I am a Comp Heat fan obviously, but I understand those looking for a cheaper option. The only other way I would do it is with a heat gun. All this other ways will eventually cost more than the Comp Heat Heater. It will last for many years if handled properly. The Fan light Bulb idea concerns me?? The Fan? The Bulb? and casing look fragile, not to mention bulky. I just think in the long run, the Comp Heater will be less frustration and easy to use. I do not want to be at a race and have the fan die, bulb go bad etc. Not to mention, Comp heat is a no brainer to use, just plug it in a walk away.

The heat guns and "Bullet Fan" have to chance of over-heating and possibly ruin the seals and o-rings in the motor/carb.

I just think the cheapest route is to buy the best the first time Comp Heat does something the fans and hair dryers can't do also and that is allow the heat to spread internally into the motor and not just heat the head or exterior. There is reason the Pro's are BUYING (Not being given to) the Comp heater

There is a way to do everything. Pro's and people with money can afford the convienence of doing something easier. I would love a hudy break in stand, but a spare chassis/fuel tank and a prop does the same thing, just gotta use your imagination and do it. i wish i could i buy brand new sleeves instead of pinching them.

I would love an engine warmer, but for the forseable future it looks like the heat gun for me. My next thing up is i need to replace my axles, then tires and shock springs, then body and so on.

but it does look killer and would love to have one. And if i had the money i would.

buy hey, feel free to give me one! I promise to tell everyone how good it is! I will even put one of those stupid magnets on my truck

http://www.rctech.net/forum/exclusiv...ure-start.html

i emailed the guy and there are pics on this thread.

So how much does this cost?

I just do not think 150 degrees is warm enough. All the engine guru's I have spoken with say atleast 200 degrees.

There is other advantages to the Comp Heat that I do not see possible with the Sure Start. The cover is insulated and it is awesome for the break in bench. How well does this other heater work when the engine is running? Again, it looks to easy to break if it is droped. And there are several mechanical parts that could break.

The technology in Eric's heater is what all the 1-1 scale teams use, nobody uses a blow dryer. It also has a insulated cover that will keep the motor warm once un-plugged for the trip to the drivers stand.

I do not want to start an arguement here at all!!!!!!, that is not my intention. But I just see to many problems with the Sure Start.

I just think if you could try the Comp Heater, you would never consider anything else. You guys have some great cars and equipment. One BCE chassis is the cost of the heater, and the heater will last for years. So skip a BCE once and you have a free heater

Good Luck with however you go.

36euros.

i would be all over the comp heater.. i like the design of the comp heater alot better aswell. however 2 problems.
1. they dont have a .12 size out yet
2. id much prefer if they made a 12v version. there is no AC power at my track unless it is race day, and id like to preheat my engine before practises, and breaking in new engines at the track etc.

other alternative is to buy a 12v hair drier.. which will cost be about the same.

I do agree w the 12v, it would be nice to have the option. I know it is in the works, but I do not know how long until it is in producion.

Let us know which way you go and how it turns out.

they better hurry and release a .12 version with 12v we got a bunch of .12 boys waiting lol.

You can use our Comp heater with 12 volt, all you need is an inverter. I purchased one that is very small, compact, and inexpensive (20 usd) and works awesome with our heater. As far as the .12 engine heaters, we are working on them but we will never rush to bring a product to market. What alot of the Mcgiver types (which is fine) do not understand is the amount of R@D and time and money we put into developing our product. If our product was, and is so simple, surely someone would have come up with it years ago. Like most great products, there are certain formula's that make it work. Competition Heat is always looking at way's to improve our product and to bring new products to market. Our focus is none other than being the leader and company R/C racers look to for pre heating their racing engines.

Hello guys,

My names John and im the guy behind the Sure-Start which is a brand new product to the market, it’s so new in fact the first 20 units are only shipping to the first batch of customers tomorrow!

Couple of point in the Sure-Starts defense, it can get to way over 150f if you want things hotter, If you are willing to wait a little longer than five minutes it can get the engine over 200F. Five minutes in my opinion is the bench mark as most racers don’t want to wait around for 10 - 15 minutes before starting as it would mean it just simply wouldn’t get used most of the time.. In comparison tests with other competitor’s products it outperforms it and runs on 12V. Im also testing on a 3 cell Lipo now


At the moment the Sure-Start is available on two size casing, small and Large and at the moment is targeted for 1/8th off-road engines, however there is no reason why I cannot produce a dedicated .12 size if the demand is there as all casing are interchangeable.

Thanks

John

Lambchops, good luck with your product. It always good to see new ideas.

It is just apples and oranges here. Replacement Bulbs? Different tubes for different .21 engines. By the time you buy the unit, a couple tubes and a replacement bulb your over $100.00, and then you still have to buy more bulbs over time. How long does a bulb last? How long does the fan last? How much testing was done on these units. Can they be dropped?

You mentioned that most racers do not wait 15 minutes. That is where you are ging wrong. We have been using these heater all year now, and racers put them on up to 20-30 mins ahead. If I am racing or pitting a main, I just plug the heater in and go, it could be 15-30 min, it does not matter. Pre-Heating is what it is, it is temp, not time. There are just some things you are missing here since you have not been doing real world tests.

Good Luck to ya!

Hi Kal,

Ive been using a similar prototype unit for just under a year, this was so successful and had so many people asking if I could make one for them this is why ive now started this venture

Ive never had a bulb blow or a fan fail in the prototype and the components used in the production units are higher quality.

The casing is stainless steel so you can bet its strong, you could stand on it and it wouldnt break! Ive dropped mine many times, the bulb is very secure and protected so wont break if dropped. The paint used is powder coat so is also very tough

I understand what you are saying about pre-heating times, perhaps us 1/8th off-road guys as just a little more rushed. There is no need to leave the sure-start fitted for 20-30 mins, the maximum time you would need to reach 200F is 12 mins, (220F is about the units max temp).

Thanks

John

No point arguing who's the best here... The proof of the pudding is in the eating... Why not let actual users decide which is the best here?

Any great products are backed up by huge numbers of fans/followers, there is no need for you to be defensive if it is good...

My $0.02

Ive just finished recording a video of the sure-start in action! Will post a link when i have it pubished

Follow this .
see this post I have a link and some pics of one I made.
Pre Heating Engine
Look for the replies by me Redvet79
Hope this helps.