It can be converted to a M chassis, there are a few conversions around
Its just a matter of the a hunk out of the middle & fitting mini suspension arms.(more or less-)

Hi there.
I'm putting a M05Pro together(still no locking hex-hubs!! I thought this was a high end version)

Ive never figured out the servo saver. Are all 3 springs supposed to go in it??
Is it even needed. with all 3 springs it seems almost solid. Im sure something else will give out before can do its 'saving' job ?? (did on my M03, ripped out ball connector)

I hate to ask about servos here again, but Is a Futaba 3003 good enough??
I'd rather used my spare Spektrum(JR??) servo, but none of the Tamiya servo parts fit its spline- any ideas on how to use a Spektrum servo ??
cheers

I just purchased a M03R with hopups but no electronics. I'm also in need of some advice on what type of servo, ESC, battery to purchase for this car. I plan to race at the TCS events so my search criteria would only include items that are TCS legal.

Thanks in advance for the help and advice.

-John

You use all 3 spring clips otherwise the steering will wander under load. 2 gold on the inside and the black on the outside. It is supposed to be near solid. It is designed as a "servo saver" . It saves the servo gears from being stripped when under extreme load (a crash or hit)

Ill take it for $20.00 P.m. me.

What exactly is the advantage of locking hexes? I've used them and never saw any advantage. In fact I've gone back to the regular plastic ones because they're lighter and the aluminum ones were a hassle to remove when it came time to service the bearings.

With locking hexes, when you take the wheel off the hex stays on the car instead of stuck in the wheel.

GMP makes some nice aluminum hex adapters because they have a machined cut in them so they adjust to any wheel.

^ You mean GPM. By the way, Tamiya USA has the original Alfa Romeo wheels that you are looking for.

over time the plastic hexes can deform and bind on the axels and bearings. when the plastic ones are new and fresh, they are fine. but after cranking down on the wheel nut or crashing a bunch of times, they can actually touch the shields on the bearings causing them to drag which hinders top speed and causes uneeded motor heat. I once rebuilt my drivetrain 2 times wondering why it wasn't as free as other people's minis (I'd see it on the straight using matched 15k motors, even swapped motors for 1 qualifier). It turned out to be the dang gone plastic wheel nuts. changed them to the aluminum hexes and never had the problem again.

You can get aluminum hexes that are not locking. I have some Tamiya ones and they are very good. I'm sorry I don't have the part number.

Here's something new. The first (that I know of) of the Li-Fe packs that will fit into a Mini. 6.6v and 30c. Are these the future? Who knows...



And, some more pics of the Spice phat Toyota Starlet.

nothing worse than the plastic hex coming off with the wheel & the small pin falling out never to be found again.
Plastic ones also can deform , making wheel hard to fit on/take off.

I bought some 3racing locking hex's a while back. I have yet to find ANY rc car that they actually will clamp down on.
Luckily I some some spare locking hex's I can use on the mini
(Come on Tamiya, would only have cost beggr all to include them)

Some hexes are just a bit open in the split in the hex. Try squeezing the hex shut with a pair of pliers. I did that to some hexes and problem solved. They now fit perfectly

Tony

There are quite a few LIFE packs around that will fit Minis

Intellect make some ... including a 9.9 volt one. They go very well with the 9.9 volts

That Eagle Pack looks very much like the Intellect one