Use 80amp for 4s, 150amp for 5-6s application.

These esc will run cool. I m racing both.with 4168 n 4274 motors both are 4 poles.

I'm about to place my order. Do I want the programming card for $8 or the lcd box for $24? Did I read somewhere that you can plug the ESC into a computer directly with a USB cable and not need either?

I don't what what the LCD does over the regular card but the regular card is doing me fine.

check this out, it's on the works but will get there: www.kyrcrc.com.

KUDOS to Jason.

The LCD programmer can update the esc software.

You need the LCD box to connect the esc to the PC, can't do it directly. Check out hobbywing.com for more info, you can even download the manuals to their products there.

+1

Jason and the guys are doing a great job with both the onroad and corr truck class.

Hi All,

I think I may have fried my 80A Hobbywing esc. It's the older ( larger ) one.

I was racing two weeks ago when I lost all forward / brake functions. The steering still worked. Took it back to the pits and found it was hard to roll on the table...took out the motor, it was harder than usual to turn by hand..fried right.

Slight high heat/burnt smell from the motor / esc

All lights and fan work on the esc.

Tested the esc last night just by holding the wires on a 1/10 scale 10.5T motor. Hit the throttle, motor spun up no problem.

Just wired up a loaner motor ( Thanks Kevin T ) and it won't work.

When I turn the esc on the light flashes 4 times ( 4 cells ) but I hear no beeps. ???

Try the throttle and the motor just twitches.

Any ideas?? Is it toast?

I had something like this happen to my tekin setup, it turned out to be a short in the motor. When the motor gets hot the short begins to show itself, the motor becomes very hard to turn, like the breaks are on. I went through 3 RX8's before figuring this out. the first thing that you will notice with a motor short is that your motor temps will begin to rise out of the blue. The only way that i know of to fix this is to send it back to the manufacturer.

if you hook up the speed controller but don't connect it to the motor you probably wont hear any chimes from the esc because the esc uses the motor as a speaker. If you listen very closely you may be able to hear the esc chime without the motor.

Hope this helps

What was the temp of the esc n motor at that time? Most of the time u could just fried the motor. If it's 176 or around there as it's a older 2 pole motor.

As for the esc if it has burnt smell or doesn't work it could be the cap or fets are burnt.

The only way is to test with another motor n if it doesn't work most prob it's fried.

They make a larger one?

Well, I ordered the 25A ESC, the Tacon 4200kv motor, program card and a 2200mah 7.4V Li-Po pack $55 total with shipping Should make my RC18b/t fly. I hope these are as decent as people say they are. I ordered from HobbyPartz not Hobby King so I sould get it in a week instead of 3 months.

Not to rain on your parade, but perhaps you should lower your expectations as I used to run 3 brushless RC18 variants, from my experience one would need a 3S on a 4200kv motor to make an RC18 really fast where it's just near uncontrollable.

4200Kv on 2S would be significantly faster than stock but nowhere near a 6000kv or even a 5400kv motor.

I'm racing on dirt. Uncontrollable is NOT what I want.

Thanks for the info, i'll be running a 4s so looks like i just need to place the order now !