3 shim and a .2 shim under the head.


thanks
Pete

You need to close the idle gap some.... high idle after being on throttle is too much idle gap...... Then if it wants to stall at idle you need to lean the LSN.... The if it wants to cut out on acceleration you need to fatten the HSN...make all these adjustments in small nudges...believe it or not but your idle gap is the key to a perfect tune..get the idle gap right and the other 2 needles will fall into place......

Yep

I think Flanno also mentioned to watch out for the lean bog under 1/2 a tank also and adjust tune accordingly

Anyhoo, the reason I'm on; I couldn't be bothered going all the way back through the thread as it is so loooooooong

Grizz or Matt, have you run an 0801 on your 66 yet ?
I'v only ever tried the 2072 and want some idea on the 0801 and what difference you's noticed, if any.

Run time changes, bottom end, top end etc etc

Cheers Flanno.

ok thanks guys I will give it another go, im thinking maybe I have to bigger gap as you mention and probably to rich on the lsn

Hey sorry Flanno, I didn't read back that far, so credit where credit is due
I never ran the 0801 on the MG66. I went away from the 0801 due to the softness of the pipe and weak stinger. Nice pipe, but just too delicate.
As mentioned the 086 on the MG is killer. You would like it Flanno


Yep - The high idle dropping down after a few seconds is a combination of a wide idle gap and rich bottom end as mentioned. You will also find the top end is too lean (in order for the rich bottom end and wide idle gap to actually run). Set the idle gap to .7mm or set using the pinch test. Then tune LSN followed by HSN, then re check the LSN again if you had to richen the top any.
NB: If the motor won't idle with the gap at .7mm DO NOT adjust the idle gap. Lean the bottom end until the motor will idle at this idle gap setting.
If you wind up the idle you will be richening the LSN, and this is where the whole problem starts.

Grizz.

Are the pipes you mentioned EFRA approved for AARCMCC events ?

I have to keep that in mind when trying pipes.

Flanno.

Not sure about that mate. Not something I have to worry about at my level I guess there will be a site somewhere with all the EFRA and IFMAR approved pipes listed.

Thanks for the advice it is much appreciated, I shall give it a good going over.

I suck and I have a 7port. Witch pipe will smooth out the powerban?

I am 98% certain that the dynamite pipes are not EFRA approved, which is a damn shame, coz they are great pipes IMO.