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Old 06-08-2010 | 11:43 AM
  #7681  
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Originally Posted by l3asher
I sure wish a LIFe pack would fit in the battery box. One over 1300 that is.
it really isnt a big deal to cut the top...honestly you possible could heat the top up some way and mold it around the battery..the battery isnt that much bigger

Last edited by reggie l.; 06-08-2010 at 12:00 PM.
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Old 06-08-2010 | 11:54 AM
  #7682  
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Originally Posted by reggie l.
it really isnt a big deal to cut the box...honestly you possible could heat the top up some way and mold it around the battery..the battery isnt that much bigger
Hmmm now you have me thinking about heating the box. I will give it a shot and see what happens.
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Old 06-08-2010 | 12:00 PM
  #7683  
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Originally Posted by l3asher
Hmmm now you have me thinking about heating the box. I will give it a shot and see what happens.
theres nothing wrong with the box..its the top..thats all..try it i would have but i didnt have the time..but it isnt that a big deal to kut it either... i only cut it in the rear so no dirt really gets in
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Old 06-08-2010 | 12:31 PM
  #7684  
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Originally Posted by randystang
your right but this track was super tacky and the 2.5's made it stay flatter and more stable, sections of the track i could corner wfo and pull through them, one 180 turn in a tight section got me if i had to slow for traffic i couldnt rotate and i had the horrid turn radius and push, wish i could keep the onpower and get back some offpower what would be the best compromise?
Short ackerman, shorter rear camber links and thinner sway bars. Short ackerman will kill some on-power but give you a ton more off power. Shorter rear links and thinner sway bars will allow more chassis roll and help with off power steering. First thing I would try is the ackerman. It may be just what you need.
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Old 06-08-2010 | 12:37 PM
  #7685  
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Originally Posted by bobbyblaze
my advice is to look at common sense lipo battery its 1750mah, perfect size with no mod to battery box.. i had mine for 3years almost since my jammin days ...it also give you for the regulator too so check it out
Which one is the common sense lipo? I had the Losi lipo with the regulator, and still had issues, with the regulator. The life pack is a no brainer, if you do not have to run high volt servos, they are safer than lipos, they do not loose charge while sitting idle, and you still get tons of run time, over a NiMH.
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Old 06-08-2010 | 01:38 PM
  #7686  
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Originally Posted by reggie l.
i had one..but i let it get too low and i can get the life batts for 25bucks even..no regulater, no other bs really...ehh why not?

is it that big of a deal? lol
I don't us a reg but I love the hv servos not no futaba radio here (the lipo issue was the only thing that kept me from getting a futaba) I do find the lipos to be a little bit more finicky but the power is constant no drop off and they run all day. I usually still charge before the mainfor INS but lipos are great.
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Old 06-08-2010 | 02:24 PM
  #7687  
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Originally Posted by aznitronut
Which one is the common sense lipo? I had the Losi lipo with the regulator, and still had issues, with the regulator. The life pack is a no brainer, if you do not have to run high volt servos, they are safer than lipos, they do not loose charge while sitting idle, and you still get tons of run time, over a NiMH.
it the reciever pack 1750 it on there website and ebay
right now im not using high voltage servos but i use this battery pack in all cars just got one for my dm-1
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Old 06-08-2010 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY
Short ackerman, shorter rear camber links and thinner sway bars. Short ackerman will kill some on-power but give you a ton more off power. Shorter rear links and thinner sway bars will allow more chassis roll and help with off power steering. First thing I would try is the ackerman. It may be just what you need.
i run links in low outer hole and b on hub, wont thinner sway's hurt onpower too, but give more traction. will the short ackerman make the steering twitchy
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Old 06-08-2010 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by randystang
i run links in low outer hole and b on hub, wont thinner sway's hurt onpower too, but give more traction. will the short ackerman make the steering twitchy
Why don't you try it and tell us? I've pretty much told you everything I would be doing in your situation. Try it.

Lower outer and B is fine for the rear links. As I said, I would NEVER run that thick of a sway bar. Ackerman will make steering more responsive. Not sure about twitchy because that is personal preference. It would take a lot for a truggy to feel twitchy to me. I don't feel that way with the short ackerman.

Honestly dude, I have given you some advice as to where to start. You're just going to have to try it.
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Old 06-08-2010 | 03:58 PM
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I've had poor luck with losi lipos, 1 swelled, 1 the lead came loose inside pack, I think the pack is too big for the box. Also running a reg sucks, I'm back to nimhs.
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Old 06-08-2010 | 09:12 PM
  #7691  
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First day out with the 8t 2.0. After driving the d8t, I have to re-learn how to drive this thing. It has soooooooooooooo much steering it's not even real. When i first got to the track, I had some push, changed the diff oil in the front since it was low. Put some 7k in. I got pretty OK with the d8t, I completely suck with the losi since it has a TOOOONnnnnnnnnnnn more steering. It is completely not even close to funny. I am amazed. Put it this way, this thing has more on power steering the the d8t ever did, on or off power. I love this truck. She is in dire need of a new body, then she'll be a sexy bitch.
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Old 06-08-2010 | 09:54 PM
  #7692  
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Originally Posted by Frank L
I don't us a reg but I love the hv servos not no futaba radio here (the lipo issue was the only thing that kept me from getting a futaba) I do find the lipos to be a little bit more finicky but the power is constant no drop off and they run all day. I usually still charge before the mainfor INS but lipos are great.
your right lifes do have a drop off compaired to lipo..but the drop off wont go below 6.6..when fully charged its like 3.45 in each cell so like a total of 6.9 if not 7v..its enough to be fine all day.. ive ran it for a 1hr and 30min of prac and 3 5min quals 2weeks ago..1st time out with the batt it needs 20 charges to be broken in..and that day it droped to like 6.6v and it charged for 30min and was fine... if i just run 3 quals and charge it it may take 10min to be ready for a main..and it doesnt discharge while pluged in..so why not try it?

it does have a drop off like i said but if you charge it before a main just liek you do your lipos any way, you wont even notice it!
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Old 06-08-2010 | 11:33 PM
  #7693  
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Anyone know if Proline will release bow-ties for the VTR 4.0 soon? I'd really like an XTR compound in the new tires. For some reason the XTR compound really suits my driving style. I don't see them on Prolines website yet. Please, oh please, oh please. LOL.
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Old 06-09-2010 | 03:45 AM
  #7694  
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could anyone please tell me the pros and cons of using a center smart diff thanks heaps

Last edited by Jeno; 06-09-2010 at 03:57 AM.
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Old 06-09-2010 | 07:01 AM
  #7695  
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Originally Posted by air8
Anyone know if Proline will release bow-ties for the VTR 4.0 soon? I'd really like an XTR compound in the new tires. For some reason the XTR compound really suits my driving style. I don't see them on Prolines website yet. Please, oh please, oh please. LOL.
have not heard of it, I know the LHS are having a hard time getting crimefighters and bowties, so i take it they are discontinued.
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