you may have the .2mm break in shim still in place. If so remove it. set the lsn and the hsn both to flush. Then turn hsn in 1/2 turn and lsn 1 full turn and adjust from there. also make sure your idle gap is set at roughly .1mm and if you decide you don't want the engine let me know.

LOL No shim is out.I'll try settings and post results.
thanks gosharpie97.

Tune it so it's running strong with good smoke and leave the temp gauge in the tool box.
It will run at the temp it is happy at, and all motors are a little different. You need to be tuning the motor so it performs well, not so it runs at a specific temp or temp range. From what you are saying it is too lean on top - hence the bogging and fuel starvation, plus the blown plugs maybe.
Set your needles as Matt has suggested and then tweak the bottom end first, then the top for max performance and leave that temp gauge in the tool box

What shims are in it, you should have one siver and one or two thin .1mm brass. also does it have the long or the short low speed needle?

Rex

I had flame out problems with the Nova plugs, they might work if you just ran one silver and one .1 mm brass.

Rex

Here's a sort vid of Kendall at the Mnrc round 2 last weekend. Kendall's Go 5 ports ran awesome, lots of people were having tuning issues with the sand and high temps and humidity. Kendall won Buggy, Truggy and Short Course.

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1291732262378

Rex

Like Rex says, the Nova plugs suck. Hell, they don't
run right in the Nova engines either. If you don't believe
me. Ask the Nova guru on this site why he won't run the
Nova plugs and doesn't sugest running them in the Nova
engines he sells.

after 3 days at the track I found that these engine ( 7 port in my case) runs cool.
At 20c weather on a race tune I cant get it past 230F even if its running extremely lean.
My LRP .28 on the other hand runs rich at 260ish.

how do I check if I have the long or short needle?
I am assuming mines long because its sitting at 5 1/5 turns out.

Take a look down the carb throat and open the throttle slide right up till it meets the far edge of the restrictor.
If the needle is tapered to a point and still remains in the receiver jet opening at this throttle position - you have the long needle.
If the needle withdraws from the reciever jet at around 3/4 WOT and has a rounded tip, then you have the shorter needle.

Shorter needle will tune like most other carbs. Longer needle is quite different and requires the HSN adjusting screw to be pretty much flush with the brass tube it sits in. For details on long needle carb tuning visit the tech tips page on our web site at www.go-racing.co.nz - you will find a step by step guide to getting the long needle carb tuned in there, if thats what you have fitted.

See pics below for different needle comparison. Pics are not to scale, but the long needle (tapered tip) on the left is 1.6" long and short needle (bull nosed tip) on the right is 1.42" long.

The long and short needle actually sit about the same number of turns in from flush or out from fully closed. The big difference is the position of the HSN needle because of the effect of the longer needle staying in the receiver jet up to full throttle. You need a much richer HSN to allow enough fuel past the low speed needle at WOT than with the short needle which clears the receiver jet completely. With the long needle, once you have the HSN set you rarely need to touch it, as the bottom needle controls the fuel mixture from idle right up to WOT, so once you have the HSN set right the carb basically operates as a one needle carb, if that makes sense.
If you reference your needles as turns in from flush - rather than turns out from fully screwed in, you won't run the risk of screwing them in too tightly and damaging the tips of the needles. Just a thought

b/c they may not work in Go engines doesnt mean they suck. They are a VERY high quality plug and work great in Novas.

Not to take away from GO at all. I actually really want to try one of the newest ones.

Sorry if I hurt your feelings Ryan. I was just relating
my opinion of the Nova plugs. Also what was said to
me by one of the top Nova gurus in the U.S.of A..
I have tried running them in Nova,RB,MR,O.S.,GO,
Picco and JL nitro engines. I just don't care for them.
I also usualy run a colder plug that most do in there engines
and consider my self a pretty good tuner.
Some of the guys on here are having trouble getting
there engines dialed in and I just don't think a Nova
plug is going to help make it any easier for them.

if the nova pro's won't use them why would u bother !!! that's why we are here on the forum sharing imfo so we can have more fun at the track & not all have the same problems over & over again. brand loyalty means nothing if it means you don't get to have fun at the track. i have tried most brands of plugs & the 1 stand out has been the o'donnells, & as it turns out they are nearly the cheapest here in aus ! JMO

has anyone tried the new version of the GO 6T plug ?

Oh, my feelings arent hurt. Simply stating my experiences. Ive ran plenty of novas and never have once had a plug run better in one then the nova plugs. Maybe its just me? Ive also never seen any other plug reccomended, maybe im talking to the wrong pro's.

With that said, it is very possible (and obviously so) that the GO motors dont like those plugs and run better on something else. Maybe i'll order one and find out!