I own one of the first GO 7 ports that Maximo ever
modded and after years of running it is still screaming.
It has been a great engine to me, with around ten gallons
of fuel ran through it now, still balloning the tires from a
stand still on my truggy. I have replaced a few con rods,
bearings and a couple of glowplugs. It will probably get a new
crank and a pinch soon, that should make it last another
five or ten gallons.

He he he - just got a chance to watch your clip Maximo. That is one strong motor for sure - nice one

Ginger, I can't say a stock 7 Port will do that, but they are pretty strong in their own right - certainly no slouch. Check out that clutch and get back to us.

What plugs do you guys recommend for the GX-5R? Also what venture do you guys recommend?

o'donnel 97T plugs

Odonnel 97T with the 8mm venturi. The 8mm is the easiest to tune, and gives you the best mileage/power ratio.

OD 97T plugs and a 7mm insert.
The insert really depends on your driving style, track size and layout as to which one is going to give you the best economy and power delivery for your track. I have always found the 7 mm a good compromise on most tracks, but everyone will have their own preference. Experiment until you find a compromise that works for you.

Thanks for the quick response guys. I'll have to play around once I get it going. Also another question, what break in method do you guys use. The one that is in the engine book or the break in Bible method.

You got PM

i change my main bearing,conrod yesterday and put the engine back together, installed the flywheel,i can turn the engine by hand but heard a clicking noise when i turn the engine,is it normal to a newly broke engine?my engine still has a slight pinch left to it but i can easily rotate it by my hand,should i change my wrist pin?crankshaft?i dont know howdetermine if my crankpin is worn out..

Right need some advice now as i am getting totally frustrated,
Have set the idle to 0.7 with restrictor out, when cold set the LSN to stop when pinching feed pipe between 6 and 7 secs (in about 2 1/2 turns), HSN 1/4 in from flush, when wot hit the engine screems on the way down as if the throttle stuck open even though it is not and stays high for about 7 secs before slowing, engine then cuts,
Had no bottom end when racing totally holding back and poor top end, leaned bottom and top slightly and it improved, problem is engine cuts after every 3 - 4 mins racing.
7.5 mm restricter, 25% gen2 standard spacers in with extra spacer removed, T3 turbo plug, engine has about 2.5 gallon through it now and can still hold its weight if held at 3 0 clock.
Have tried the tuning method given by MM but struggling with it still, can honestly say I have not had a good tune since having the engine but appreciate its my tuning thats pants, any advice please as my head is aching from hitting the wall.
Have checked for air leaks and changed the HSN o ring recently.

first off which engine..a new GX????And how many liters has it had through it?? NO there really shouldn't be any clicking noise from a new engine and whether it turns over too easily or not is difficult to judge except by experience..A good check is to remove the piston and sleeve and slide the piston into the sleeve ( facing the correct way!!) and see how close to the top it goes easily before tightening ..no need to force it.if the engine is newly run in the piston should stop at least 3-4 mm from the top .
If the crankpin isn't worn the rod should be quite a tight fit over it.. don't have a GX myself but my MG66 is frankly a bit of a bitch to get on a new rod..really have to tease it on and I use plenty of after run oil to ease it's fit.once it's on and the sleeve is refitted turn it to TDC and look at the fit between it and the crankpin as you wobble it back and forth..you shouldn't be able to see any gap appearing either side at all..at least with the new TiNi coated cranks a visual inspection of the crankpin will show if the coating is worn away or not.If it isn't worn the pin is fine..personally I always replace the wristpin when I change a rod..Go parts are so cheap it's dumb not to while you have it apart.

First off what engine model/gen and is it the long or short needle carb...

Sorry Blonde moment,

Its a 7 Port GX Long needle
I am also going through loads of plugs, last one i blew seemed to have the fillament pushed upwards slightly.

hehe not a problem...

well first question then is how was it running for the last 2/1/2 gallons..surely you haven't run it that way for that much fuel..if it's suddenly happened go back and check your clutch etc..what springs are you running?the 7 ports like 1.1 springs..they bog dreadfully with clutches that engage too early then you lean and lean the bottom end trying to get it to accelerate properly.(from experience ) and bugger your tune completely!

If it's run crap for 2/1/2 gallons you get a gold star for patience and a slap around the head for leaving it so long..

Ok well I'd go back to needles flush.probably take the carb off and remove both needles and just blow it out to make sure the seats don't have any crap in them.reseal the carb with a touch of lucky7 or something similar when refitting , same with the pinchbolt.turn the LSN in maybe 1/2 a turn and go from there.run a couple of tanks though it rich again to heat it properly up then slowly lean the LSN till the takeoff is crisp.. only touch the HSN just to get that final snap at WOT, and then only 1 hour at a time.Don't forget if you lean the HSN you might have to richen the LSN a touch..and I mean a touch.
grizz1 has a great long needle tuning paragraph on his GO NZealand website..

Changed my clutch to answer rc alum long life low wear with 1.1 springs,
Have kept retuning the engine from flush as the tune isn't right, mostly due to changing restricters, air temps and using different tracks,
have had the engine with good top end with no bottom and visa versa but always with the plug issue, I have used 11 plugs in 2 1/2 gallon now.
One of the main reasons for retuning though is kind people help tune it, first they up the idle then tune it by leaning the top end about 2 turns in, I know this isn,t right but hate to bash kind offers, engine runs reasonably well but blows plugs, cuts and just isn't the powerful engine i keep being told it is supposed to be so set back to flush and try again when they leave.
Would really like to be able to crack this tuning melarchy as I get bad quals all the time and loose 2 many laps in finals, I know i am faster than what results im getting but obviously loose 2 much time with cuts, was 2/3 of a lap ahead last sun but ended up 5th after 3 cuts, drives me mad.
Have tried to use Griz paragraph but sometimes the LSN needs to go in 2 1/2 to 3 turns to get the engine to cut out between 5 - 7 secs. when on the track and hot it bogs?